3 transformers, 5 power supplies. One ground connection, isolated from the chassis, connected to the cd player via a thick jumper.
I'd do it all a bit differently if I did it again. For example, I'd keep the power supplies simpler with just a single cap or two, and I'd go for all toroids or better (R-core etc.) to avoid the hum. The small frame tx in there hums a bit.
I'd probably not even bother with the external box if I could start anew. The big transformers do sound good, but the gains are probably lost in the extra wiring required. I did it as I knew I'd not be able to realistically fit many psus on the CD63 chassis.
There's a slightly odd noise problem, which only arises when nothing else is plugged into the preamp (such as my sound card). It's not an earth loop in the obvious sense, but something weird is happening. I'm going to remove two of those supplies (leftmost in the picture) and upgrade them to ones using a small toroid, HEXFRED diodes and 4700uF BHC caps, all mounted inside the player. It should be better. And perhaps it's bad to have off-board clock supplies (causing the noise?)
Simon
I'd do it all a bit differently if I did it again. For example, I'd keep the power supplies simpler with just a single cap or two, and I'd go for all toroids or better (R-core etc.) to avoid the hum. The small frame tx in there hums a bit.
I'd probably not even bother with the external box if I could start anew. The big transformers do sound good, but the gains are probably lost in the extra wiring required. I did it as I knew I'd not be able to realistically fit many psus on the CD63 chassis.
There's a slightly odd noise problem, which only arises when nothing else is plugged into the preamp (such as my sound card). It's not an earth loop in the obvious sense, but something weird is happening. I'm going to remove two of those supplies (leftmost in the picture) and upgrade them to ones using a small toroid, HEXFRED diodes and 4700uF BHC caps, all mounted inside the player. It should be better. And perhaps it's bad to have off-board clock supplies (causing the noise?)
Simon
For the clock you need a really quiet psu.
You can use a regular psu if you use one spower to feed the clock.
I am using the same very quiet psu to feed both DAC and SERVO clocks.
Maybe I will upgrade for a isolated psu for the servo clock...
But now I believe the best mod will be the discrete output with four spowers...... Unfortunately this is now postponed because of the costs involved.
With the help of some good friends, I am going to upgrade my Meridian 103 PSU with new caps and maybe have a go at the 101 itself.
Note:
In the 101, the Tape input has a little less gain than the Tuner "buffered" input but the later sounds so much better.....
Ricardo
You can use a regular psu if you use one spower to feed the clock.
I am using the same very quiet psu to feed both DAC and SERVO clocks.
Maybe I will upgrade for a isolated psu for the servo clock...
But now I believe the best mod will be the discrete output with four spowers...... Unfortunately this is now postponed because of the costs involved.
With the help of some good friends, I am going to upgrade my Meridian 103 PSU with new caps and maybe have a go at the 101 itself.
Note:
In the 101, the Tape input has a little less gain than the Tuner "buffered" input but the later sounds so much better.....
Ricardo
Hi SimonSimontY said:
Thank you for the pic.... I did enjoy this work because I had the same idea before.
I managed to locate three TX inside the player plus the stock one.
The fifth TX is outside, fixed in the back plate.
I have no hum problems.... The sound is incredible as is.
Regards
Ricardo
Hi SimonSimontY said:
With age I learned that patience is a virtue.... And a good returning one.
If I wait and think it over for a while, the possible damages due to need for improvisation are reduced by a large margin.... That is why I took almost 4 weeks to place the clocks.... planing planing
About your MKV caps, could you send me some relevant info ? I always love a good cap.
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Well they're not designed for audio. I think they're motor-run caps. They're made by Epcos, sourced from Lee on here and the type is MKV, which I think is polypropylene in oil. The can is bare metal and has an M8 screw terminal for chassis mounting.
The value is 3.3uF at 600VAC. -25 to +85C, made in Germany. Very large and heavy.
The sound is clean and clear with no harshness and absolutely no bass boom. There might even be a loss of bass, but I'm not 100% sure how much yet. The sound is always controlled and accurate. It's not much different to no cap (as tested in my preamp, which doesn't really need a coupling cap).
That's everything I know!
Simon
CD output
Thank you Simon.
After a nice e-mail from Ray, I understand that a DC offset in the output of the CDP of 10mV is accepted (measured at stop).
I am a bit worried because I measured 25mV in such circunstances. (I removed the output caps long ago and I had no issues)
As my pre amp does not have any input caps, can this be an issue ?
Am I inadvertently stressing the buffer inside the pre amp ?
Regards
Ricardo
Thank you Simon.
After a nice e-mail from Ray, I understand that a DC offset in the output of the CDP of 10mV is accepted (measured at stop).
I am a bit worried because I measured 25mV in such circunstances. (I removed the output caps long ago and I had no issues)
As my pre amp does not have any input caps, can this be an issue ?
Am I inadvertently stressing the buffer inside the pre amp ?
Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo
Good news yet again on the improvements that can be had
The black blobs are black hot glue. It is much better than clear or white, it does not go brittle and has a kind of silicon feel and grip about it once set. Also when lifting the glue off it does not lift any tracks of take any effort.
Brent
Good news yet again on the improvements that can be had
The black blobs are black hot glue. It is much better than clear or white, it does not go brittle and has a kind of silicon feel and grip about it once set. Also when lifting the glue off it does not lift any tracks of take any effort.
Brent
jimh0612 said:
Hi Jim. Do you mean the cat5? It was two runs with all the stripes twisted together and all the colours twisted together. The two lengths were then also twisted together.
In fact, it is still in use on the bass/mid drivers temporarily until my quality links get here for my speakers, I think I found it on TNT Audio.
I did get a good improvement using Kimber 4tc instead of the Cat5 though.
In the next month or so I will be getting some woven stuff similar to Kimber to try. If it's good I will stock some for sale.
Lee.
Hi Lee
Yeah, I was talking about the cat5.
I used to install networks using cat5e, so I've got some lying about.
Checking Ray's site he gives instructions for 4 lengths bonded with cable ties along the lengths, then heatshrink at the terminations into 4mm banana plugs - photos show his usual immaculate work!!
However heatshrink along the whole run would look good but probably cost a fortune.
The conductors could be stripped out and woven similar to KImber, I think I've seen something like that done with wire wrap wire? (if that makes sense??)
Jim
Yeah, I was talking about the cat5.
I used to install networks using cat5e, so I've got some lying about.
Checking Ray's site he gives instructions for 4 lengths bonded with cable ties along the lengths, then heatshrink at the terminations into 4mm banana plugs - photos show his usual immaculate work!!
However heatshrink along the whole run would look good but probably cost a fortune.
The conductors could be stripped out and woven similar to KImber, I think I've seen something like that done with wire wrap wire? (if that makes sense??)
Jim