Ok I checked some more stuff and found a few bad solder joints and fixed them, now its no longer blowing fuses but i still have the problem with the laser and the disk spinning fast, any ideas on this?? Its driving me nuts! I get error clode 12. Now ive replaced the servo chip and all three opamps in the servo section. I donno what it could be. Simon didnt yyou have a similar problem at one point???
thanks
thanks
disco said:
Then it should be the RC, 1M + C523 to gnd that performs somekind of termination of the outpus aswell as pin13 - well it surely does.
But I rather leave it by itself than polluting my clock with the "input+output whatever the signals sums to" from the decoder onto my fine Tentclock
It's playing now and it will for the next - hmm, day? 
imperfectcircle said:
You're welcome Frank.
The sled status is tested by the microprocessor (MN187164). A problem is reported by this IC.
Pin 24 of Servo IC (TDA1301T) carries the Sled Output and goes to Q105 (TCA0372, Sled Motor).
Because you exchanged the transport which carries the sled motor, it's likely Q105 is blown. I'm no expert in digital repair, so it's only an educated guess.
Try replacing both R127 and R128 (4.7/0.25W). If no success try replacing C134, C135 and C138.
A couple of months ago Brent reported TCA0372 are hard to get. If you are lucky you might succeed repairing your own player... There might be more damage but it's always worth the try.
Regards, Jaap
imperfectcircle said:
Has your 10V rail the correct voltage?
If so, something inside the Q105 circuit is drawing too much current. Could be a capacitor gone bad because of the short.
If your 10V rail is low, there is another problem elsewhere.
Check all caps hanging on the 10V rail, including the big reservoirs.
Check for uncommon heat in ICs and 0.25W resistors.
Ok replaced the caps and resistors around q105 and I know have correct +-10v. But there is still a problem, the disk tray shoots out and will not go back in and the disk motor just spins. Iwhatr does the -18 regulator control? because its voltages dont seem correct either. I get something like -6v and -24v on the input and out put. very strange stuff ehre. Any one here in NY that can take a look at it???r
I FIXED IT!!! WOOOHOOO!! Shoot now I hope i dont win that one im bidding on ebay!
This is the first time ive been able to troubleshoot and actually fix something using the schematic. I tracked it down to two bad feed resistors they were reading 500m ohms or something crazy like that. i replaced them and its working fine now!!! Words cant describbe how happy I am right now, what a good fweeling it is to fix something yourself!!
Thanks to everyone who helped me!!
This is the first time ive been able to troubleshoot and actually fix something using the schematic. I tracked it down to two bad feed resistors they were reading 500m ohms or something crazy like that. i replaced them and its working fine now!!! Words cant describbe how happy I am right now, what a good fweeling it is to fix something yourself!!
Thanks to everyone who helped me!!
Yup I definitly learned a thing or two First lesson dont give up so fast when your cd player dies
I just installed the regulator board for the dac/decoder and the player is sounding real nice. One thing I notice about this player is that it had plenty of detail but is still smooth sounding it does lack a bit in the speed and timing department though, maybe when i add an upgraded clock it will take care of this?
First lesson dont give up so fast when your cd player dies I just installed the regulator board for the dac/decoder and the player is sounding real nice. One thing I notice about this player is that it had plenty of detail but is still smooth sounding
it does lack a bit in the speed and timing department though, maybe when i add an upgraded clock it will take care of this?
imperfectcircle said:...
I just installed the regulator board for the dac/decoder and the player is sounding real nice. One thing I notice about this player is that it had plenty of detail but is still smooth sounding
PREVIOUS POST:
Power Supply:
-c803/804 2200/35 Pana FC+.1uf film
-c806/806 1500/16 Pana FC+.1uf
-c813 4700/16 FC+1uf
-c814 3300/16v FC+.1uf
-c815 4700/6.3 FC+.1uf
-D801-804 11dq10 Schottky
-D811-814 11dq10 Schottky
-Choke + .47uf X2 cap on AC input
-Chokes+feritte beads on all power feed resistors
Analogue Stage:
-Opamp AD827 + 4x1000uf FC+.1uf wima
-all caps in filter stage are 1% polystyrene
-all resistors are .1% Dale RN55
-removed muting transistors
-removed output caps
Digital section:
-"Clock Hack"
-.1uf smd XR7 caps on power pins of Dac/Decoder
all decoupling caps replaced with Rubycon ZL/ZA+.1uf smd XR7
Mechanical:
-damped transport and chassis with bitumen
-bottom plate sandwhich of two sheets of aluminum plate(1/8in) with foam damping sheet in between
-adjustable cone feet
A 'faster' reproduction could be obtained from the outputstage (opamps). Did you try a dedicated psu for +/-12V? We're talking tens of mA's so no need for brute force electrolytics here. Put the supply straight at the opamp pins, decoupled with 100 to 220uF quality caps, or bypassed lesser quality.
A superclock with its own psu will bring up the best from this player. You'll love it!
Further mods can be a starground and shielding of the RF lines. The effect will be somewhat less obvious: blackness of background, tranquillity of reproduction and more subtile highs. Very worthwile but it needs some skill to implement.