Malefoda said:
No really, I mean what I say.
I'm a tube amp builder and enjoy simple effective measures to tackle a problem as heat building up. There exists a strange phenomenon people are afraight to show some extravagance.
http://www.electronluv.com/index.html
imperfectcircle said:Audiocom "superregs" are $75 a piece here in the US, and audiocom wont sell the ebay regs to the US I asked already
I can get these "discrete regulators" from Burson audio for about $18 each.
burson regulator
Or there complete power supply for about $85
buron ps-1
And theres a bunch of others Ive seen online at various DIY sites.
AudioDIYlab
shunt regulator
Frank,
Simply put there are two ways to build a low noise PSU. A) Avoid noise in the first place by optimizing the design for the current need. B) Build a 'high tech' solution and filter afterwards.
I got good low noise results from method A by using simple L-C filters (6mV ripple for 15mA, before low drop low noise regulator).
The Burson Super Reg is like method B. Give them a try, the story sounds OK to me. One 5V for DAC analogue, one +12 and one -12 for opamps. Maybe an extra 5V for a super clock.
Regards, Jaap
I picked up a dead CD63 KI yesterday, (for free ) from what I was told it sounded like it just needed the transport swapping out.
Well, I whipped the whole transport out of my CD63 and popped it in and its still having the same problem -> powers on, doesn't spin up. Gives me Err02 in service mode.
What I plan to do now is swap out the board from my CD63 into the KI and swap the transformers over (not only to save me having to fiddle with the KI too much but to save me having to re-do all the mods I've done to my CD63 already) (is there much difference between them other than the chassis and TX anyway?)
What I'd like to know is - can the TX from the KI be used as a simple drop-in replacement for the standard CD63. The solder points look the same so i was just going to do a straight swap.
) from what I was told it sounded like it just needed the transport swapping out.Well, I whipped the whole transport out of my CD63 and popped it in and its still having the same problem -> powers on, doesn't spin up. Gives me Err02 in service mode.
What I plan to do now is swap out the board from my CD63 into the KI and swap the transformers over (not only to save me having to fiddle with the KI too much but to save me having to re-do all the mods I've done to my CD63 already) (is there much difference between them other than the chassis and TX anyway?)
What I'd like to know is - can the TX from the KI be used as a simple drop-in replacement for the standard CD63. The solder points look the same so i was just going to do a straight swap.
mister_tad said:I picked up a dead CD63 KI yesterday, (for free
Well, I whipped the whole transport out of my CD63 and popped it in and its still having the same problem -> powers on, doesn't spin up. Gives me Err02 in service mode.
What I plan to do now is swap out the board from my CD63 into the KI and swap the transformers over (not only to save me having to fiddle with the KI too much but to save me having to re-do all the mods I've done to my CD63 already) (is there much difference between them other than the chassis and TX anyway?)
What I'd like to know is - can the TX from the KI be used as a simple drop-in replacement for the standard CD63. The solder points look the same so i was just going to do a straight swap.
The KI was alot more upgraded than a standard 63.
The KI had the same mods as the SE but that nice TX , copper chassis , and thicker bottom plate.
But if your going to mod this player dont worry about the KI bits on the pcb. The tx is a straight swap but take note where each wire goes to.
After instalation power up, if it buzzes then its wired wrong and if it gets hot something is very wrong
Brent
Anyone know the actualy specs for the cd63se vs cd53 trannies??? Ive heard the se tranny is wound with oxygen free copper or something and is slightly larger, but next to each other they look very much the same. I guess Ill swap it in just because I have it and it wont cost anything.
As for the +-12v supply, Im not sure what to do just yet. I really wanted to just get a few of the Audiocom regs from ebay for $20ea and throw them in. But Audiocom wont sell ebay items to the US and the superregs are selling for $75ea from thier US dealers!!!!!! Im thinking of building a small outboard supply for the opamps and my upgraded clock when I get it. Does it make sense to use the spare cd63se tranny for this or just buy small toriods?? Heres a kit/pcb for a dual supply im thinking about building for the opamps.
dual psu i have most of the parts so it wont cost me much to build. What do you guys think???
resounding success after an initial "oh poo" (though I may have been a bit more colourful in my language than that)
Swapped the TX over, switched on... nothing
spent a good 15 minutes staring at it trying to see the problem, finally found it and sorted it and breathed a sigh of relief as it switched on.
the link on U247 needed to be switched to U248, didnt notice this when I first put it in. Works like a treat now
SimontY - Those caps are the same on both players. I had a good look and noticed very *very* few differences in the actual PCB components
Now I have to figure out what I'm modding next
so far:
HDAM bypass
removed headphone stage
removed muting transistors
opamp socket, browndogs, opamps (having a bit of an issue deciding which ones at the moment :/ )
dampening
KI Transformer
Clock + PSU
IEC
Swapped the TX over, switched on... nothing
spent a good 15 minutes staring at it trying to see the problem, finally found it and sorted it and breathed a sigh of relief as it switched on.
the link on U247 needed to be switched to U248, didnt notice this when I first put it in. Works like a treat now
SimontY - Those caps are the same on both players. I had a good look and noticed very *very* few differences in the actual PCB components
Now I have to figure out what I'm modding next
so far:
HDAM bypass
removed headphone stage
removed muting transistors
opamp socket, browndogs, opamps (having a bit of an issue deciding which ones at the moment :/ )
dampening
KI Transformer
Clock + PSU
IEC
mister_tad said:resounding success after an initial "oh poo" (though I may have been a bit more colourful in my language than that)
Swapped the TX over, switched on... nothing
spent a good 15 minutes staring at it trying to see the problem, finally found it and sorted it and breathed a sigh of relief as it switched on.
the link on U247 needed to be switched to U248, didnt notice this when I first put it in. Works like a treat now
SimontY - Those caps are the same on both players. I had a good look and noticed very *very* few differences in the actual PCB components
Now I have to figure out what I'm modding next
so far:
HDAM bypass
removed headphone stage
removed muting transistors
opamp socket, browndogs, opamps (having a bit of an issue deciding which ones at the moment :/ )
dampening
KI Transformer
Clock + PSU
IEC
Excellent mate.
The SE and KI pcbs are the same.
I think simon meant take the caps for future use
Brent
My first post on this mammoth thread...
I recently bought a second-hand CD53, totally unmodified. The only problem is an intermittent skipping which happens on different parts of the disc each time. Thinking it was probably just a dusty lens, I cleaned it with a cotton bud (q-tip) and some distilled water. It seemed a bit better (only skipping every 5 minutes or so compared to once every minute on average). I tried to clean it up a bit more but the skipping seems to have got worse again.
Does this sound like the problem is a dirty lens or something else? Any tips on techniques for fixing it other than what I've been trying? The player smells like it's been used in a smoky environment - could this be a factor? Are there any solvents I could use to clean it? I've read up on cleaning the lens and seen some scare stories about melting them...
I've removed the muting transistors and headphone circuit, replaced the output capacitors with silver jumper wires and fitted better RCAs (again with silver wire) and the player does sound nice already, but I don't want to go to the time and expense of starting to upgrade other components unless I can fix the skipping.
Greg
I recently bought a second-hand CD53, totally unmodified. The only problem is an intermittent skipping which happens on different parts of the disc each time. Thinking it was probably just a dusty lens, I cleaned it with a cotton bud (q-tip) and some distilled water. It seemed a bit better (only skipping every 5 minutes or so compared to once every minute on average). I tried to clean it up a bit more but the skipping seems to have got worse again.
Does this sound like the problem is a dirty lens or something else? Any tips on techniques for fixing it other than what I've been trying? The player smells like it's been used in a smoky environment - could this be a factor? Are there any solvents I could use to clean it? I've read up on cleaning the lens and seen some scare stories about melting them...
I've removed the muting transistors and headphone circuit, replaced the output capacitors with silver jumper wires and fitted better RCAs (again with silver wire) and the player does sound nice already, but I don't want to go to the time and expense of starting to upgrade other components unless I can fix the skipping.
Greg
It certainly is!
Unfortunately, I just tried both of the fixes recommended in post #2575 and there's no improvement. The rod didn't appear to have any debris on it. The ribbon cable showed signs of wear where it had been clamped but wasn't really dirty.
So, do I keep trying with the lens, ribbon and rod or do I look elsewhere?
Greg
Unfortunately, I just tried both of the fixes recommended in post #2575 and there's no improvement. The rod didn't appear to have any debris on it. The ribbon cable showed signs of wear where it had been clamped but wasn't really dirty.
So, do I keep trying with the lens, ribbon and rod or do I look elsewhere?
Greg
Greg3333 said:
From my experience the laser is duff. It's been used in a smokey environment and these small particles get right into the laser. The laser voltage is automatically lifted by the servo to compensate for the smoke dust and this contributes to them burning out earlier than it should.
Brent
disco said:
I indeed like the words "sound fast", but:
If one already has bypassed the HDAMs (and unpowered them), I don't see what else using +-12V other than the opamps. So from that point of view, the +-12V is already dedicated to the opamps. And if we agree about the 78/7912 is kind of ok, if they are suppied with decent caps, what do you gain with another psu?
It totally makes sense, IF the original tranny is underpowered.
Anyway, I'll try it later today.
BTW, any one know the spec of the +-17.6V of the 63 tranny?
avr300 said:
AVR,
When feeding an opamp buffer, average current consumption will be -let's say- 30mA. For a certain transcient the instant powerneed for undistorted reproduction might be double -let's say- 60mA. This sudden increase will be consumed (most) from the psu bypass cap, which gets drained before it gets filled again by the psu. When the value of this cap is too small the music following the transcient will be distorted. When the bypass cap is too large, the PSU needs too much time to replenish it fully and the voltage at the opamp changes over a longer period of time than before.
A simple solution is getting the right size bypass and oversizing the psu by a couple of times the powerneeds. Keeping internal resistance low will allow power to the bypass cap to be delivered instantly.
It's a plus for a transformer to have good regulation to help keeping the voltage stable. If you think maintaining the voltage is solely the role of active electronics, you must remember these devices are not perfect solutions. You hear regulators work, the more busy they are the more noise on the dancefloor. All parts from tranny to the last cap play their role in the quality of a PSU. So does the first cap behind the Greatz bridge endure large currents (15 times the consumed current). The musical signal wil be put on the PSU bypass cap, each coloration because of chemicals, induction, dielectric absorbsion etc degrading the reproduction.
From manufacturers viewpoint there's little interest in building the best possible. Economics of design dictate the use of only adequate parts (when you're lucky), the tranny included.
Regards, Jaap
Hi Jaap..
Yes, nothings new to me from your post - and you don't face my point - the 12V PSU IS allready exclusive to the opamps - and if I don't get it wrong - it's more than capable of doing 60 - or even 100mA.
I'm more concerned about the standard mounted resistors that forms a RC and is feeding the 12V - the safety resistors. ex. R614. That's 10R. I know a lot of you have changed them for inductors with much lower DC res. Lets say that there not changed - then you have 10R through which you have to charge C612-C614 C611-C613. Hmm, that sounds sluggish.
I'll try to bypass those safety resistors and have a listen.
Yes, nothings new to me from your post - and you don't face my point - the 12V PSU IS allready exclusive to the opamps - and if I don't get it wrong - it's more than capable of doing 60 - or even 100mA.
I'm more concerned about the standard mounted resistors that forms a RC and is feeding the 12V - the safety resistors. ex. R614. That's 10R. I know a lot of you have changed them for inductors with much lower DC res. Lets say that there not changed - then you have 10R through which you have to charge C612-C614 C611-C613. Hmm, that sounds sluggish.
I'll try to bypass those safety resistors and have a listen.