On a lighter note I purchased a Russ Andrews Torlyte isolation platform off ebay.
All I can say is WOW. So much stereo seperation and detail right from the instance I slid it under my cd player.
This is a recommended item.
http://www.russandrews.com/product....&customer_id=PAA1703077706915FRMOKKUKRLFWOVXD
Brent
All I can say is WOW. So much stereo seperation and detail right from the instance I slid it under my cd player.
This is a recommended item.
http://www.russandrews.com/product....&customer_id=PAA1703077706915FRMOKKUKRLFWOVXD
Brent
I am messing with some regs on a CD63SE and I am happy with the result.
I purchased some smt 7805 (LM78L05ACM/NOPB) and am running these with nothing other than 4x 220uF FC for the dac and decoder.
I am finding the audio to be better than with T0220 packge ones, better seperation and timing.
Brent
I purchased some smt 7805 (LM78L05ACM/NOPB) and am running these with nothing other than 4x 220uF FC for the dac and decoder.
I am finding the audio to be better than with T0220 packge ones, better seperation and timing.
Brent
Attachments
It's indeed a bad idea to place large caps after a highly loaded transformer. Audible problems regarding attack and distortion are to be expected.imperfectcircle said:So you think maybe the 1000uf/16v caps for the opamps are slowing down the sound? Maybe ill go back to the 100uf -220uf caps. Ill have to order some I dont have any of that size left, maybe ill got with some blackgates there
The PSU has to deliver fast peaks to make your CDP sound 'fast'. In the plain CD63 the 12V PSU is quite poor. Building a beafier PSU for your opamps with a new (15-0-15@500mA) tranny, 8x Schottky's, 2x 1000uF, low drop regs and two 220uF BG's will improve reproduction. Note: 10 times more power than needed!
You probably own the standard CD63 which is equipped with a cheap tranny. Its load is calculated to run cool with the factory supplied caps. As you increase capacitance the load rises and so does the heat. Once you build new PSUs this problem is fixed by bringing back the big reservoirs to appropriate proportions.imperfectcircle said:
Brent is right, your CDP might suffer from an electrical problem. What fuses are in now?
disco said:
Cool Brent
There's only a few mA to deliver, why not. Did you put -like before- 20cm cords between your PSU and the load?
Regards, Jaap
So far all ive done is use croc leads to the relevent resistors and drop those FC caps.
I have tried each voltage rail individually and (no real suprise) the DAC analogue rail gave the biggest improvement.
Brent
I have a spare tranny from a cd63se would this be an upgrade over the one in my cd53??
The fuses are replacement stock size 1.6amp 125v. The tranny runs hot but not so hot I can touch it or anything like that. The player sounds awesome so u doubt anything severe is wrong, it could just be the hot weather weve been having its been in the mid 90's all week, even my Exposure XV integrated which is a very cool running class B design has been getting pretty hot.
dual power supply
What do you think of something like this for the opamp supply?? he sells the pcbs for about $35. It looks liek a pretty nice design with jung super regs?? Id prefer to use a proven design and buy the pcb then try and design my own from scratch. Any other pcbs or kits for a dual regulated supply?
What do you think of something like this for the opamp supply?? he sells the pcbs for about $35. It looks liek a pretty nice design with jung super regs?? Id prefer to use a proven design and buy the pcb then try and design my own from scratch. Any other pcbs or kits for a dual regulated supply?
Hi fellows,
here is what I get from some gentle workmates...
Got also more AD8620 ( friends want some ) and a ferrite for flat cables ( usefull for the player ? ).
I wanna know where to use the dampen material, first to load the mecanism ? And then the bottom of the case ?
Also I am now quite scared if I do the Ray's mods list my tranny will suffer... I own a simple CD53... is it dangerous ?
here is what I get from some gentle workmates...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Got also more AD8620 ( friends want some
) and a ferrite for flat cables ( usefull for the player ? ).I wanna know where to use the dampen material, first to load the mecanism ? And then the bottom of the case ?
Also I am now quite scared if I do the Ray's mods list my tranny will suffer... I own a simple CD53... is it dangerous ?
imperfectcircle said:
Frank,
If you feel going outboard is advantageous, go ahead. It can be fitted inside as demonstrated here a few times. The opamp specs dictate supply limits. To be on the safe side (you might want to exchange opamps) I'd stick to +/-12V.
15-0-15@500mA makes 15VA and already is an overkill
imperfectcircle said:
Well, I don't own stocks of Audicom but one +12 and one -12V superreg is less expensive than this $35 board only.
The snubbing technique interacts on the transformer properties to cancel ringing. I don't get it how one could implement this without knowing the exact properties as they vary widely.
It seems the Swedish board does not support negative rails?
That's what I think of it
Regards, Jaap
Attachments
Malefoda said:Hi fellows,
here is what I get from some gentle workmates...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Got also more AD8620 ( friends want some
I wanna know where to use the dampen material, first to load the mecanism ? And then the bottom of the case ?
Also I am now quite scared if I do the Ray's mods list my tranny will suffer... I own a simple CD53... is it dangerous ?
This black stuf, is it heavy? The idea behind damping the case is to add mass to lower its resonant frequency. Screwing in a (wooden) brace from side to side would probably do more for the thin case. Or a giant size camembert... you could fine tune it by nibbling it somewhat
The higher load presented by the bigger caps won't harm the tranny. BUT. Heating electronics over 50 degrees Celsius is disadvantageous for its trouble free operation and parts wear out faster. Your CDP will probably comfy duck this temp but it's better to be on the safe side.
This material is quite heavy (not as gold...), and it is used on some expensive machines in order to avoid vibrations and noise... my workmates stick it in the inner side of the hoods.
Machines such as this one :
http://www.datacard.com/products/products.jhtml?contentId=778245YuR3ckg6
I red in french forums that the best is the bitumen pads from under the classic bathes, as the sounds like bells if not fitted under and you can have cheap prices for some at your local dealer
I've planned to tight the case around the tranny as the SE, and maybe as you said screw a heavy iron or steel plate under. I'll manage some holes on the back panel for air cooling, something like the 67 series.
Machines such as this one
:http://www.datacard.com/products/products.jhtml?contentId=778245YuR3ckg6
I red in french forums that the best is the bitumen pads from under the classic bathes, as the sounds like bells if not fitted under and you can have cheap prices for some at your local dealer
I've planned to tight the case around the tranny as the SE, and maybe as you said screw a heavy iron or steel plate under. I'll manage some holes on the back panel for air cooling, something like the 67 series.
Malefoda said:This material is quite heavy (not as gold...), and it is used on some expensive machines in order to avoid vibrations and noise... my workmates stick it in the inner side of the hoods.
I red in french forums that the best is the bitumen pads from under the classic bathes, as the sounds like bells if not fitted under and you can have cheap prices for some at your local dealer
I've planned to tight the case around the tranny as the SE, and maybe as you said screw a heavy iron or steel plate under. I'll manage some holes on the back panel for air cooling, something like the 67 series.
It's self adhesive, that makes it easy to apply to odd places like corners or bent surfaces (underneath the transport).
If you're a skilled mechanic (I'm not unfortunately) you could think of a new hood for the CDP. One that features a chimney to get rid of heat the natural way. Would be original.
Audiocom "superregs" are $75 a piece here in the US, and audiocom wont sell the ebay regs to the US I asked already
I can get these "discrete regulators" from Burson audio for about $18 each.
burson regulator
Or there complete power supply for about $85
buron ps-1
And theres a bunch of others Ive seen online at various DIY sites.
AudioDIYlab
shunt regulator