Hello people!
First, sorry for digging up the old topic.
Well, I have a AW250R with little use of time and a three months notice a sound cuts on the left channel, it is in the first two minutes when turning on the power (cold amp), the defect occurs for about 5 seconds, then stabilizes and plays normal.
However it happened after hours system in use, it is very sporadic in this situation.
I am afraid that is an imminent default, but can be a feature of the handset, although the manual does not mention period of "start up".
I live in Brazil and we have more representation of the EC here so I'm lost on what to do.
I appreciate any help!
First, sorry for digging up the old topic.
Well, I have a AW250R with little use of time and a three months notice a sound cuts on the left channel, it is in the first two minutes when turning on the power (cold amp), the defect occurs for about 5 seconds, then stabilizes and plays normal.
However it happened after hours system in use, it is very sporadic in this situation.
I am afraid that is an imminent default, but can be a feature of the handset, although the manual does not mention period of "start up".
I live in Brazil and we have more representation of the EC here so I'm lost on what to do.
I appreciate any help!
Can you provide me the schematics for the AW100 DMB?
Thank You!
Henry
Thank You!
Henry
I have repaired a broken AW 100DMB (the new versión) with one channel shorting problem. All we know how difficult is getting the Norwegian schemes, but after have collected some information, I finally could resolve the problem and it is knos playing superbly.
What I did?
1. Output transistors were blown-away, so I took many months to resolve it.
2.- Setting the BIAS info from the working channel. That's, maybe, the most important. Make the right channel the mirror of the faulty one.
3.- IMPORTANT!! Check the electrolitic condensers. Mines were almost totally dry. They are easy to find and cheap.
4.- IMPORTANT TOO!! Replace potentiometers (I think this is the correct word in English), because (at least in my case) were an important chaos on the general failure.
Check everything or send it to a technician of your choice and let us know.
I also have bought a second hand ELECTROCOMPANIET AW 250 (not the dual mono and balanced option of today's version), but this one is in perfect shape, but it has its years behind... Thanks I got the whooooole schematics in case of future failure or pieces upgrading.
Take care and let us know about your Ampliwire
I know this is an old thread and I apologize for reviving it. Any help you can provide me will be greatly appreciated. Do you have a parts list and a schematic for this AW100DMB? The board markings show:
ECL92
9633
A schematic for the power supply would be helpful also.
I tried to post photos below of the left channel board, hope it worked.
Thank You
HW
ECL92
9633
A schematic for the power supply would be helpful also.
I tried to post photos below of the left channel board, hope it worked.
Thank You
HW
Hello sir,
I have done quite a couple of ampliwires. I still own the original two-channel, a (serial 534) AW-100, and a AW-75dmb. Up to now I still love them all but the two-channel the most.
First of all: don't assume a thing (!) there are many 100's out there with bad repairs and /or wrongly interchanged boards.
First of all, check if the amplifier boards are the same. And if they are also the same qua components.
We are talking about an AW-100dmb. Not an AW-100.
What I would like to know is the number on the amplifier pcb. (it could be on the back in between the heatsink and pcb) But a picture of the amplifier board would be better, so i can easily identify the board and help you out.
(also point which components are "gone") Your amp is probably coming from the early nineties.
One thing about ec's : They are NOT normal amplifiers. You need to see them as heat factories and accordingly treat and restore them that way.
It sounds silly, but some of them run really hot. Especially the two-channel, which is set for 1c bias (!).
I'm also sure that you already have the schematic send to you by someone.
Interpreting it is a different story. Not all the amps in a line are the same.
some will have rc filters on the + somewhere on the amp board, some don't. It depends on the quality of the pcb. So one golden rule would be :
Don't repair an ampliwire, Take very proper fotos of the parts and how the amp is build, so you can take it apart and don't have to worry about where that wire comes from. Next make a list of parts you need. It is probably for the best to renew all transistors too besides the basic overhaul.
Be sure to create the best and proper soldering connections you can deliver and do the entire board. (some parts needs the heat to be redirected, so be careful) Depending on the model .... not all of them are build like yours, You can clearly see the progression to deal with the heat: lowering bias.
Send me some info if this thread is still valid for your amp.
I just stumbled upon it .... a little late i see
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Well it came to me this way with a faceplate that’s shows AW100 DMB. That is a Burson but I haven’t powered the amp up with it in place yet. Not completely sure it is comparable. I just had a set lying around.
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