rollo:
I measured 35mV from J1 to the node I labeled 'DC' on the photo I sent to you - the photo I posted to this site has size limitations and the quality just wasn't there.
The schematic suggests a measurement from the node 'DC' to chassis ground - I got a reading of 0.0V - and when I measured to -V instead, I got a reading of -0.3mV (red lead on node 'DC' black on -V). The schematic also says to adjust R4 to approximately 50mV or less.
I would like to note that the schematic shows node 'DC' marked as "To Servo R400 Drawing 100-3" - my unit does not have the servo control, but I traced at the point where I labeled 'DC' on the photo and I have two resistors in series going to the wiper and leg portion of R41.
nuvo
I measured 35mV from J1 to the node I labeled 'DC' on the photo I sent to you - the photo I posted to this site has size limitations and the quality just wasn't there.
The schematic suggests a measurement from the node 'DC' to chassis ground - I got a reading of 0.0V - and when I measured to -V instead, I got a reading of -0.3mV (red lead on node 'DC' black on -V). The schematic also says to adjust R4 to approximately 50mV or less.
I would like to note that the schematic shows node 'DC' marked as "To Servo R400 Drawing 100-3" - my unit does not have the servo control, but I traced at the point where I labeled 'DC' on the photo and I have two resistors in series going to the wiper and leg portion of R41.
nuvo
Rollo
now I understand,
> I measured 35mV from J1 to the node I labeled 'DC' on the photo I sent to you..
DC is connected to GND on your amp and mine (since there isn't a servo).
if you want to have the right (almost) schematics and layouts, look for the ones labeled AW65, on the same site you got the AW100s.
On the layout drawing you will find:
Electrocompaniet AW 100/65
this layout is identical to your picture !
BTW a big picture is very good, thanks
Rollo
now I understand,
> I measured 35mV from J1 to the node I labeled 'DC' on the photo I sent to you..
DC is connected to GND on your amp and mine (since there isn't a servo).
if you want to have the right (almost) schematics and layouts, look for the ones labeled AW65, on the same site you got the AW100s.
On the layout drawing you will find:
Electrocompaniet AW 100/65
this layout is identical to your picture !
BTW a big picture is very good, thanks
Rollo
Snorkeltjes
I use the schematic from fellow DIY Andypairo - I believe you may be able to download as follows:
http://mio.discoremoto.alice.it/pirobrothers_netdisk/
nuvo
I use the schematic from fellow DIY Andypairo - I believe you may be able to download as follows:
http://mio.discoremoto.alice.it/pirobrothers_netdisk/
nuvo
Snorkeltjes
the jumper is called JP1 on the schematics,
if your amp is same as picture from 2 messages back then you need
the schematics labeled AW65 from
http://mio.discoremoto.alice.it/pirobrothers_netdisk/
Regards
Rollo
the jumper is called JP1 on the schematics,
if your amp is same as picture from 2 messages back then you need
the schematics labeled AW65 from
http://mio.discoremoto.alice.it/pirobrothers_netdisk/
Regards
Rollo
Many thanx Rollo.
This looks beter , i only dont have the delay circuit and dc servo board.
My problem with this amp is that he puts dc on the output.
I put a DMM on the speaker terminal and a read 10> negative.
Resistor r11 on the output stage smoke's after 10 seconds.
Dc offset pot gives no reaction.
Bias pot is almost closed.
Cut of jumper J1 has no effect , the voltages is even higher on the speaker terminal.
All transistors measured fine.
Now I think a replace Q8 , Q9 , Q10 , Q11 , Q12 on the heatsink.
Does anyone had some same problem?
This looks beter , i only dont have the delay circuit and dc servo board.
My problem with this amp is that he puts dc on the output.
I put a DMM on the speaker terminal and a read 10> negative.
Resistor r11 on the output stage smoke's after 10 seconds.
Dc offset pot gives no reaction.
Bias pot is almost closed.
Cut of jumper J1 has no effect , the voltages is even higher on the speaker terminal.
All transistors measured fine.
Now I think a replace Q8 , Q9 , Q10 , Q11 , Q12 on the heatsink.
Does anyone had some same problem?
Snorkeltjes
I don't have the delay circuit and dc servo board either.
>Resistor r11 on the output stage smoke's after 10 seconds.
me too, thus I tried to go back in stages and ended up in the pre section...
I also discovered that someone mounted wrong "equivalent" transistors (Q1...Q4 on out stage)
which had emitters and collectors reversed in TO92. No wonder it would manifest problems.
I might have a similar problem as you, I am still struggling with
offset temp variations on JP1 from the pre stages, of course they impact on the final stages as well.
when you cut JP1 did you connect point A (bases Q1-Q2) to GND ?(you should)
Do both channels have the same problem ?
If they would not, then you could compare their behaviour stage by stage.
I don't have much time at the moment, when I'll fix this beast I'll post results and considerations.
Rollo
I don't have the delay circuit and dc servo board either.
>Resistor r11 on the output stage smoke's after 10 seconds.
me too, thus I tried to go back in stages and ended up in the pre section...
I also discovered that someone mounted wrong "equivalent" transistors (Q1...Q4 on out stage)
which had emitters and collectors reversed in TO92. No wonder it would manifest problems.
I might have a similar problem as you, I am still struggling with
offset temp variations on JP1 from the pre stages, of course they impact on the final stages as well.
when you cut JP1 did you connect point A (bases Q1-Q2) to GND ?(you should)
Do both channels have the same problem ?
If they would not, then you could compare their behaviour stage by stage.
I don't have much time at the moment, when I'll fix this beast I'll post results and considerations.
Rollo
ELECTROCOMPANIET AW 100DMB SCHEMATICS... HELP!
Hi chums!
Well, after having checked audio forums, emailed ECI for the schematics (stupidity would be the first adjective for them) and the same with the technical service sited in Spain (Sarte, bloody fools) and uncle's Google for a long, long time, the more I could collect was just parts from similar ECI models, but not the matching one. The schematics I need belong to the AW 100DMB model, released in the last 90's years (about 97/98, aprox.). Some transistors and fuse have blown away, and after a checking from a reliable technician, he concluded by saying that without schematics, the repairing would turn into a crusade.
That is why I say please... if you got the schematics, please let me know. Here is my email address: jorgepyp@gmail.com
Of course, it would be rewarded if previously asked.
Regards and happy DIY.
Jorge (Spain).
Hi chums!
Well, after having checked audio forums, emailed ECI for the schematics (stupidity would be the first adjective for them) and the same with the technical service sited in Spain (Sarte, bloody fools) and uncle's Google for a long, long time, the more I could collect was just parts from similar ECI models, but not the matching one. The schematics I need belong to the AW 100DMB model, released in the last 90's years (about 97/98, aprox.). Some transistors and fuse have blown away, and after a checking from a reliable technician, he concluded by saying that without schematics, the repairing would turn into a crusade.
That is why I say please... if you got the schematics, please let me know. Here is my email address: jorgepyp@gmail.com
Of course, it would be rewarded if previously asked.
Regards and happy DIY.
Jorge (Spain).
Thank you very much, Nuvo.
Some people have emailed me some AW75, AW100 and even AW250 schematics, but after having checked by the technician, he said that all of them differ a lot when compared to the AW 100DMB. I also got two schematic pages including the legend of AW 100DMB, but are not matching ones.
Whatever, I will be very grateful if you can email me some more info on this model.
Best regards,
Jorge.
Some people have emailed me some AW75, AW100 and even AW250 schematics, but after having checked by the technician, he said that all of them differ a lot when compared to the AW 100DMB. I also got two schematic pages including the legend of AW 100DMB, but are not matching ones.
Whatever, I will be very grateful if you can email me some more info on this model.
Best regards,
Jorge.
hello folks. i just stumbled upon your thread.. i havr an original aw100 and matching preamp. the preamp just crackels when you turn it on and the amp has a bad output transister. i have changed them twice over the years...anyways i will look for it but i have a hand drwn schematic somewhere for the aw 100. it came from a gentleman by the name of hiens price. he was a genius with these units. last i knew he was living in florida but i cant locate him anymore. he was big into europeon radios and stereo equipment....i will try to locate the schematic and make it available if i can....jaime
ELECTROCOMPANIET AW 100DMB: A HISTORY OF NIGHTMARES AND SCHEMES LACKING
Since I bought this unit (second hand), everything has turned into a very, very horrible nightmare. First of all, one fuse blown away the very first second it was connected. I just changed one fuse to realize that a shortcut was the problem (left channel, being the right one ok). But this is just the beginning of the nightmare.
I found a very well-known valve technical expert, but not as much as a transistor one. Whatever, he did his best with the unit without palpable results. After him, I was recommended to bring the unit to a renowned transistor technician. He is the one who has opened and checked the whole unit, thanks to some schematic parts I have found on the Internet and thanks to some anonymous users that have emailed me the info, but the info provided is 80% away from the full AW 100DMB service manual. I have emailed ELECTROCOMPANIET and they just don't sell me the schematics, when they are obligated to do this... that's amazing! With them, everything would be, at least, a bit easier.
Whatever, some transistors got broken and, after being replaced, they cracked again. These are the transistors used in this unit:
2SC3421
2SC3281
2SA1302 (output one, and the last to got broken when being electronically measured with his electronic devices. I don’t know the name, but a graphic appeared in a monitor when touching the transistors; the other ones are surviving at present).
and 2SA1358
Apart from the transistors, the technician have changed the electrolytic condensers (the wrong channel had one almost dry and he thought it could be the heart of the matter), and the unit was playing many hours without any problem or with overheating (no more than the usual in a product of its class). Whatever and as I said before, one 2SC1302 blown away again when measuring (he saw a different graphic when compared both channels, not audible, but easily visible when watched on the monitor). He says that apart from the transistor (I have bought a very expensive Toshiba unit, about €5), the only things that could be replaced are the “resistencias multivuelta” (I don’t know the equivalent into English, sorry), with 200 Ohms. I just have found 100 and 500 Ohms. units, but nothing with 200. I just want to think that these parts are not exclusives from ELECTROCOMPANIET…
I also have read in a past thread that the binomial 2SC3281/2SA1302 is riddled of fake, is that true? I also have read that some users have changed them for the couple 2SC500/2SA1943… Could they match this model?
Whatever, if someone can get or know someone who could own the full schematics of this model, I would be eternally grateful. I still have the idea of revival this model, but the horizon looks so grey, turning black.
Any recommendation, help or trick would be very, very appreciated or even paid. I really don’t know what to do, and I really don’t want to throw it directly to the bin…
Thanks you very much,
Since I bought this unit (second hand), everything has turned into a very, very horrible nightmare. First of all, one fuse blown away the very first second it was connected. I just changed one fuse to realize that a shortcut was the problem (left channel, being the right one ok). But this is just the beginning of the nightmare.
I found a very well-known valve technical expert, but not as much as a transistor one. Whatever, he did his best with the unit without palpable results. After him, I was recommended to bring the unit to a renowned transistor technician. He is the one who has opened and checked the whole unit, thanks to some schematic parts I have found on the Internet and thanks to some anonymous users that have emailed me the info, but the info provided is 80% away from the full AW 100DMB service manual. I have emailed ELECTROCOMPANIET and they just don't sell me the schematics, when they are obligated to do this... that's amazing! With them, everything would be, at least, a bit easier.
Whatever, some transistors got broken and, after being replaced, they cracked again. These are the transistors used in this unit:
2SC3421
2SC3281
2SA1302 (output one, and the last to got broken when being electronically measured with his electronic devices. I don’t know the name, but a graphic appeared in a monitor when touching the transistors; the other ones are surviving at present).
and 2SA1358
Apart from the transistors, the technician have changed the electrolytic condensers (the wrong channel had one almost dry and he thought it could be the heart of the matter), and the unit was playing many hours without any problem or with overheating (no more than the usual in a product of its class). Whatever and as I said before, one 2SC1302 blown away again when measuring (he saw a different graphic when compared both channels, not audible, but easily visible when watched on the monitor). He says that apart from the transistor (I have bought a very expensive Toshiba unit, about €5), the only things that could be replaced are the “resistencias multivuelta” (I don’t know the equivalent into English, sorry), with 200 Ohms. I just have found 100 and 500 Ohms. units, but nothing with 200. I just want to think that these parts are not exclusives from ELECTROCOMPANIET…
I also have read in a past thread that the binomial 2SC3281/2SA1302 is riddled of fake, is that true? I also have read that some users have changed them for the couple 2SC500/2SA1943… Could they match this model?
Whatever, if someone can get or know someone who could own the full schematics of this model, I would be eternally grateful. I still have the idea of revival this model, but the horizon looks so grey, turning black.
Any recommendation, help or trick would be very, very appreciated or even paid. I really don’t know what to do, and I really don’t want to throw it directly to the bin…
Thanks you very much,
nuvo said:
I have repaired a broken AW 100DMB (the new versión) with one channel shorting problem. All we know how difficult is getting the Norwegian schemes, but after have collected some information, I finally could resolve the problem and it is knos playing superbly.
What I did?
1. Output transistors were blown-away, so I took many months to resolve it.
2.- Setting the BIAS info from the working channel. That's, maybe, the most important. Make the right channel the mirror of the faulty one.
3.- IMPORTANT!! Check the electrolitic condensers. Mines were almost totally dry. They are easy to find and cheap.
4.- IMPORTANT TOO!! Replace potentiometers (I think this is the correct word in English), because (at least in my case) were an important chaos on the general failure.
Check everything or send it to a technician of your choice and let us know.
I also have bought a second hand ELECTROCOMPANIET AW 250 (not the dual mono and balanced option of today's version), but this one is in perfect shape, but it has its years behind... Thanks I got the whooooole schematics in case of future failure or pieces upgrading.
Take care and let us know about your Ampliwire
Hi everybody
Thanks for good information, funny that I have to go abroad to find this information, seems to be hard to get here in Norway..
I have AW100 serial number 389, which I'm going to overhaul. It's working, but there are some "clicking" from one relay.
So I will re-solder it, change caps and maybe change transistors.
I don't use it or need it, but I think it's too much history to scrap. In good condition they are sold for aprx USD500.
Stein
Thanks for good information, funny that I have to go abroad to find this information, seems to be hard to get here in Norway..
I have AW100 serial number 389, which I'm going to overhaul. It's working, but there are some "clicking" from one relay.
So I will re-solder it, change caps and maybe change transistors.
I don't use it or need it, but I think it's too much history to scrap. In good condition they are sold for aprx USD500.
Stein
Aw 100 repair / restore
Hello sir,
I have done quite a couple of ampliwires. I still own the original two-channel, a (serial 534) AW-100, and a AW-75dmb. Up to now I still love them all but the two-channel the most.
First of all: don't assume a thing (!) there are many 100's out there with bad repairs and /or wrongly interchanged boards.
First of all, check if the amplifier boards are the same. And if they are also the same qua components.
We are talking about an AW-100dmb. Not an AW-100.
What I would like to know is the number on the amplifier pcb. (it could be on the back in between the heatsink and pcb) But a picture of the amplifier board would be better, so i can easily identify the board and help you out.
(also point which components are "gone") Your amp is probably coming from the early nineties.
One thing about ec's : They are NOT normal amplifiers. You need to see them as heat factories and accordingly treat and restore them that way.
It sounds silly, but some of them run really hot. Especially the two-channel, which is set for 1c bias (!).
I'm also sure that you already have the schematic send to you by someone.
Interpreting it is a different story. Not all the amps in a line are the same.
some will have rc filters on the + somewhere on the amp board, some don't. It depends on the quality of the pcb. So one golden rule would be :
Don't repair an ampliwire, Take very proper fotos of the parts and how the amp is build, so you can take it apart and don't have to worry about where that wire comes from. Next make a list of parts you need. It is probably for the best to renew all transistors too besides the basic overhaul.
Be sure to create the best and proper soldering connections you can deliver and do the entire board. (some parts needs the heat to be redirected, so be careful) Depending on the model .... not all of them are build like yours, You can clearly see the progression to deal with the heat: lowering bias.
Send me some info if this thread is still valid for your amp.
I just stumbled upon it .... a little late i see
Hello sir,
I have done quite a couple of ampliwires. I still own the original two-channel, a (serial 534) AW-100, and a AW-75dmb. Up to now I still love them all but the two-channel the most.
First of all: don't assume a thing (!) there are many 100's out there with bad repairs and /or wrongly interchanged boards.
First of all, check if the amplifier boards are the same. And if they are also the same qua components.
We are talking about an AW-100dmb. Not an AW-100.
What I would like to know is the number on the amplifier pcb. (it could be on the back in between the heatsink and pcb) But a picture of the amplifier board would be better, so i can easily identify the board and help you out.
(also point which components are "gone") Your amp is probably coming from the early nineties.
One thing about ec's : They are NOT normal amplifiers. You need to see them as heat factories and accordingly treat and restore them that way.
It sounds silly, but some of them run really hot. Especially the two-channel, which is set for 1c bias (!).
I'm also sure that you already have the schematic send to you by someone.
Interpreting it is a different story. Not all the amps in a line are the same.
some will have rc filters on the + somewhere on the amp board, some don't. It depends on the quality of the pcb. So one golden rule would be :
Don't repair an ampliwire, Take very proper fotos of the parts and how the amp is build, so you can take it apart and don't have to worry about where that wire comes from. Next make a list of parts you need. It is probably for the best to renew all transistors too besides the basic overhaul.
Be sure to create the best and proper soldering connections you can deliver and do the entire board. (some parts needs the heat to be redirected, so be careful) Depending on the model .... not all of them are build like yours, You can clearly see the progression to deal with the heat: lowering bias.
Send me some info if this thread is still valid for your amp.
I just stumbled upon it .... a little late i see
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