As to the feet, at the moment, I don't want to supply that item either, but I would suggest using one cone directly under transformer (attached to the bolt going through the center of transformer) and a sort of two regular feet in the back.
As you noticed, I decided to mount AC socket on the bottom panel. If that socket is mounted in a regualr way, a clearance of 1" is reguired for a regular 90 deg plug. But if the socket is mounted on 0.5" stand offs, this reduces the required clearance as well. Now, this arrangement may not be completely safe and a full size spacer might be more apropriate.
As you noticed, I decided to mount AC socket on the bottom panel. If that socket is mounted in a regualr way, a clearance of 1" is reguired for a regular 90 deg plug. But if the socket is mounted on 0.5" stand offs, this reduces the required clearance as well. Now, this arrangement may not be completely safe and a full size spacer might be more apropriate.
I am a little confused as to how the IEC connector looks on the bottom of the case.
Would I be able to use thicker "boutique" power cords, such as DIY versions of these: http://www.venhaus1.com/flavor2pic.jpg ?
It seems there wouldn't be enough room?
Would I be able to use thicker "boutique" power cords, such as DIY versions of these: http://www.venhaus1.com/flavor2pic.jpg ?
It seems there wouldn't be enough room?
Hey Peter,
The Chassis looks great. What is the height without the feet? I read that its 9 X 10 but didn't see the height. Also you said you cut the pieces with a table saw. Did you just use a bi-metal blade and go slowly? Any lube? I never thought of using a table saw for cutting aluminum.
The Chassis looks great. What is the height without the feet? I read that its 9 X 10 but didn't see the height. Also you said you cut the pieces with a table saw. Did you just use a bi-metal blade and go slowly? Any lube? I never thought of using a table saw for cutting aluminum.
To my eternal shame, my "cheapie" gainclone with relatively inexpensive components is the quietest...quieter than the ones with transformer inputs!! 
I attribute this mainly to the very compact PSU located in the same chassis. I will be rebuilding the PSUs for my other units to mimic this. Although, I use a taller case and rotate the transformer 90 degrees. I believe that toroids have significantly less "vertical" flux leakage than "horizontal." (i.e. in the plane of the core) Is this true?
P.S. I am using a standard toroidal with no shielding of any kind.
I attribute this mainly to the very compact PSU located in the same chassis. I will be rebuilding the PSUs for my other units to mimic this. Although, I use a taller case and rotate the transformer 90 degrees. I believe that toroids have significantly less "vertical" flux leakage than "horizontal." (i.e. in the plane of the core) Is this true?
P.S. I am using a standard toroidal with no shielding of any kind.
Peter, I got a Freud 60T "standard" blade recently and was amazed at how well it works on aluminum. It cuts *very* cleanly, much more so than the 40T 0-degree rake blade I had been using. I know that the rake is totally wrong for metal but it cuts like a dream.
I'm sure the non-ferrous blade is better, but still, costs almost double. I use WD-40 when cutting anything > 0.25" but it probably just makes me feel better.
I'm sure the non-ferrous blade is better, but still, costs almost double. I use WD-40 when cutting anything > 0.25" but it probably just makes me feel better.
41 said:
It's hard to predict what actually is better for the structure. It may well be that the chassis without wooden panels sounds better to you.
I wouldn't really like to go into that option, as it complicates the whole kit. With wooden panels the metal sides don't have to be surface finished, as well as the side edges of top and bottom covers, because wooden panels hide it from view. As the wood sides are to be finished by end user, it also reduces the overall cost.
But if you want to have metal sides exposed, you can just finish them yourself and trim the front panel. Although more narrow look and knobs closer to the outside may not be that appealing.
Peter:
for the sides, have you thought about having the screw from inside, that way you don't see it exposed on the outside? It would look "cleaner" i think, although might not make the contact w/ the wood as firm as it is right now (although i don't see that as being too much of a problem)
also, what is the dimension of the chassis?
for the sides, have you thought about having the screw from inside, that way you don't see it exposed on the outside? It would look "cleaner" i think, although might not make the contact w/ the wood as firm as it is right now (although i don't see that as being too much of a problem)
also, what is the dimension of the chassis?
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