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Pano, yes, I do like the critters, actually owned a wild african Serval (bush cat) crossed with a domestic, 25 lbs and stripes, until it jumped out a window. Lovely social creatures, almost as social as a dog. Actually, my original avatar is from Art Wolfe, an amazing photographer. Here's one of his African shots:
Pano, yes, I do like the critters, actually owned a wild african Serval (bush cat) crossed with a domestic, 25 lbs and stripes, until it jumped out a window. Lovely social creatures, almost as social as a dog. Actually, my original avatar is from Art Wolfe, an amazing photographer. Here's one of his African shots:
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cotdt said:
I'd be very careful about that. You will be pushing DC back to your source. OK if your source has a DC blocking cap at the output, but if not....
The problem is that any resistace to ground between the input and the blocking cap (wherever it is) will cause a DC offset at the outputs. Have you checked your DC offset?
And if your preamp does not have a blocking cap, you may damge the output stage with the 2.5V coming from the amp. Maybe not, but it could be hard to know.
So it can work, you just need to be careful. Check that DC offset!
serengetiplains said:
Ok. My sonicap amp and Fostex FE103Es have been running for at least 3 days straight since my last post, so tack on at least 80 hours to the burn in time (up to around 130-150 hours or so by now). Either my ears are adjusting to the sound, the caps are breaking in, the amp is breaking in, or the FE103Es are breaking in (or some combination of those), but things are starting to sound damn good. Particularly acoustic music and vocals. Imaging still sounds the same as it has from the start - superb with this amp and speaker combo. I'll have to switch back soon and see if my ears really have adjusted or not. Either way, I'm no longer that bummed about the sonicaps
guys, since the choice of caps is rather small in Lithuania (none of the mentioned caps in this thread can be found in radio shops here), could anyone please recommend which would be the best cap for t-amp form this list (I would certainly prefer the one which eliminates bass shy'ness):
http://www.spikare.lt/?acc=search&id=2&term=kondensatorius&sortby=kaina_desc&begin=0&pcount=50
btw, 3.5 LT = 1 EUR
and another question about removing original t-amp caps and adding new caps:
is it possible to do the whole job of removing/adding for a total newcomer like me? In order not to damage the t-amp scheme is it possible to cut out the original t-amp caps (not de-solder it) and add new caps by simply (?) soldering the wires of new caps to the remaining wires on t-amp board...
Please, forgive me for stupid questions. I greatly would appreciate for your help.
http://www.spikare.lt/?acc=search&id=2&term=kondensatorius&sortby=kaina_desc&begin=0&pcount=50
btw, 3.5 LT = 1 EUR
and another question about removing original t-amp caps and adding new caps:
is it possible to do the whole job of removing/adding for a total newcomer like me? In order not to damage the t-amp scheme is it possible to cut out the original t-amp caps (not de-solder it) and add new caps by simply (?) soldering the wires of new caps to the remaining wires on t-amp board...
Please, forgive me for stupid questions. I greatly would appreciate for your help.
Hi,
It looks like the best cap for you would be the Audyn film/foil 2.2uF. That is part # KPSN622/1 on your list. Remember, it's big. 18x38mm. Audyn caps are well liked, especially the film/foil.
As for cutting out the cap on the t-amp. NO. There are no wires to cut, eveything is surface mount. Have a look at my site (see below) and some of the other DIY sites about the Sonic.
I sounds like you are really new to this, so maybe modifying the sonic would be too much for you. Better that you should get an AMP6 kit from 41hz.com. Even that can be a challenge for someone very new to building (it is an easy kit, tho).
Look into getting a Charlize if you are very new to soldering. You'll still have plenty of work to do running all the wires and instaling the connectors and power supply. A much better place to start if this is your 1st project. And you'll have a much better amp!
It looks like the best cap for you would be the Audyn film/foil 2.2uF. That is part # KPSN622/1 on your list. Remember, it's big. 18x38mm. Audyn caps are well liked, especially the film/foil.
As for cutting out the cap on the t-amp. NO. There are no wires to cut, eveything is surface mount. Have a look at my site (see below) and some of the other DIY sites about the Sonic.
I sounds like you are really new to this, so maybe modifying the sonic would be too much for you. Better that you should get an AMP6 kit from 41hz.com. Even that can be a challenge for someone very new to building (it is an easy kit, tho).
Look into getting a Charlize if you are very new to soldering. You'll still have plenty of work to do running all the wires and instaling the connectors and power supply. A much better place to start if this is your 1st project. And you'll have a much better amp!
Thanks, panomaniac.
I will definetly take your advice and keep my hands away from t-amp
Instead, I will bring t-amp to a person who has knowledge/experience in dealing with electronics.
I still have a question regarding audyn caps, you've mentioned in your last post: are those caps impossible to mount, o just 'hard' to mount ...and, actually, any person who had experience in this stuff could mount somewhat bigger caps?
btw, I need 2 audyn caps, right?
I will definetly take your advice and keep my hands away from t-amp
Instead, I will bring t-amp to a person who has knowledge/experience in dealing with electronics.
I still have a question regarding audyn caps, you've mentioned in your last post: are those caps impossible to mount, o just 'hard' to mount ...and, actually, any person who had experience in this stuff could mount somewhat bigger caps?
btw, I need 2 audyn caps, right?
irss said:
Ideally you'd want to shorten the leads as much as possible. However, I left the full length of the leads on those caps in the photo because I'm just testing them right now. If I shortened the leads as much as possible then I probably wouldn't be able to use them with anything else if I ever want to sometime down the road. A pair of those caps cost as much as the amp3 kit so I'm definitely going to get my use out of them one way or another
Yes, Brian is correct. You can only get so close, because of the size of the caps. He left his leads long for testing.
Here is a photo of a modified Sonic I did long ago. (I don't modify Sonics anymore, I do other boards).
The yellow caps are Auricaps for the inputs. The large black cap is a 10000uF Nichicon Gold Tune on the power rails. You can try something like this.
Here is a photo of a modified Sonic I did long ago. (I don't modify Sonics anymore, I do other boards).
The yellow caps are Auricaps for the inputs. The large black cap is a 10000uF Nichicon Gold Tune on the power rails. You can try something like this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I tried the Obligatto PIO and film/foil caps with a Charlize and I agree with panomaniac. The film/foils are very good and seem to be a bargain. The PIOs were also very nice and really tamed the high frequencies; not exactly neutral sounding but could be the choice for those finding fatigue in the t-amps on some recordings.
Also, I tried a pair of 3.3uF Jupiters and found them enjoyable, but they seemd to emphasize the mids and highs a little for my taste. They were expensive as well.
The Obligattos are really a great buy and very good caps for this application. Just be sure to leave plenty of room... they are big.
Also, I tried a pair of 3.3uF Jupiters and found them enjoyable, but they seemd to emphasize the mids and highs a little for my taste. They were expensive as well.
The Obligattos are really a great buy and very good caps for this application. Just be sure to leave plenty of room... they are big.
cotdt said:
And you would do this - why? To go to a single pole filter? Might work OK, but you would have a lot more RF in the output. A simple filter is a good idea, but be careful with the RF engery. The Stock Sonic Impact filter is not very good, IMO. Could stand a lot of improvement.
(Remember, the output caps are not in series with the signal, as the input caps are).
Hi cotdt,
The output filter used in these amps is a 2nd order low pass filter. See here for a good information on filters.
Filters explained
You want to look at the filter on the woofer. That is the low pass. If you look at the 2nd order filter, you will see what is filtering the output of the T-amp. Just a normal low-pass filter, but at a very high frequency.
In a normal 2 way speaker, the low pass might be at 2500 Hz. For the T-amp it will be much, much higher, around 70 kHz or more. But they do the same thing; they remove the highs from the signal. For the T-Amp we want to remove the 700 kHz switching signal.
If you removed the caps from the filter you would get what? A 1st order filter (single pole). The high frequency cut-off slope would not be as steep, so you would end up with more RF remaining in the speaker outputs.
So that is more than you ever wanted to know, but there it is. Remove that caps and you could have a cleaner filter, but you'll have twice as much RF in the speaker lines. Could be a problem, or not.
The output filter used in these amps is a 2nd order low pass filter. See here for a good information on filters.
Filters explained
You want to look at the filter on the woofer. That is the low pass. If you look at the 2nd order filter, you will see what is filtering the output of the T-amp. Just a normal low-pass filter, but at a very high frequency.
In a normal 2 way speaker, the low pass might be at 2500 Hz. For the T-amp it will be much, much higher, around 70 kHz or more. But they do the same thing; they remove the highs from the signal. For the T-Amp we want to remove the 700 kHz switching signal.
If you removed the caps from the filter you would get what? A 1st order filter (single pole). The high frequency cut-off slope would not be as steep, so you would end up with more RF remaining in the speaker outputs.
So that is more than you ever wanted to know, but there it is. Remove that caps and you could have a cleaner filter, but you'll have twice as much RF in the speaker lines. Could be a problem, or not.
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