panomaniac said:
For those of you with AMP3 or AMP6 kits, you will recognize the inductors in the photo above. =)
Now I use a smaller, bettercore that need only 10 turns to get 10uF - sweet! Means I can use my fancy silver coated Teflon insulated wire.
The output filter really does have an effect on the sound quality. The stock filters seem to be harsh compared to what I've been able to do.
So I really do need to start a new thread on this subject. Maybe some of the UCD snobs would even join in.
Maybe time for new thread - what cores do you now use?
John
My kit arrived without input caps.
So rather than wait for them to arrive, I installed Black Gates because thats all i had in the right value.
I've since tried two types of polyester and three polyprops in that position (polyesters gave an entertaining full sound but with a slight glassy sheen to the treble, polyprops were more neutral but could sound uninteresting at times).
The result is that I keep wanting to return to the BG's. Maybe some exotic polyprops would tip the balance.
Maybe BGs just suit Class d amps.
So rather than wait for them to arrive, I installed Black Gates because thats all i had in the right value.
I've since tried two types of polyester and three polyprops in that position (polyesters gave an entertaining full sound but with a slight glassy sheen to the treble, polyprops were more neutral but could sound uninteresting at times).
The result is that I keep wanting to return to the BG's. Maybe some exotic polyprops would tip the balance.
Maybe BGs just suit Class d amps.
Thought I'd report back on my latest experiments:
I bought a variety of capacitors from ebay over the last month or so. I bought a selection pack of low value teflon caps (ex soviet army) and also a variety of red/brown squarish paper in oil caps (also ex soviet army). All are new old stock.
I have recently gone a bit made on the power supply to my t-amp, using four 10000uF caps off-board and two 2.2uF polypropylene caps very close to the t-amps own power supply cap. I had intended to remove this, but don't have a suitably-sized replacement or the balls to try and rip it out.
First I added two small (one was 0.1uF, the other 6800pF) teflon bypass caps in parallel with the polyprop's. I feel this was worthwhile, as the sound gained in detail and smoothness (I have noticed this type of change before when psu's are improved).
Last night I finally ripped out the Audyn 3.3uF caps I had been using as input coupling caps. Interesting point: before I got these I had Ero double metallized (think MKP1813 or something (at work at the mo)) 1.5uF caps for coupling and these were massively dynamic with huge bass weight and good extended treble. When I first changed to the Audyns the sound lost lots of weight and dynamics, and also sounded a lot dryer. After a few weeks use they have improved greatly. The Audyns are more neutral, and have better focus in the midrange. The Eros weren't so accurate but partied harder. I can't believe the weight and dynamics these cheap caps have!
Anyway, going over to the NOS paper in oil russion caps was a revelation. I am convinced the perceived quality of any link in the audio chain is only a measure of how well it compliments the other links. With my system (Naim CD5, Flatcap2, fe207e based voigt pipes with scottmoose' modded port) the paper in oil immediately bettered the Audyns. The Audyns were 3.3uF, where the replacements are 4uF although as I understand it neither should be attenuating audible bass. The paper caps were smoother, but the percusion in the pixies and doors CD's i had lying to hand was vastly superior in it's reproduction. The tone of the skins of drums, as well as the kick was brilliant. I had been assuming the paper caps would sound nice and warm but I'd expected to lose dynamics. I was wrong. Best of all these caps get closer to the sound of a great system - one where irrespective of increasing layers and complexity the system remains completely on-top of the music.
I will let you know what happens when the new caps have run in. I should get some photos soon too.
Oh yeah, I connected the paper caps in parallel with my power supply over night before using them hoping it might run them in a bit. Is this worthwhile? I made sure to decharge the caps with a resistor across the terminals before installing them in the signal path.
I bought a variety of capacitors from ebay over the last month or so. I bought a selection pack of low value teflon caps (ex soviet army) and also a variety of red/brown squarish paper in oil caps (also ex soviet army). All are new old stock.
I have recently gone a bit made on the power supply to my t-amp, using four 10000uF caps off-board and two 2.2uF polypropylene caps very close to the t-amps own power supply cap. I had intended to remove this, but don't have a suitably-sized replacement or the balls to try and rip it out.
First I added two small (one was 0.1uF, the other 6800pF) teflon bypass caps in parallel with the polyprop's. I feel this was worthwhile, as the sound gained in detail and smoothness (I have noticed this type of change before when psu's are improved).
Last night I finally ripped out the Audyn 3.3uF caps I had been using as input coupling caps. Interesting point: before I got these I had Ero double metallized (think MKP1813 or something (at work at the mo)) 1.5uF caps for coupling and these were massively dynamic with huge bass weight and good extended treble. When I first changed to the Audyns the sound lost lots of weight and dynamics, and also sounded a lot dryer. After a few weeks use they have improved greatly. The Audyns are more neutral, and have better focus in the midrange. The Eros weren't so accurate but partied harder. I can't believe the weight and dynamics these cheap caps have!
Anyway, going over to the NOS paper in oil russion caps was a revelation. I am convinced the perceived quality of any link in the audio chain is only a measure of how well it compliments the other links. With my system (Naim CD5, Flatcap2, fe207e based voigt pipes with scottmoose' modded port) the paper in oil immediately bettered the Audyns. The Audyns were 3.3uF, where the replacements are 4uF although as I understand it neither should be attenuating audible bass. The paper caps were smoother, but the percusion in the pixies and doors CD's i had lying to hand was vastly superior in it's reproduction. The tone of the skins of drums, as well as the kick was brilliant. I had been assuming the paper caps would sound nice and warm but I'd expected to lose dynamics. I was wrong. Best of all these caps get closer to the sound of a great system - one where irrespective of increasing layers and complexity the system remains completely on-top of the music.
I will let you know what happens when the new caps have run in. I should get some photos soon too.
Oh yeah, I connected the paper caps in parallel with my power supply over night before using them hoping it might run them in a bit. Is this worthwhile? I made sure to decharge the caps with a resistor across the terminals before installing them in the signal path.
Sorry - I should has mentioned that I had 3.3uF Audyn KP SN caps. I have tried both types in my Loth X BS1 speakers in place of the standard crossover cap, and the Plus caps were better. I assume the Audyn Plus caps may also be better at line level coupling, but haven't tried it.
The paper in oils are getting better by the day. I wouldn't give them an unconditional recommendation as they do fill out the sound in a way that would be too much in an already heavy sounding system. It suits my kit though.
The paper in oils are getting better by the day. I wouldn't give them an unconditional recommendation as they do fill out the sound in a way that would be too much in an already heavy sounding system. It suits my kit though.
I've been having good luck lately with Jantzen Cross Caps. They work well for me as input caps. Seem to have a lot of detail, such as ambient clues - air, as well as a smooth sound. Very similar in sonic signature to the Obbligato caps. A little less detailed and nuanced than the Obbligatos, but close. And given the size and price vs. the Obbs, it's hard to fault the Jantzens. Small and cheap!
BTW, the normal film/foil Obbligatos are no longer listed on their web page, and my last shipment came as the copper tumbe version, instead of the black ones. Wonder what's up with that? I'm sure the copper caps are very nice, but also HUGE! Heavy too.
Anyone else try the Jantzens? I think I'll have to start using them in my crossovers, they're nice.
BTW, the normal film/foil Obbligatos are no longer listed on their web page, and my last shipment came as the copper tumbe version, instead of the black ones. Wonder what's up with that? I'm sure the copper caps are very nice, but also HUGE! Heavy too.
Anyone else try the Jantzens? I think I'll have to start using them in my crossovers, they're nice.
I can't say that I'd use anything less than 1uF. The stock Sonic Impact has a 0.33uF that , in theory, shouldn't cause much bass roll off, but the measurements show that something is rolling off the bass. You can hear it too.
10uF seems much too big, at least if you are concerned with the thump. And why put the signal thru more cap that you need?
10uF seems much too big, at least if you are concerned with the thump. And why put the signal thru more cap that you need?
Power Supply Caps
Hi All Fellow T-amp fans,
I am a complete newbie in the world of Hi-Fi DIY and I recently garner enough guts to modify my SI.
Thanks to all of you Masters here, after much reading I finally took the plunge.
So far my mods are simple stuff like replacing the spring clips with binding posts, RCA instead of the 1/8 inch input jack, toggle on/off switch, remove the volume pot to make it a power amp. All while using the original case with some modifications
As with all modders, I am at the "what can I do next" step.
After reading this thread, I would like to change the C10 power supply cap with a better one and add a stiffener cap too.
I would like to use the Panasonic FC series caps for the job. I am thinking of a 16v 330uf cap to replace C10 and a 16v 2200uf cap as a stiffener. Anyone with good or bad experience with these Panasonic caps?
Also, for the stiffener, I believe I can parallel a few smaller caps together instead of using one huge cap. Is this true?
I might take the easy way out and just add the 330uF cap on top of the stock C10. Would this be ok?
I have a basic question on the type of caps that I can use. For power supply, Alum Electrolytic caps are used. While for the input, the polyprops are favored by some.
Can I use the Nichicon FG series Alum Electrolytic caps to replace the caps accross the speaker output terminals (100v 0.1uF) and as input caps (100v 1uF or 2.2uF)? Or do they have to be polyprop type caps?
Also, if I just add the better caps in my input without removing or modding the stock input caps, would this provide any benefit?
The board is awfully small and I am quite sure my hands are not steady enough to pull it off the input mods.
I apologize for the long post. I really appreciate any reply and advice from you all.
Thank you all in advance.
Poh Gunn Ooi
Hi All Fellow T-amp fans,
I am a complete newbie in the world of Hi-Fi DIY and I recently garner enough guts to modify my SI.
Thanks to all of you Masters here, after much reading I finally took the plunge.
So far my mods are simple stuff like replacing the spring clips with binding posts, RCA instead of the 1/8 inch input jack, toggle on/off switch, remove the volume pot to make it a power amp. All while using the original case with some modifications
As with all modders, I am at the "what can I do next" step.
After reading this thread, I would like to change the C10 power supply cap with a better one and add a stiffener cap too.
I would like to use the Panasonic FC series caps for the job. I am thinking of a 16v 330uf cap to replace C10 and a 16v 2200uf cap as a stiffener. Anyone with good or bad experience with these Panasonic caps?
Also, for the stiffener, I believe I can parallel a few smaller caps together instead of using one huge cap. Is this true?
I might take the easy way out and just add the 330uF cap on top of the stock C10. Would this be ok?
I have a basic question on the type of caps that I can use. For power supply, Alum Electrolytic caps are used. While for the input, the polyprops are favored by some.
Can I use the Nichicon FG series Alum Electrolytic caps to replace the caps accross the speaker output terminals (100v 0.1uF) and as input caps (100v 1uF or 2.2uF)? Or do they have to be polyprop type caps?
Also, if I just add the better caps in my input without removing or modding the stock input caps, would this provide any benefit?
The board is awfully small and I am quite sure my hands are not steady enough to pull it off the input mods.
I apologize for the long post. I really appreciate any reply and advice from you all.
Thank you all in advance.
Poh Gunn Ooi
Michael Mardis' website has an update on how to connect an Alum Electrolytic cap as the input cap, http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/inputmods_E.html
That answered my earlier post. Thank you Mike for the update.
Is it possible to use an Alum Electrolytic cap to replace the caps accross the speaker output terminals?
If so, how will the connection be, i.e. would it be +ve of cap to the +ve of the speaker terminals (red wire) and -ve of cap to -ve of the speaker terminals?
I stumbled upon this interesting website,http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html , while looking for reviews on the AmpOhm brand of caps. The reviewer was using them in his loudspeakers' filters though.
Any help provided is highly appreciated.
That answered my earlier post. Thank you Mike for the update.
Is it possible to use an Alum Electrolytic cap to replace the caps accross the speaker output terminals?
If so, how will the connection be, i.e. would it be +ve of cap to the +ve of the speaker terminals (red wire) and -ve of cap to -ve of the speaker terminals?
I stumbled upon this interesting website,http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html , while looking for reviews on the AmpOhm brand of caps. The reviewer was using them in his loudspeakers' filters though.
Any help provided is highly appreciated.
dynoforce said:
And we should thank Audio 1st for the wonderful diagrams!
Use a film cap across the speaker terminals, or no cap at all. An electrolytic is not suited for this job. You should be able to find a small, cheap and good qaulity film cap of the right value just about anwhere in th world.
Hi!
Im looking to mod my T-Amp with a few mods. I already made the c3, c4 and c10 caps change, and it was quite a change (for the better) to the sound.
Now for my future plans:
1) Change the pot to a motorized ALP 100k pot
2) Add relays to controll input-selection
2) Add line out (for future subwoofer)
1 and 2 should be no problem, but for line-out im not sure.
So my question: Can I just connect the line out before the caps (AFTER the pot) in Audio 1st diagram?
ps. Im planning to use this remote-kit for pot and input ( http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85&products_id=195 ). Does any of you se a problem with it?
Im looking to mod my T-Amp with a few mods. I already made the c3, c4 and c10 caps change, and it was quite a change (for the better) to the sound.
Now for my future plans:
1) Change the pot to a motorized ALP 100k pot
2) Add relays to controll input-selection
2) Add line out (for future subwoofer)
1 and 2 should be no problem, but for line-out im not sure.
So my question: Can I just connect the line out before the caps (AFTER the pot) in Audio 1st diagram?
ps. Im planning to use this remote-kit for pot and input ( http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85&products_id=195 ). Does any of you se a problem with it?
I have on of those remote control preamp boards too, very cool. Working up an active preamp circuit to go with it.
If you want a sub out, the problem is that it really should be buffered. Without buffering you are feeding the sub amp from a 100K source. You'll get some high end roll off thru your cable (not a problem for a sub) but also you'll lose some of the subjective bass "drive" and "slam" that a buffer will give you.
It may sound aOK passive, until you hear it with a buffer. =)
So you're going to need an opamp or some other buffer after the pot for best results. That means a twin rail power supply.
A topic more suited for another forum.
If you want a sub out, the problem is that it really should be buffered. Without buffering you are feeding the sub amp from a 100K source. You'll get some high end roll off thru your cable (not a problem for a sub) but also you'll lose some of the subjective bass "drive" and "slam" that a buffer will give you.
It may sound aOK passive, until you hear it with a buffer. =)
So you're going to need an opamp or some other buffer after the pot for best results. That means a twin rail power supply.
A topic more suited for another forum.
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