riaz said:
Hi riaz, the best ways are to go for the classic or stealth methods as per Panomaniac's site.
MM
This way you dont have to worry about lifting pads or whatever.
If you do the classic then you can through hole solder the resistors closer to the chip:
solder points
I have tried both and to be honest there is very little dofference so I would always suggest Audio1st's stealth mod.
Cheers
Lee
Thanks Guys for your replies; I was able to repatch the input caps again to those tiny holes and placed hot melt glue between caps and board.
I will try the stealth mode next time when I get my alps pot.
Btw, i've used a 4.7 prop(MKP) and later bypassed them with a 10uf BG-N. Still waiting for the verdict, but the background noise has further been minimized and also the bass now has more bite.
I will try the stealth mode next time when I get my alps pot.
Btw, i've used a 4.7 prop(MKP) and later bypassed them with a 10uf BG-N. Still waiting for the verdict, but the background noise has further been minimized and also the bass now has more bite.
T amp caps and Diodes....
Worth doing, is putting 2 x 220uF Low ESR caps actually accross the PINS of each supply to earth pins of the chip....(A steady hand needed here!)
It has given good results on my earlier TA2020-020 chip. Adding an Ultrafast 1A diode to each chip output to up to the supply rail is also worth doing to protect against Overshoot when running into low impedance loads too....
Worth doing, is putting 2 x 220uF Low ESR caps actually accross the PINS of each supply to earth pins of the chip....(A steady hand needed here!)
It has given good results on my earlier TA2020-020 chip. Adding an Ultrafast 1A diode to each chip output to up to the supply rail is also worth doing to protect against Overshoot when running into low impedance loads too....
Just discovered the T-amp
Hi all
Well - what a revelation?? I just recently discovered the SI T-Amp. Came across an unused one for sale on eBay in Australia and couldn't resist.
My first impression was disbelief at its size and that it sounded very good. During a week of use I could actually hear the sound improving from day to day. It now sounds fantastic.
I've been using it with a switchmode supply that can provide a range of output voltages - the relevant ones being 12V @ 5A and 13.5V @ 3.8A. I've only used the 12V setting so far, but will try 13.5V once I've modded it and added a heatsink.
Anyway - to the discussion at hand. Based on the recommendations in this thread, I have ordered a pair of Obbligato premium aluminum film caps - 1.0uF (630V) new copper case 40 x 32 @ $6.50 each to replace the input caps. I plan to do the Stealth mod and decided not to go for 2.2uF as all of my speakers are fairly small (bookshelf size) and probably don't go below 40Hz. Does this seem like a reasonable choice??
Also - I have some Panasonic FC 220uF 16V caps. These are 8mm diameter and should make an easy replacement for the existing onboard power supply cap. Does it make sense to replace the existing low quality 330uF cap with one of these lower value FC's?? Should I be thinking of adding another one on the other side of the board?
BTW - I also plan to add a 10,000uf 50V Nichicon LK offboard.
Any comments you have on what I'm planning would be much appreciated - as is the great information and diagrams you have posted on this site and elsewhere......Thanks.
Hi all
Well - what a revelation?? I just recently discovered the SI T-Amp. Came across an unused one for sale on eBay in Australia and couldn't resist.
My first impression was disbelief at its size and that it sounded very good. During a week of use I could actually hear the sound improving from day to day. It now sounds fantastic.
I've been using it with a switchmode supply that can provide a range of output voltages - the relevant ones being 12V @ 5A and 13.5V @ 3.8A. I've only used the 12V setting so far, but will try 13.5V once I've modded it and added a heatsink.
Anyway - to the discussion at hand. Based on the recommendations in this thread, I have ordered a pair of Obbligato premium aluminum film caps - 1.0uF (630V) new copper case 40 x 32 @ $6.50 each to replace the input caps. I plan to do the Stealth mod and decided not to go for 2.2uF as all of my speakers are fairly small (bookshelf size) and probably don't go below 40Hz. Does this seem like a reasonable choice??
Also - I have some Panasonic FC 220uF 16V caps. These are 8mm diameter and should make an easy replacement for the existing onboard power supply cap. Does it make sense to replace the existing low quality 330uF cap with one of these lower value FC's?? Should I be thinking of adding another one on the other side of the board?
BTW - I also plan to add a 10,000uf 50V Nichicon LK offboard.
Any comments you have on what I'm planning would be much appreciated - as is the great information and diagrams you have posted on this site and elsewhere......Thanks.
Fin,
With the 8mm diameter you can go as high as 680uf, as long as you don't mind a little more height. I got a dramatic improvement in bass from installing a Nichicon PW(M) of that size there. From other discussions here, I think there is also a 680uf Panasonic FM that's 8mm in dia.
I also got a little more punchy bass by adding a 4700uf Nichicon Muse soldered on the board (or rather hanging off), attached to the holes where the power input jack was before I yanked it out.
I know there must be a point where additional capacitance is overkill, but I'm not sure what it is.
--Buckapound
With the 8mm diameter you can go as high as 680uf, as long as you don't mind a little more height. I got a dramatic improvement in bass from installing a Nichicon PW(M) of that size there. From other discussions here, I think there is also a 680uf Panasonic FM that's 8mm in dia.
I also got a little more punchy bass by adding a 4700uf Nichicon Muse soldered on the board (or rather hanging off), attached to the holes where the power input jack was before I yanked it out.
I know there must be a point where additional capacitance is overkill, but I'm not sure what it is.
--Buckapound
Re: Just discovered the T-amp
Just to add (as it's buried somewhere in this or a similar thread) some uF values in Panasonic FC come in two body sizes, one longer but slimmer than the other. The largest 'standard' 8mm diameter 16V is 330uF (FEEUFC1C331), harder to find (in the UK, YMMV) are the 'long' 8mm 16V which go up to 680uF (EEUFC1C681L). The better FM range is similar.
Fin said:
Just to add (as it's buried somewhere in this or a similar thread) some uF values in Panasonic FC come in two body sizes, one longer but slimmer than the other. The largest 'standard' 8mm diameter 16V is 330uF (FEEUFC1C331), harder to find (in the UK, YMMV) are the 'long' 8mm 16V which go up to 680uF (EEUFC1C681L). The better FM range is similar.
The Obbligato caps are a good choice. 1uF will be fne for your use, bookshelf speakers. The Obbligato caps are bigger then the amp!
Be carefull with that 13.5 volts. You will be right at the limit of what the chip can handle. Be sure your heatsink is good.
Ditto what was said above about the cap size. 680uF is what I use, in the slim case. Adding more on the somewhere on the board will help. So will the offboard cap.
Drop me a line if you can't find the right cap.
Be carefull with that 13.5 volts. You will be right at the limit of what the chip can handle. Be sure your heatsink is good.
Ditto what was said above about the cap size. 680uF is what I use, in the slim case. Adding more on the somewhere on the board will help. So will the offboard cap.
Drop me a line if you can't find the right cap.
Thanks all for your help.
I was thinking of the FC because I already have a few of them...but after your comments I might be dropping Michael a line about one of those nice FM's.
It's good to hear that I didn't make a mistake with those 1uF Obbligatos.
Well - I will probably leave the supply set a 12V - to be on the safe side. I don't need the extra power - it goes loud enough for me as it is.
With regards to the offboard cap - would it be better to use one 10,000uF Nichicon LK or a few higher quality 1,000uF Nichicon KZ caps paralled?
And - is it practical/appropriate/worthwhile getting some of the aircore inductors that DIY Paradise or Autocostruire sell for their amps?
Aircore inductors
Finally - I came across this on eBay:
Lepai T-Amp
Apparently it has a TA2020 inside. Anyone seen it before?
I was thinking of the FC because I already have a few of them...but after your comments I might be dropping Michael a line about one of those nice FM's.
It's good to hear that I didn't make a mistake with those 1uF Obbligatos.
Well - I will probably leave the supply set a 12V - to be on the safe side. I don't need the extra power - it goes loud enough for me as it is.
With regards to the offboard cap - would it be better to use one 10,000uF Nichicon LK or a few higher quality 1,000uF Nichicon KZ caps paralled?
And - is it practical/appropriate/worthwhile getting some of the aircore inductors that DIY Paradise or Autocostruire sell for their amps?
Aircore inductors
Finally - I came across this on eBay:
Lepai T-Amp
Apparently it has a TA2020 inside. Anyone seen it before?
Fin said:
Either will work. The 10 caps in parallel is generally better, lower ESR, but can be a pain to wire up.
My experience with the aircore inductors is that they tend to have a nice smooth top end, but lack the dynamics and punch of a good toroid. As always, tradeoffs.
Cute! Might have to get one. What makes you think it has a TA2020? Did I miss that in the text somewhere?
I told him we were from the same forum and he said he will give us a discount on the shipping - so you might see a few dollars refunded to your account - hopefully.
If we discuss these new amps further on this forum, we should probably start a new thread so as not to contaminate this nice thread on the caps for the SI T-amp.
If we discuss these new amps further on this forum, we should probably start a new thread so as not to contaminate this nice thread on the caps for the SI T-amp.
Hi to all.
I am new to HI FI DIY and electronics so, please, be patient with me.
I got some T amp and I am playing with one of them.
So far I made the "stealth" input mod with very cheap caps, I changed the inductors with some toroidal ones, I linked the t amp to the pre of an old a Technics integrated amplifier.
My approach is a little different from yours since I do not consider spending much more than the cost of the toy to upgrade it.
Given this fact I would like to know the suggested specifications for the:
- input (this point I think is clear: 2.2 uF film caps, right?)
- C10 capacitors
So I can source the best possible without spending a lot (I got no stock of such parts).
Another thing I do not understand well is the possiblity to substiute the C10 cap and then add some more offboard. Could you explain the layout and convenient specs of the caps?
Thank you
I am new to HI FI DIY and electronics so, please, be patient with me.
I got some T amp and I am playing with one of them.
So far I made the "stealth" input mod with very cheap caps, I changed the inductors with some toroidal ones, I linked the t amp to the pre of an old a Technics integrated amplifier.
My approach is a little different from yours since I do not consider spending much more than the cost of the toy to upgrade it.
Given this fact I would like to know the suggested specifications for the:
- input (this point I think is clear: 2.2 uF film caps, right?)
- C10 capacitors
So I can source the best possible without spending a lot (I got no stock of such parts).
Another thing I do not understand well is the possiblity to substiute the C10 cap and then add some more offboard. Could you explain the layout and convenient specs of the caps?
Thank you
sorry to bring this thread up agian, but pretty good thread to read
im thinking of changing the ouput cap of my t-amp, what will be a suitable replacement?
found some really nice 1% Polystyrene at farnel malaysia, will this be suitable?
http://my.farnell.com/9520651/passives/product.us0?sku=lcr-components-fscex-1000pf-1-250v
im thinking of changing the ouput cap of my t-amp, what will be a suitable replacement?
found some really nice 1% Polystyrene at farnel malaysia, will this be suitable?
http://my.farnell.com/9520651/passives/product.us0?sku=lcr-components-fscex-1000pf-1-250v
sorry i dont know how to edit my post, here is the diagram of the board i have
seems like those 1000pf caps which i have taken as output caps is not the one pano mention, i guess those caps can be remove
output caps from pano previous explaination seems like the 0.47uf beside the inductor
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
seems like those 1000pf caps which i have taken as output caps is not the one pano mention, i guess those caps can be remove
output caps from pano previous explaination seems like the 0.47uf beside the inductor
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