Yea I did a lot of research before buying it used on ebay not working for $50 It really is a great amp with lots of power that's why I really want to get my dad some nice speakers to go with it to really get the most out of the amp if possible. So far the only kit I like is the TriTrix MTM Knock-Down I haven't seen anything else that is big enough for our tastes. We might just get some 10's for the boxes he has already and some better mids and tweeters later then hopefully build better boxes.Driver power handling ratings are based on the ability of the voice coil to to dissipate heat, and do not take into account mechanical limitations when playing lower frequencies in various box alignments. In those large vented boxes, it's possible the power handling at some low frequencies could be as low as 10-20W per box give or take (not sure, would have to run a sim with more information about the tuning of the box). If you intend to high-pass the mains, then this doesn't matter, and you can count on power handling somewhere in the neighborhood of 60-100W RMS depending on the content of the signal. Also, like streten was saying, you can actually have transients and peaks far higher than this without a problem.
A clean amplification level of 100W RMS per channel in a stereo system with average speaker efficiency (~90db/w) translates to listening levels that are pretty darn high (~116db @1M if I am doing my math right here). 25WPC of clean amplification is generally enough to hit studio reference levels (~110db).
That amp your dad has there is really great, and will have a ton of overhead for normal listening, which is great, because it can really provide a presence in situations where you have a lot of dynamic range to deal with. That amp is pretty similar I suspect to the one I own. A Rotel RA-1070 integrated amp. (MSRP: $1200, bought on consignment for less than half of that about 10 years ago). When I first switched to this amp, I finally understood the importance of "good" amplification.
IMO good amplification is more important than good speakers. I know some will balk about me saying it, especially in the forum section dedicated to the speakers, but my experience has led me to believe it is true. I have heard high end speakers sound mediocre on typical home stereo receivers, and I have heard ordinary speakers sound incredible on a really clean amp.
ok? They look like musical instrument / pa system ones that's all I'm saying.
My bad Ninesvnsicks Here is a link to an example to show you a picture of one. This page uses a digital crossover but these normally use a plain passive crossover. You could find an example under the name Econowave. I can scrape up some more usable links if you're interested.
This DIY project is known for its cost effective performance. It goes loud and it sounds good. The theory behind them is currently very popular with DIYers.
Here is one example of a woofer used in one of the variations.
There are pro sound looking speakers that are not too hot, sometimes marketed as party speakers, they can sound terrible. On the other hand the well designed pro speakers can be hifi. The driver's method of construction, paper cones, high efficiency, horns etc can produce very high quality sound when you choose the right ones.
Do you have any pre-assembled speakers that you would recommend?There are pro sound looking speakers that are not too hot, sometimes marketed as party speakers, they can sound terrible. On the other hand the well designed pro speakers can be hifi. The driver's method of construction, paper cones, high efficiency, horns etc can produce very high quality sound when you choose the right ones.
No, i wouldn't. Maybe you could drop in to a music store...the kind that sells instruments. Get them to demo some speakers. You may not reach the sound that some here on this forum can achieve, but they'll probably have some good speakers there all the same. Look at 12" and 15" woofer plus horn type two-ways for starters. If you can't find something DIY then you may need to look at used to keep within your price range.
That is not a bad idea there is a guitar center that I used to go to all the time they always have tons of stuff and then I can at least see what the pro audio sounds like.No, i wouldn't. Maybe you could drop in to a music store...the kind that sells instruments. Get them to demo some speakers. You may not reach the sound that some here on this forum can achieve, but they'll probably have some good speakers there all the same. Look at 12" and 15" woofer plus horn type two-ways for starters. If you can't find something DIY then you may need to look at used to keep within your price range.
A quick and dirty sim of that build I proposed before can be found in the attachment below.
The aluminum drivers appear to have a discrepancy between the sensitivity ratings, T/S results, and the sensitivity chart provided, so the box simulation splice at 200hz does not line up (I suspect it would line up better in the real world), however, the sim does prove a workable 2-way with the neo8 if you don't mind some hefty variation in the very top end. The sim at least eases my mind in the suggestion and shows that there aren't any glaring problems around the x-over frequency. I believe that with the 700hz x-over, as long as you get the center-to-center separation of the 10" drivers inside of ~18" (should just barely fit) then it should work acceptably well.
The aluminum drivers appear to have a discrepancy between the sensitivity ratings, T/S results, and the sensitivity chart provided, so the box simulation splice at 200hz does not line up (I suspect it would line up better in the real world), however, the sim does prove a workable 2-way with the neo8 if you don't mind some hefty variation in the very top end. The sim at least eases my mind in the suggestion and shows that there aren't any glaring problems around the x-over frequency. I believe that with the 700hz x-over, as long as you get the center-to-center separation of the 10" drivers inside of ~18" (should just barely fit) then it should work acceptably well.
Attachments
The dayton 10" aluminum drivers are 19% off and only $39 atm I think my dad is going to give them a try in his current boxes. I have a question about matching the midrange's and tweeters with them. We want to run a couple 8 ohm woofers in parallel for a 4 ohm load which the crossovers allow so does that mean the midrange and tweeter's have to also be 4 ohm or does that not matter? I believe the crossovers have a jumper or something on them for low pass section for 4 or 8 ohm so I wasn't sure what I had to do for the mids and highs.
EDIT: Nvm I was reading the questions and answers on the site and it says the low section is designed for either 4 or 8 ohm but the mid and high sections are designed for 8 ohm so I have my answer
EDIT: Nvm I was reading the questions and answers on the site and it says the low section is designed for either 4 or 8 ohm but the mid and high sections are designed for 8 ohm so I have my answer
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This is the one we are wanting to try out: Dayton Audio XO3W-500/4K 3-Way Crossover 500/4,000 Hz 260-152
How is the wattage divided up between each driver low, mid and high? Lets say I am giving the crossover 150wrms would each section see 50wrms or does it send more to the low than the mid and high?
How is the wattage divided up between each driver low, mid and high? Lets say I am giving the crossover 150wrms would each section see 50wrms or does it send more to the low than the mid and high?
I see, that crossover would largely put you closer to the 4 ohm mark for these woofers.
If you break down the music you'd find most of the power in the low ranges, for various reasons. As a rule of thumb it may be reasonable to assume the woofer could handle all of it, but with this crossover frequency it would probably be around half, depending a lot on the music itself.
If you break down the music you'd find most of the power in the low ranges, for various reasons. As a rule of thumb it may be reasonable to assume the woofer could handle all of it, but with this crossover frequency it would probably be around half, depending a lot on the music itself.
My dad listens to mostly rock, jazz, fusion type stuff. parts-express has 4 different dayton crossovers with different cut off points I was looking at the 500 / 4k because it was middle of the road which one would you recommend? 3-WAY CROSSOVERS from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog.
These are the woofers we want to try Dayton Audio DA270-8 10" Aluminum Cone Woofer 295-334
These are the woofers we want to try Dayton Audio DA270-8 10" Aluminum Cone Woofer 295-334
Are you asking if i'm going with a 2" mid? No I was thinking this one:Still going with the 2" mid? That would rather something higher than 500Hz, I think. Power handling (and other things) may suffer.
Goldwood GM-85/8 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 8 Ohm 280-115
I'm still deciding on what type of tweeter cone, dome, ribbon, etc.
Oh yea your right I was looking at FS and not frequency range so I'm thinking this crossover then http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-156&scqty=1 its the highest frequency for mid there is. That does create a problem for 700-800hz tho hmm. I don't know how to build crossovers so I'm kind of stuck here.As far as how low you ought to cross it, this handles less low end than the dome. Maybe 800Hz or higher could be reasonable?
I could buy a crossover for each driver but I just don't know how to wire them all together so that they equal a final 4 ohms.
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