9EUR for the board and 16EUR shipping to USA from MPAudio adds to 25EUR or 27.50USD at today's Forex rates.
I would have to say that the majority of consumer electronics does not have the more expensive ENIG plating, so you are saying that the majority of the equipment that you own and is for sale, is cheap and low quality = rubbish.
You are speaking about a cheap test fixture that does not require ENIG plating period, doing so and advising others as such is a waste of $ and bad advise IMO.
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a)Where do you find the advise besides your imagination?
b)Why do you generalize about the consumer electronics on the thread about Quasimodo?
c) What's good about lead containing HASL besides price?
d) Do you realize that the low price is not the dominant criteria for everyone thus rending "s a waste of $ and bad advise IMO." as a senseless statement?
I put this out there for others to read in contest to your opinions and advise, sorry that it hurts your feelings. It is for them to decide what they wish to do.
I do not like to see people wasting their $ on bad advise, that is why I was compelled to state my opinion and challenge yours. If they wish to use ENIG that is up to them, but it is not required, esp for this cheap test fixture.
BTW, I build all my pwb's with leaded HASL and hand solder using glow core no-clean eutectic solder, it is the best for DIYAudio and hobby imo. I have used gold platings on pwb's since the the 90's when I when I worked as a pcb designer at HP. It not like I am blowing this advise out my back end.
You need to read more about pwb assembly and plating rather than one article. I am done here.
I do not like to see people wasting their $ on bad advise, that is why I was compelled to state my opinion and challenge yours. If they wish to use ENIG that is up to them, but it is not required, esp for this cheap test fixture.
BTW, I build all my pwb's with leaded HASL and hand solder using glow core no-clean eutectic solder, it is the best for DIYAudio and hobby imo. I have used gold platings on pwb's since the the 90's when I when I worked as a pcb designer at HP. It not like I am blowing this advise out my back end.
You need to read more about pwb assembly and plating rather than one article. I am done here.
With such in depth skills in the PCB assembly (I assume that's the correct spelling for 'pwb assembly'), the skill to comprehend the main topic is definitely lacking. Let me open it up for you. The PCB prices vary. One may get a Quasimodo V4 TH PCB at price points varying between $1 per board and $36 per board depending how one counts and with variety of options on shipping, sourcing, color, plating, etc. As for requirements, BOM does not spell any as for color of the PCB board, density of the copper layer or thickness of PCB, quality of finish, long term impact on the environment from lead, etc. I agree 100% on the point. Any other deep thoughts perhaps are correct due to 'the expertise from 90" on PCB design at HP', but they are just irrelevant to the specific topic being too generic.
P.S. Was it a graduation requirement for PCB designers at HP to talk in terms of "blowing advises from their back-ends"?
I guess I am not done yet.
Yes, we blew lots of good ideas out our back ends, esp on Thursdays nights, our beer nights out, to unwind from the grind
I use jlcpcb now for most designs, excellent service and the default processes for most designs, the rest is cosmetics and slows down the build cycle for me, adds no value. Cu weight, 2oz, only on higher currents on one PS design I do, plus it adds stiffness and less warping on a big area pwb. Use what is required, but do not waste $ for no good reason.
You assemble a pwb with comps to make a pcb or assembly = old school just like I design in mil, but make footprints using both mil and mm. I route on 1mil and place comps on 25 mil, using 25 mil (0.635 mm) place outlines. Change to 5mil placing for tight stuff.
I do not care about ROHS/REACH for a test fixture or DIYAudio that will last forever, that is for consumer throw a way electronics. like your cell phone.
Anything else you need to know about layout?
Yes, we blew lots of good ideas out our back ends, esp on Thursdays nights, our beer nights out, to unwind from the grind
I use jlcpcb now for most designs, excellent service and the default processes for most designs, the rest is cosmetics and slows down the build cycle for me, adds no value. Cu weight, 2oz, only on higher currents on one PS design I do, plus it adds stiffness and less warping on a big area pwb. Use what is required, but do not waste $ for no good reason.
You assemble a pwb with comps to make a pcb or assembly = old school just like I design in mil, but make footprints using both mil and mm. I route on 1mil and place comps on 25 mil, using 25 mil (0.635 mm) place outlines. Change to 5mil placing for tight stuff.
I do not care about ROHS/REACH for a test fixture or DIYAudio that will last forever, that is for consumer throw a way electronics. like your cell phone.
Anything else you need to know about layout?
My "preferred vendors" for PCBs tend to change over time. Often I'll stumble across a new one I haven't used before, with better prices / better quality / quicker turnaround / better service than the ones I'm currently using. So I try the new vendor and if it's a good experience, I add them to the list.
Over the past six or seven years, my preferred vendors have included
And today the ones I use are JLCPCB and Elecrow. If for some reason, I were to make another batch of Quasimodo V4 thru-hole boards, from the Gerber files attached to post #1 in this thread, I'd order from JLCPCB and I'm confident the boards would be satisfactory in every way.
Over the past six or seven years, my preferred vendors have included
- OSHPark
- Seeeed Studio
- ShenZhen2U
- Dirty PCBs
- SmartPrototyping
- PCBWay
- AllPCB
- Elecrow
- JLCPCB
I start to believe that you did not get my point..that is ok.
I am sure you are a wonderful PCB designer and I saw that people like what you are doing, it is great.
One day my wife told me
"I going to buy a purse, but don't be worry i will not choose a Louis Vuitton I am going to buy a very nice bag much cheaper, but it is greatly enough for what I need".
I agreed....Why to buy something that do not feet your need and/or you can not afford.
Great....Sorry Mark , but it is time to come back to your threat...
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I use EuroCircuits or Aisler, both made in the EU. They are much more expensive, but they have great online tools and I know they'll be right.
I use mostly HASL finish, even though "any lead-free finish" is the cheapest option (due to easier pooling). Trouble is you might end up with a gold left channel and a silver right channel, which my OCD will not abide.
Cheers,
Jeff.
PS: keep in mind that GB organisers are doing a community service. They are not a business. Nothing compels anyone to join a GB: if one doesn't like the choices the organiser made (and thus the pricing), they are free (even encouraged) to organise their own.
I use mostly HASL finish, even though "any lead-free finish" is the cheapest option (due to easier pooling). Trouble is you might end up with a gold left channel and a silver right channel, which my OCD will not abide.
Cheers,
Jeff.
PS: keep in mind that GB organisers are doing a community service. They are not a business. Nothing compels anyone to join a GB: if one doesn't like the choices the organiser made (and thus the pricing), they are free (even encouraged) to organise their own.
BTW when I ship PCBs to diyAudio members outside the US, I put them in bubble mailer envelopes and use the Post Office's product called
First-Class Package International Service
This morning I screen-grabbed their price list, and attached it below. Except for our nearest neighbors, Mexico and Canada, shipping costs are more or less identical to the rest of the world. 1 PCB plus envelope and stamps and label and tape will weigh about 2 ounces.
~
First-Class Package International Service
This morning I screen-grabbed their price list, and attached it below. Except for our nearest neighbors, Mexico and Canada, shipping costs are more or less identical to the rest of the world. 1 PCB plus envelope and stamps and label and tape will weigh about 2 ounces.
~
Attachments
Eventually I did. It's in a small, single purpose "PSU for Chipamps" that has none of the options and features and builder-choices which provide universality in the diyAudio Store "Universal Power Supply PCB". So it's a much smaller PCB, allowing a much smaller chassis for a stereo power amp, which uses very small chipamp boards for its two amplifier channels.
The board is discussed in this thread , and the circuit schematic is attached below. Click on the image to see it full size and then click on the "expand me" icon at the lower left corner of the popup image. Component values implement a damping factor not equal to 1.0 ; for this PCB, I chose values that I think are best in this application. Following my own advice, repeated several times on this thread: "If you know what you're doing, set the damping factor to whatever value you like. If you don't know what you're doing, set the damping factor to 1.00."
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Thanks for the great project! I have 9 extra boards that I ordered from Seeed. Happy to share with fellow members. $3 shipped in the US will cover production costs and shipping. I will ship overseas, but will need to calculate extra shipping. PM me if interested.
PB sent
. Looking forward to build the boards and do some testing (and providing myself with an excellent excuse to finally buy a proper scope for Christmas).