Easy, 10 Ohm 2W total or individual resistance where says 2X68R. Both sides. And sinking the MOSFETS.
Its OK, healthy. The rails are 0.62V apart though which is not too common in a DCB1 with matched LEDS. You may just try the leg trick too for even less offset (maybe).
Thanks!
It sounds great! And I must say, the sound gets better with every day passing.
I did some more, I changed the 220R and 220K resistors to Kiwame and the 1M ones to Audio Note tantalum.
Must say that I'm a big fan of Kiwame resistors. They are also in my Hiraga amp, and I tried everything
They sound nice and transparent yet warm.
I will stick with the small time hotrod version
Thanks for the nice design and all the help! It certaintly sounds better than the standard B1....
It sounds great! And I must say, the sound gets better with every day passing.
I did some more, I changed the 220R and 220K resistors to Kiwame and the 1M ones to Audio Note tantalum.
Must say that I'm a big fan of Kiwame resistors. They are also in my Hiraga amp, and I tried everything
They sound nice and transparent yet warm.
I will stick with the small time hotrod version
Thanks for the nice design and all the help! It certaintly sounds better than the standard B1....
I sat down with a bag of 50 LEDs last night and measured them out. A few questions:
1) For grouping, how critical is the match? Can a 1.741 be grouped with a 1.743V?
2) How exactly do these need to be matched on the boards? Is it more critical that all 8 per side have the same value (group of 5 and group of 3) OR, is it that each group (either 3 or 5) be matched with the pair on the opposite side of the board (group of 5 matched to group of 5, then a group of 3 matched to a group of 3)? If the latter, is it OK if, on the same side of the board, the group of 3 and the group of 5 have different values, as long as it's in the same ballpark?
1) For grouping, how critical is the match? Can a 1.741 be grouped with a 1.743V?
2) How exactly do these need to be matched on the boards? Is it more critical that all 8 per side have the same value (group of 5 and group of 3) OR, is it that each group (either 3 or 5) be matched with the pair on the opposite side of the board (group of 5 matched to group of 5, then a group of 3 matched to a group of 3)? If the latter, is it OK if, on the same side of the board, the group of 3 and the group of 5 have different values, as long as it's in the same ballpark?
Another bonehead question:
If I wanted to use my selector switch (the second set of poles not being used) to switch a row of LEDs to mark the indicator or which input is being used, is it best to switch the pos. or neg. leads of the LEDs? I assume the pos. lead. Is there a critical value for the power indicating LED? Would a 2.6V max Vf, 5V max Vr, 25mA max If LED be OK?
If I wanted to use my selector switch (the second set of poles not being used) to switch a row of LEDs to mark the indicator or which input is being used, is it best to switch the pos. or neg. leads of the LEDs? I assume the pos. lead. Is there a critical value for the power indicating LED? Would a 2.6V max Vf, 5V max Vr, 25mA max If LED be OK?
LED matching: You want the group of 5 and the group of 3 to each be as close as possible to the target voltage in the build guide. The individual LED Vf doesn't matter, just the groups.
For indicator LED's, the voltage is relatively unimportant, but you need to limit the current. So steal some from the 12V regulator used to drive the relays. You probably want about 10mA through an LED to be decently bright, so select a series resistor which will give you that much current. Let's assume you are using 2Vf yellow LED's (these do not need to be matched, just in the same ballpark). So the regulator gives you 12V, the LED will drop about 2V, leaving 10V to drop across the resistor. What size resistor will drop 10V while passing 0.010A?
And no, it doesn't matter which end of the diode you put the switch on, the circuit is either closed or open.
For indicator LED's, the voltage is relatively unimportant, but you need to limit the current. So steal some from the 12V regulator used to drive the relays. You probably want about 10mA through an LED to be decently bright, so select a series resistor which will give you that much current. Let's assume you are using 2Vf yellow LED's (these do not need to be matched, just in the same ballpark). So the regulator gives you 12V, the LED will drop about 2V, leaving 10V to drop across the resistor. What size resistor will drop 10V while passing 0.010A?
And no, it doesn't matter which end of the diode you put the switch on, the circuit is either closed or open.