Easy, 10 Ohm 2W total or individual resistance where says 2X68R. Both sides. And sinking the MOSFETS.
What voltage can you measure across the diodes near the working input relay and the output one?
Problem. Change the BC 550 in the relay area first and make sure of orientations. Have you got BC550 and BC517 types there?
I changed the transistor (BC550B) . But the problem still exists.
Maybe my transistors are defective.
Tomorrow I will try the Zener diode. This idea sounds good.
Thank you Salas. 🙂
Maybe my transistors are defective.
Tomorrow I will try the Zener diode. This idea sounds good.
Thank you Salas. 🙂
V EBO is 5VDC in the datasheet but if its higher in a batch or manufacturer then it will not do it for 5V relays. Although it always used to in the past 5V builds. Get a 4.3V 0.5W Zener too.
Okay, it works now.
Measurements are:
Offset: L= -3.7 mV; R= -3.8V mV
Current set resistors (22R||22R): 1,6V/1.75V
10.47V; -9.85V
I hope, this is okay.
Measurements are:
Offset: L= -3.7 mV; R= -3.8V mV
Current set resistors (22R||22R): 1,6V/1.75V
10.47V; -9.85V
I hope, this is okay.
Its OK, healthy. The rails are 0.62V apart though which is not too common in a DCB1 with matched LEDS. You may just try the leg trick too for even less offset (maybe).
Hi Salas, I changed the 68R resistors into 10R 2Watt types and mounted heatsinks on de fets.
Sound better!!! Thanks for the tip!
Sjoerd
Sound better!!! Thanks for the tip!
Sjoerd
Small time hotrodded. There have been 2000mA extremists in the Hypnotize threads.😀
(200mA is safe for Mez use no more)
(200mA is safe for Mez use no more)
Thanks!
It sounds great! And I must say, the sound gets better with every day passing.
I did some more, I changed the 220R and 220K resistors to Kiwame and the 1M ones to Audio Note tantalum.
Must say that I'm a big fan of Kiwame resistors. They are also in my Hiraga amp, and I tried everything 🙂
They sound nice and transparent yet warm.
I will stick with the small time hotrod version 🙂
Thanks for the nice design and all the help! It certaintly sounds better than the standard B1....
It sounds great! And I must say, the sound gets better with every day passing.
I did some more, I changed the 220R and 220K resistors to Kiwame and the 1M ones to Audio Note tantalum.
Must say that I'm a big fan of Kiwame resistors. They are also in my Hiraga amp, and I tried everything 🙂
They sound nice and transparent yet warm.
I will stick with the small time hotrod version 🙂
Thanks for the nice design and all the help! It certaintly sounds better than the standard B1....
Why do you want to modify the output to sound Warm?
Are you referring to extra 2nd harmonic distortion?
Are you referring to extra 2nd harmonic distortion?
I sat down with a bag of 50 LEDs last night and measured them out. A few questions:
1) For grouping, how critical is the match? Can a 1.741 be grouped with a 1.743V?
2) How exactly do these need to be matched on the boards? Is it more critical that all 8 per side have the same value (group of 5 and group of 3) OR, is it that each group (either 3 or 5) be matched with the pair on the opposite side of the board (group of 5 matched to group of 5, then a group of 3 matched to a group of 3)? If the latter, is it OK if, on the same side of the board, the group of 3 and the group of 5 have different values, as long as it's in the same ballpark?
1) For grouping, how critical is the match? Can a 1.741 be grouped with a 1.743V?
2) How exactly do these need to be matched on the boards? Is it more critical that all 8 per side have the same value (group of 5 and group of 3) OR, is it that each group (either 3 or 5) be matched with the pair on the opposite side of the board (group of 5 matched to group of 5, then a group of 3 matched to a group of 3)? If the latter, is it OK if, on the same side of the board, the group of 3 and the group of 5 have different values, as long as it's in the same ballpark?
Another bonehead question:
If I wanted to use my selector switch (the second set of poles not being used) to switch a row of LEDs to mark the indicator or which input is being used, is it best to switch the pos. or neg. leads of the LEDs? I assume the pos. lead. Is there a critical value for the power indicating LED? Would a 2.6V max Vf, 5V max Vr, 25mA max If LED be OK?
If I wanted to use my selector switch (the second set of poles not being used) to switch a row of LEDs to mark the indicator or which input is being used, is it best to switch the pos. or neg. leads of the LEDs? I assume the pos. lead. Is there a critical value for the power indicating LED? Would a 2.6V max Vf, 5V max Vr, 25mA max If LED be OK?
LED matching: You want the group of 5 and the group of 3 to each be as close as possible to the target voltage in the build guide. The individual LED Vf doesn't matter, just the groups.
For indicator LED's, the voltage is relatively unimportant, but you need to limit the current. So steal some from the 12V regulator used to drive the relays. You probably want about 10mA through an LED to be decently bright, so select a series resistor which will give you that much current. Let's assume you are using 2Vf yellow LED's (these do not need to be matched, just in the same ballpark). So the regulator gives you 12V, the LED will drop about 2V, leaving 10V to drop across the resistor. What size resistor will drop 10V while passing 0.010A?
And no, it doesn't matter which end of the diode you put the switch on, the circuit is either closed or open.
For indicator LED's, the voltage is relatively unimportant, but you need to limit the current. So steal some from the 12V regulator used to drive the relays. You probably want about 10mA through an LED to be decently bright, so select a series resistor which will give you that much current. Let's assume you are using 2Vf yellow LED's (these do not need to be matched, just in the same ballpark). So the regulator gives you 12V, the LED will drop about 2V, leaving 10V to drop across the resistor. What size resistor will drop 10V while passing 0.010A?
And no, it doesn't matter which end of the diode you put the switch on, the circuit is either closed or open.