Congrats 32y0, now you can sit down and enjoy your creation!
Are the crossovers external?
Reminds me I should post a finsihed pic of mine.
I have a hotrodded Yaqin MC100b driving mine. I also have an ELEKIT TU8600SVK on the way (300b SET kit with Lundaul output trans), so it will interesting to see how well it drives the Els compared to the MC100.
Are the crossovers external?
Reminds me I should post a finsihed pic of mine.
I have a hotrodded Yaqin MC100b driving mine. I also have an ELEKIT TU8600SVK on the way (300b SET kit with Lundaul output trans), so it will interesting to see how well it drives the Els compared to the MC100.
Ha, cool, they have a very familiar look
How did you treat the metal sheets to get the "look"?
Ha, cool, they have a very familiar look
How did you treat the metal sheets to get the "look"?
Yes, definitely stole that from you ;-)
I just left them outside for a couple of months.
Can someone check/thinking the following:
I like to double the bottom bass driver what will add to the top like the "picture". Is it enough add a single 3,9mH inductor series like the original bass use or lower the crossover point and use a higher one ~12mH achieve 150Hz
I like to double the bottom bass driver what will add to the top like the "picture". Is it enough add a single 3,9mH inductor series like the original bass use or lower the crossover point and use a higher one ~12mH achieve 150Hz
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additional waveguide for tweeter is also required, it might be better to build entirely new cabinet with only the tweeter can be re-used
Don't forget that the waveguide on the Mk6 is now different for the tweeter. The main challenge appears to be modifying the baffle to accept the new midbass drivers and waveguide. If the Mk3 midbass drivers were not rebated on the baffle, and if you have really good router and jig making skill, you could re-route the baffle for the new midbass drivers, with the proper rebate for the new drivers. I think the hole in the baffle is about the same for the back of the driver. Also looks like one could cut a rectangular piece of 1"MDF to fill in the original tweeter waveguide recess and re-route the baffle for the new waveguide. But have to check the existing mounting depth to insure the waveguide will install flush with the baffle. You might be able to find/make a rectangular waveguide to the correct profile (i.e., make the filler piece the waveguide).
Depending on your table saw skills, you might be able to cut off the old baffle from the cabinet and make and fasten on a new baffle. It will be tricky as well, but with a good saw, a great fence, and careful measurements of where the baffle ends, you can cut off the baffle without losing internal volume. You may have to cut off the tweeter rear brace after you cut off the main baffle. This assumes no screws were used in the original build (i.e., all glued up construction).
The crossover change to the Mk5 would be the easiest path. Updating to the Mk6 is risky considering extensive rework of the baffle, you have to be pretty confident in your skills and careful not to make any mistakes and possibly destroy the cabinet in the process. And you still need to install a new or modified crossover as well.
David
Depending on your table saw skills, you might be able to cut off the old baffle from the cabinet and make and fasten on a new baffle. It will be tricky as well, but with a good saw, a great fence, and careful measurements of where the baffle ends, you can cut off the baffle without losing internal volume. You may have to cut off the tweeter rear brace after you cut off the main baffle. This assumes no screws were used in the original build (i.e., all glued up construction).
The crossover change to the Mk5 would be the easiest path. Updating to the Mk6 is risky considering extensive rework of the baffle, you have to be pretty confident in your skills and careful not to make any mistakes and possibly destroy the cabinet in the process. And you still need to install a new or modified crossover as well.
David
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What are you trying to achieve/enhance when doing this? Your second option would be the simplest with regard to the existing crossover. I'm presuming you would be doing bass tuning in your room.
Still around, but trying times...
The first EL-5 were done using a waveguides excruciatingly handmade by Steve Z to my specs (pairs) and I have one pair still available. You have a 25mm filler (black in pic) and the tweeter is mounted to that, then the grey waveguide is installed in front of that. This can of course be turned into any colour with a spray can of enamel paint.
Fully packed, this is quite heavy and the cost will be need to be added. I note it is United States, so we are looking at AUD $280 (about USD $200).
The time it took for Steve to make these cannot be counted a few dollars, so if you go ahead, you owe him more thanks than you do me.
It can also be used for Mk6, but in this instance the drivers are changed to SB Acoustics and you need to do the
I did exactly this with my own first pair of EL-6, so you have a choice to upgrade to Mk5 with existing Peerless drivers, or Mk6 with new drivers, but you will need to use a router to flush mount the SB Acoustics drivers. Not easy, but I have done it a couple of times.
Cheers, Joe
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