The WD25t is what your looking for. It's an A26 but in a floorstanding cabinet. The crossover will have to be adjusted. There's several versions with upgraded tweeters. After searching online for a slim tower that could be placed close to a wall and had great bass and sound in general, I eventually came across the WD25t, designed by the legend Peter Comaeu for World Designs. Look online and you'll find it. There's lower bass extension than A26 and a refined xo. If you can afford it and really want to have an amazing speaker, go for the WD25t EX (the best version) with the Seas Millennium tweeter (£245 each, approx)
The only reason I didn't build it was that I wanted a higher sensitivity speaker (min 91db) for my 6 watt SET amp. The WD25t was rated at 87dB spl. My current speakers are 89dB so I didn't want to go any lower. But if you're using a 50 watt amp or more, you'll be fine.
If you want something similar to a Devore (or perhaps more like a Tekton Lore) that won't cost the earth, try Pi Speakers. There's a 2 Pi model with the Eminence 10" Alpha, that also comes as a tower kit too. You can buy the kit or ask the owner Wayne for the designs. he's very obliging and helpful. All his speakers can be used with low watt amps.
Both speakers have forums for advice etc.: World Designs. Pi Speakers.
The only reason I didn't build it was that I wanted a higher sensitivity speaker (min 91db) for my 6 watt SET amp. The WD25t was rated at 87dB spl. My current speakers are 89dB so I didn't want to go any lower. But if you're using a 50 watt amp or more, you'll be fine.
If you want something similar to a Devore (or perhaps more like a Tekton Lore) that won't cost the earth, try Pi Speakers. There's a 2 Pi model with the Eminence 10" Alpha, that also comes as a tower kit too. You can buy the kit or ask the owner Wayne for the designs. he's very obliging and helpful. All his speakers can be used with low watt amps.
Both speakers have forums for advice etc.: World Designs. Pi Speakers.
I had luck with b102, but technically not time aligned with woof run wide open and single capped tweet, even though centers lined up and both are 6db down at 2khz and another 6db down an octave away, acoustically 6db, one naturally and the other because of the capacitor.
On a 6db Crossover (cap tweet and inductor woof, for 6db roll offs) are always 90 degrees apart, i get fuzzy here.
But the seas a26 kit has woof wide open and single capped tweet also.
On a 6db Crossover (cap tweet and inductor woof, for 6db roll offs) are always 90 degrees apart, i get fuzzy here.
But the seas a26 kit has woof wide open and single capped tweet also.
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Nice of you to say so adejacko.
What you failed to mention was the WD25T and its EX version, was an aperiodic based loosely on the A35 concept. A larger version using twin A26 drivers, a la A50, would achieve a much higher sensitivity, of course. You'd have to jiggle my crossover for twin drivers but it shouldn't be too difficult to get close to 90-91dB sensitivity. It would be a big speaker, though, so there might be better cabinet solutions to choose from.
I'm honoured Peter. The dimensions of the WD25t are spot on IMO. Plus you've already done all the xo jiggling. I'd rather get a more powerful amp than mess with perfection. I've bought the CR-ROM from Matthew but there wasn't anything on it about the tuning of the cabinet. If I do build it one day I might be asking your advice.
Regards
Ade
Regards
Ade
The tuning of the cabinet essentially follows the concept of the A35 but puts it into a floorstander to extend the baffle to the floor and, because it is relatively shallow, to provide some reduction in baffle step loss in the bass. Remember that the Dynaco designs were usually placed on the floor in their day.
Basically it is a large closed box divided into two chambers with a resistive load between them. The top section is aperiodic reducing the Q of the overall system.
You'll need some method of providing the resistive covering to the opening between the two chambers. You can make a sock filled with fibreglass, as in the Dynaco design, or I still have some of the filter foam I used to good effect if you want to PM me.
Basically it is a large closed box divided into two chambers with a resistive load between them. The top section is aperiodic reducing the Q of the overall system.
You'll need some method of providing the resistive covering to the opening between the two chambers. You can make a sock filled with fibreglass, as in the Dynaco design, or I still have some of the filter foam I used to good effect if you want to PM me.
Looking forward to seeing what Dave Planet10 comes up with for this driver.
Just a few questions/thoughts on what to do with the A26RE4.
Doing a bit of modelling it seems to help if you put a small c.0.5 mH inductor on it when using it with the CAT378. Any one else done it this way. The CAT378 also seems to be sensitivity matched to two A26RE4 which is also interesting.
To the question, if you had a 65l cabinet with a baffle that could take two A26RE4 would you -
1) split it in half and build the standard aperiodic Seas design.
2) use it with one A26RE4 in the full volume sealed
3) Use it in the full volume bass reflex
4) use two A26RE4 in a double of the Seas design (with two aperiodic vents or one double the area)
5) wait to see what Dave Planet 10 comes up with
Finally if you were to use two A26RE4 and had the ability to tri amp would you combine them after the inductor (Bi amp) or use one inductors per speaker (tri amp)?
Sorry lots of questions and option but trying to think things through out loud.
Just a few questions/thoughts on what to do with the A26RE4.
Doing a bit of modelling it seems to help if you put a small c.0.5 mH inductor on it when using it with the CAT378. Any one else done it this way. The CAT378 also seems to be sensitivity matched to two A26RE4 which is also interesting.
To the question, if you had a 65l cabinet with a baffle that could take two A26RE4 would you -
1) split it in half and build the standard aperiodic Seas design.
2) use it with one A26RE4 in the full volume sealed
3) Use it in the full volume bass reflex
4) use two A26RE4 in a double of the Seas design (with two aperiodic vents or one double the area)
5) wait to see what Dave Planet 10 comes up with
Finally if you were to use two A26RE4 and had the ability to tri amp would you combine them after the inductor (Bi amp) or use one inductors per speaker (tri amp)?
Sorry lots of questions and option but trying to think things through out loud.
3) If you use two drivers in 65ltr you'll have less low frequency extension than a single driver.
With a single driver, tuned nice and low, the driver is hardly moving at the tuning frequency because the port is doing all the work, and at such a low frequency it would normally be moving a LOT. So it will go louder than sealed, sound more balanced because it's producing deeper bass, and I doubt there'd be much difference (if at all) in subjective speed or agility because most of the midbass is coming from the driver, and not the port.
70 litres. Mostly finished this AM. Sealed. Aperidic is so you can tame the bass of a too small an enclosure.
Here is a teaser:
dave
rule of thumb. Bezels of the tweeter/woofer line up on one side and the tweeter is as close to the woofer as possible (offset 10mm to make rebating less tricky… i might trim the tweeter bezel and nest it right up to the woofer.
I would do the same with the A26 aperiodic, but i have used the factory baffle placement for those.
I do use sw to get the woofer placement. A little bit of math on a duplicate of the baffle extents (divide by the Golden Ratio) in the CAD sw.
dave
I would do the same with the A26 aperiodic, but i have used the factory baffle placement for those.
I do use sw to get the woofer placement. A little bit of math on a duplicate of the baffle extents (divide by the Golden Ratio) in the CAD sw.
dave