Let's see if I can navigate my way through this.
You will take the 16.5cm woofer out of the 'sub' and combine it with a mid/high frequency driver from one of the other speakers (either a corner or the centre).
You intend to buy another system identical to the one you have so that you can get hold of a second 16.5cm woofer to combine with another mid/high driver.
How does the above description sound to you? Am I understanding your intentions?
Photos of the existing speakers should make things absolutely clear.
You will take the 16.5cm woofer out of the 'sub' and combine it with a mid/high frequency driver from one of the other speakers (either a corner or the centre).
You intend to buy another system identical to the one you have so that you can get hold of a second 16.5cm woofer to combine with another mid/high driver.
How does the above description sound to you? Am I understanding your intentions?
Photos of the existing speakers should make things absolutely clear.
I've attached your images for easier access.
The small speaker is a 'full range' driver which will work OK as a 'tweeter'.
Since it has an open back, the 'tweeter' must be boxed in to protect it from the bass waves of the woofer i.e. the 'tweeter' must be housed in a small box within the main box.
Other than that, you can go ahead with my simple connection plan and see how it goes.
The small speaker is a 'full range' driver which will work OK as a 'tweeter'.
Since it has an open back, the 'tweeter' must be boxed in to protect it from the bass waves of the woofer i.e. the 'tweeter' must be housed in a small box within the main box.
Other than that, you can go ahead with my simple connection plan and see how it goes.
Attachments
It does not matter. In fact, both the wattages and the impedances are working in our favour!
EDIT: Here's the techie stuff!
The amplifier will basically see a 4 ohm impedance i.e. that of the woofer.
The tweeter is normally of a lower power handling than the woofer since high frequencies carry less power than bass frequencies.
EDIT: Here's the techie stuff!
The amplifier will basically see a 4 ohm impedance i.e. that of the woofer.
The tweeter is normally of a lower power handling than the woofer since high frequencies carry less power than bass frequencies.
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I'm betting the sub woofer will filter out the high frequencies itself without the need for additional electrical filtering.
Try it first with the capacitor alone.
We can improve the crossover arrangements if the simple arrangement turns out to be unsatisfactory.
The key thing in the diy you are undertaking is to experiment. Let's take it stage by stage!
Try it first with the capacitor alone.
We can improve the crossover arrangements if the simple arrangement turns out to be unsatisfactory.
The key thing in the diy you are undertaking is to experiment. Let's take it stage by stage!
Allright. Originally i wanted a surefire way, because stuff from china arrives super slow. And in my own country they basically sell the same stuff with a hefty price increase. Nevermind the fact that they charge the same postal fee on a single resistor as they would on a complete home theater system. Anyway, i'll order the amp and that capacitor you told me then i will see how it works out. I'll be back i a month or so. Thank you for all the help, and for being so patient. Have a nice day!
The elephant in the room (I hope you can translate that phrase!) is that you haven't talked about the new boxes you are going to build to house your woofers and tweeters.
The boxes should be of the same internal volume (plus a bit more to allow for the volume of the internal tweeter boxes) as the boxes the subwoofer drivers are currently occupying.
If the old sub boxes are ported, then you should include the same length and diameter of port tunnel in your new build.
If any further help is needed, do come back. A future update would be appreciated.
The boxes should be of the same internal volume (plus a bit more to allow for the volume of the internal tweeter boxes) as the boxes the subwoofer drivers are currently occupying.
If the old sub boxes are ported, then you should include the same length and diameter of port tunnel in your new build.
If any further help is needed, do come back. A future update would be appreciated.
The new box will be bigger than the original one.
The OG is 16x30x35, while the new one will be 25x65x35. So it is well over twice the size.
The plan is something like this.
Because it has to be the same size as the top of the furniture itself.
I haven't decide on an arrangement on the new one yet, as to where to put the tweeter and the sub, then the reflex. Is it bad to have a much larger box than the original one?
Because in that case i could add some internal walls, and that would allow me tokeep the external size.
The OG is 16x30x35, while the new one will be 25x65x35. So it is well over twice the size.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The plan is something like this.
Because it has to be the same size as the top of the furniture itself.
I haven't decide on an arrangement on the new one yet, as to where to put the tweeter and the sub, then the reflex. Is it bad to have a much larger box than the original one?
Because in that case i could add some internal walls, and that would allow me tokeep the external size.
Allright, i will use internal walls and try to make it the same volume, but i can't position it the same way. By the way, we skipped some of my questions i think.
Would this amp be better than the one i was eyeing, or anything else at similar price.
This one has better controlls.
ZK TB21 TPA3116D2 Bluetooth 5.0 Subwoofer Amplifier Board 50WX2+100W 2.1 Channel Power Audio Stereo Amplifier Board Bass AMP|Amplifier| - AliExpress
The other question is if i can just use the pc sound card software to adjust bass/trebble?
Would this amp be better than the one i was eyeing, or anything else at similar price.
This one has better controlls.
ZK TB21 TPA3116D2 Bluetooth 5.0 Subwoofer Amplifier Board 50WX2+100W 2.1 Channel Power Audio Stereo Amplifier Board Bass AMP|Amplifier| - AliExpress
The other question is if i can just use the pc sound card software to adjust bass/trebble?
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It was late when I answered last night, so here's some more information.
You will need a stereo amplifier i.e. 2 channels (left & right) like the 50Wx2 one to which you first referred.
The amplifier to which you now refer contains BOTH a stereo amplifier (the 50Wx2 part) AND an additional amplifier for a separate subwoofer enclosure (the +100W part). You do not need the +100W part as you won't have a dedicated subwoofer enclosure, just two stereo speaker boxes.
Hope this explanation helps you with your choice of amplifier. If the amp has its own tone controls, I would regard that as a bonus.
You will need a stereo amplifier i.e. 2 channels (left & right) like the 50Wx2 one to which you first referred.
The amplifier to which you now refer contains BOTH a stereo amplifier (the 50Wx2 part) AND an additional amplifier for a separate subwoofer enclosure (the +100W part). You do not need the +100W part as you won't have a dedicated subwoofer enclosure, just two stereo speaker boxes.
Hope this explanation helps you with your choice of amplifier. If the amp has its own tone controls, I would regard that as a bonus.
Allright. I imagined i would use the 2 sides only, leaving the 100w sub out of the equation.
There is some other questions that came to mind while i was thinking.
What if i leave the smaller speaker full range, does that change anything?
The next one is not something i plan buti seen it once.
Is there a risk of damage to any component if i connect 2 speakers to a single side directly? Or it just decreases the output?
There is some other questions that came to mind while i was thinking.
What if i leave the smaller speaker full range, does that change anything?
The next one is not something i plan buti seen it once.
Is there a risk of damage to any component if i connect 2 speakers to a single side directly? Or it just decreases the output?
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