Good afternoon Freddi and Pelanj,
i would be very interested in such a "in between" K-tube as well.
Currently i have a 1" and a 1,4" fieldcoil Von Langa driver. These are almost the same; differences are the colour (who cares) and throat-diameter.
Till now i had the 1.4" and had to use a throat adapter (1.4-to-1) to fix them to the original K-tubes. It worked but that downsizing throat adapter acts as a high roll-off filter (in a tweeter ?!).
A couple of weeks ago i scored the same driver with a 1" throat. A natural match for that original K-tube. The highs are better and more crisp.
A throat adapter is acceptable when flaring out; flaring in restricts clearly.
So for my 1.4" (fully acceptable with a 1.5") i would love to have a set K-tubes so i could bolt them on directly.
Regards,
Reinout
(the blank metal drivers are 1.4"; the black ones are 1")(so at the 1.4" i hed to down-converse to 1".....not wise )
i would be very interested in such a "in between" K-tube as well.
Currently i have a 1" and a 1,4" fieldcoil Von Langa driver. These are almost the same; differences are the colour (who cares) and throat-diameter.
Till now i had the 1.4" and had to use a throat adapter (1.4-to-1) to fix them to the original K-tubes. It worked but that downsizing throat adapter acts as a high roll-off filter (in a tweeter ?!).
A couple of weeks ago i scored the same driver with a 1" throat. A natural match for that original K-tube. The highs are better and more crisp.
A throat adapter is acceptable when flaring out; flaring in restricts clearly.
So for my 1.4" (fully acceptable with a 1.5") i would love to have a set K-tubes so i could bolt them on directly.
Regards,
Reinout
(the blank metal drivers are 1.4"; the black ones are 1")(so at the 1.4" i hed to down-converse to 1".....not wise )
Attachments
And a 2" version would be of interest also ! Currently i use an oversized 3" which AGAIN needs an adapter i don't want. Simply because i couldn't get the correct pipe-diameters.
For the 2" version i'm looking for the standard 4 bolt fixation holes that all 2" drivers use.
Regards,
Reinout
For the 2" version i'm looking for the standard 4 bolt fixation holes that all 2" drivers use.
Regards,
Reinout
another WvL pair 😀😀
Do you had the chance to test the Radian diaphragms in the meantime?
Good evening Docali,
very very pleased to have these 2 pairs WvL's; they're simply that good.
Also the 1" version had the original GPA-diaphragm's. Good metal-workmanship and soldering but again glue-nightmares. I don't know what they do there but too much = too much. That glue clogs the surround-part of the diaphragms and impairs the highs.
Of course i ordered the Radian's but they're still in backorder; so i have to wait.
So at this time i'm mainly focussed on the 1 watt tweeter-amp......as soon as this in finished i'll post the results.
Regards, Reinout
very very pleased to have these 2 pairs WvL's; they're simply that good.
Also the 1" version had the original GPA-diaphragm's. Good metal-workmanship and soldering but again glue-nightmares. I don't know what they do there but too much = too much. That glue clogs the surround-part of the diaphragms and impairs the highs.
Of course i ordered the Radian's but they're still in backorder; so i have to wait.
So at this time i'm mainly focussed on the 1 watt tweeter-amp......as soon as this in finished i'll post the results.
Regards, Reinout
I can make a 3D model of any diameter and lenght based on the 1" tube. All I need is a simple sketch of the mounting plate, tube ID, slot length and total length. I might be able to control the wall thickness also, but I would have to look into that.
for my ~1.5X scaled Transylvania "The Tube" wish , my driver's exit ~38mm. There are four bolts spaced ~4" /102mm across from each other. The driver's flat face is roughly 5 inches in diameter. If I can get a piece of ABS 1.5" schedule pipe then might whittle one.
my 1.5" driver at nearly 6kg is probably too heavy to support by a printed base and would work better printed just as the cylindrical tube.
9mm or 12mm plywood would provide support and the tube just press fit into a hole in the plywood.
9mm or 12mm plywood would provide support and the tube just press fit into a hole in the plywood.
@ ReinoutdV
It might be interesting with your Transylvania "The Tube"'s 2nd order highpass to employ charge coupling. That can get pricey with boutique capacitors. It might work pretty well with MGBO (metalized paper) and KGB (paper/foil) capacitors.
Have you tried battery biasing of crossovers?
What are the C and L values for your Transylvania Tube's crossover?
(Those field coil drivers are gorgeous.)
Here's a K-horn Type A I did with MBGO caps
It might be interesting with your Transylvania "The Tube"'s 2nd order highpass to employ charge coupling. That can get pricey with boutique capacitors. It might work pretty well with MGBO (metalized paper) and KGB (paper/foil) capacitors.
Have you tried battery biasing of crossovers?
What are the C and L values for your Transylvania Tube's crossover?
(Those field coil drivers are gorgeous.)
Here's a K-horn Type A I did with MBGO caps
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Good morning Freddi,
1. our drivers seem to be too heavy for a simple 3D-printed K-tube. Currently my 1" version is foxed on a base-plate whereas the 2" version has a full metal / threaded base plate. That last one oozes quality so that's the way forward for me. Also of note that plain 3D-printed K-tubes can resonate. I don't like that but i don't like the simple solutions (cladding the exterior with something) either. So our current K-tubes are made from 2 thermally bonded exact fitting tubes (outer one is metal; inner tube is a plastic). This works.
I'm trying with a CNC-solution to have the answer for both an integral metal base plate and the resonation. As soon as i have it ready i'll post the result.
2. Not too keen on those Russian caps you use. I tried a lot, and of course this is a matter of taste, but these will not in my filter. Other (Russian) caps will be ! At this moment i'm fine-tuning the XO's with bypass-caps. Some of them are OK, some of them certainly not.
Again: i'll post pictures when i'm done.
3. CNC is seriously expensive. First i'm going to do the classic K-tube before exploring double slot versions.
4. With a couple of active crossovers and my current stash of audio-components (oodles of funny caps here....) i've found out i like to crossover the lows actively. This saves the huge bass-coil. There are amazing coils out there (for another project i've used a Mundorf VN390 15 mH ....) but they took away the something of the speed/control of the bass. So active !
Mid/high can be crossed quite easily wth passive components. Again using the active XO's i've found out that my drivers and set-up responded nicely to a 2nd order 4K2-XO frequency. So a 3,3 uF cap and a 0,42 mH coil will do. I've got caps enough here but for the coils i tried different versions/types/manufacturors and found myself happy with the VLCU10's.
Main focus this time is a dedicated tweeter-amp; the CNC-stuff is requested but will take months.
Regards,
Reinout
1. our drivers seem to be too heavy for a simple 3D-printed K-tube. Currently my 1" version is foxed on a base-plate whereas the 2" version has a full metal / threaded base plate. That last one oozes quality so that's the way forward for me. Also of note that plain 3D-printed K-tubes can resonate. I don't like that but i don't like the simple solutions (cladding the exterior with something) either. So our current K-tubes are made from 2 thermally bonded exact fitting tubes (outer one is metal; inner tube is a plastic). This works.
I'm trying with a CNC-solution to have the answer for both an integral metal base plate and the resonation. As soon as i have it ready i'll post the result.
2. Not too keen on those Russian caps you use. I tried a lot, and of course this is a matter of taste, but these will not in my filter. Other (Russian) caps will be ! At this moment i'm fine-tuning the XO's with bypass-caps. Some of them are OK, some of them certainly not.
Again: i'll post pictures when i'm done.
3. CNC is seriously expensive. First i'm going to do the classic K-tube before exploring double slot versions.
4. With a couple of active crossovers and my current stash of audio-components (oodles of funny caps here....) i've found out i like to crossover the lows actively. This saves the huge bass-coil. There are amazing coils out there (for another project i've used a Mundorf VN390 15 mH ....) but they took away the something of the speed/control of the bass. So active !
Mid/high can be crossed quite easily wth passive components. Again using the active XO's i've found out that my drivers and set-up responded nicely to a 2nd order 4K2-XO frequency. So a 3,3 uF cap and a 0,42 mH coil will do. I've got caps enough here but for the coils i tried different versions/types/manufacturors and found myself happy with the VLCU10's.
Main focus this time is a dedicated tweeter-amp; the CNC-stuff is requested but will take months.
Regards,
Reinout
Reviving this old thread, hopefully someone is still interested in these strange waveguides! I have seen Freddis posts about them over the years, but never got around to trying. Recently I got a 3D printer, and suddenly it is very easy to make some tubes (thanks @pelanj !). I took some drivers I had lying around, Faital HF108, and duct taped the tubes into the centre cell of my Klug multicell horns. DSP crossover at 4K. It looks horrible, but sounds really good! The tubes blend better with the multicells better than other tweeters I have tried, probably because of the similar dispersion. Next week I will try the double slot version.
