Why do you think it needs recapping? Capacitor definitely is not a problematic old bipolar electrolytic, it seems to be a good MKT or MKP, so any cap swapping is dubious.
Label is 10/63, not 100/63, so it is a 10 microF/63V capacitor.
Resistor is conventional wire-wound and if it is not broken - do not change it. But if you insist on a "audiophile" resistor, change it with a MOX type. Simply measure the resistor with a digital multimeter.
Label is 10/63, not 100/63, so it is a 10 microF/63V capacitor.
Resistor is conventional wire-wound and if it is not broken - do not change it. But if you insist on a "audiophile" resistor, change it with a MOX type. Simply measure the resistor with a digital multimeter.
Hi Nate,
I used to do warranty service on these. The resistors do not require replacement unless you burn them out. Then you have larger problems, like burned out drivers.
The capacitors should be okay, but if you feel you must replace them use teh same type and value. For film types use Polypropylene.
If you replace the crossovers you no longer have those speakers, so you might as well tear the labels off and begin the fight to make them sound the same again. Crossovers in good speakers have a lot of engineering behind them using equipment you don't have access to.
-Chris
I used to do warranty service on these. The resistors do not require replacement unless you burn them out. Then you have larger problems, like burned out drivers.
The capacitors should be okay, but if you feel you must replace them use teh same type and value. For film types use Polypropylene.
If you replace the crossovers you no longer have those speakers, so you might as well tear the labels off and begin the fight to make them sound the same again. Crossovers in good speakers have a lot of engineering behind them using equipment you don't have access to.
-Chris
One of the speakers has absolutely no sound when the speaker wires are connected to the terminals on the bottom of the speakers. They do have sound when connected directly to the drivers. I am assuming the issue is with the crossover and figured the capacitor would be the culprit. However, it does not look obviously damaged as seen in the photo. When I connect a multimeter to the wires that go to the main driver using the ohm setting it reads “OL” which I believe is “open load”.
Don’t shoot me! Or better yet, trying not to shoot myself!
I did a little more testing. While the fuse itself tests fine, apparently, the holder has become defective. I overlooked the somewhat obvious. I bypassed the fuse and it now apprears to be working fine. Thank you for the replies regarding the caps and resistors. That is what made me think a bit harder. In retrospect, I overresearched the issue and assumed that the caps must be bad because that seems to be the issue with a lot of vintage speakers.
Thank all of you for your assistance!!!
I did a little more testing. While the fuse itself tests fine, apparently, the holder has become defective. I overlooked the somewhat obvious. I bypassed the fuse and it now apprears to be working fine. Thank you for the replies regarding the caps and resistors. That is what made me think a bit harder. In retrospect, I overresearched the issue and assumed that the caps must be bad because that seems to be the issue with a lot of vintage speakers.
Thank all of you for your assistance!!!
Mission complete!
The Mission 770s are put back together! I will hook them up and really hear then for the first time tomorrow! They are in pretty good condition. The veneer is a little chipped in some corners, it the foam covers are in excellent condition!
The Mission 770s are put back together! I will hook them up and really hear then for the first time tomorrow! They are in pretty good condition. The veneer is a little chipped in some corners, it the foam covers are in excellent condition!
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