TABAQ TL for Tangband

The W5-1611 is great! I've build them in DIY Flat-5 cabinets (Blue Planet Acoustic - Frankfurt). Great bass & CinemaScope like stage width & rhythmic. It is a real good all rounder for a FR. I used a simple R-L-C filter for the mids and voila - it sounds unexpected linear and a big fun to listen. BTW, everybody coming along love them. Even some of them have quite expansive HighEnd LS & equipment - so do I. They are not utterly open like the W4-655 but as I said, they are amazingly neutral & bass is fairly deep. Long live TangBand - I love TangBand... well sorry guys I have to go back to my TangBands...

could you tell exactly what filter? please explain to a noob:)

and what is there better in sound with this filter?
 
This is my second TABAQ. I had a pair of unfinished cabinets i the attic. At the building shop i got som very cheep iron on veener. I dont reccomend it, the glue is slipping.

I had a ready soldered LCR filter from Cyburgs Needle. I am not sure if thats the right thing. In Bjørns description its only a LR filter (baffelstep correction)?



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umm...

This is my second TABAQ. I had a pair of unfinished cabinets i the attic. At the building shop i got som very cheep iron on veener. I dont reccomend it, the glue is slipping.

I had a ready soldered LCR filter from Cyburgs Needle. I am not sure if thats the right thing. In Bjørns description its only a LR filter (baffelstep correction)?



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Should there be some sort of picture here? I follow this thread to see what different people do with this wonderful little design.
 
I'm interested in building my first fullrange speakers & the tabaq seems like a good place to start as the cabinet is very simple & has only 90 degree cuts etc.

However my normal listening position is sat at my desk, so I would need them to be much taller to bring the drivers to ear level, otherwise they'll be playing music into my legs! Can I simply extend the cabinet like in the attached picture, filling the bottom part with sand for stability/damping? I know that design is probably not the best (I could use single long pieces for the sides/back) but I'm just toying with ideas atm.
 

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I'm interested in building my first fullrange speakers & the tabaq seems like a good place to start as the cabinet is very simple & has only 90 degree cuts etc.

However my normal listening position is sat at my desk, so I would need them to be much taller to bring the drivers to ear level, otherwise they'll be playing music into my legs! Can I simply extend the cabinet like in the attached picture, filling the bottom part with sand for stability/damping? I know that design is probably not the best (I could use single long pieces for the sides/back) but I'm just toying with ideas atm.



That'd be a lot of sand, or any type of ballast, and I'd imagine with that very small footprint that they'd still be a bit tippy - so add a wider base plate

Even better perhaps - would it be possible to mount the shorter cabinets on the wall? Using lighter materials such as a decent plywood or solid pine, etc, they'd probably be light enough that a small bracket or pair of hooks would suffice.
 
That'd be a lot of sand, or any type of ballast, and I'd imagine with that very small footprint that they'd still be a bit tippy - so add a wider base plate

Even better perhaps - would it be possible to mount the shorter cabinets on the wall? Using lighter materials such as a decent plywood or solid pine, etc, they'd probably be light enough that a small bracket or pair of hooks would suffice.
I probably wouldn't fill the bases entirely with sand, just enough to keep them stable - as you say a larger base will be a very sensible idea as well & will reduce the amount of ballast needed to keep them stable enough anyway. I can't mount them to the wall as I rent the flat so can't drill holes into the walls :(
 
Hi
I know my design has the driver a little low. I have designed TABAQ BOX, which is a folded version with the opening on the top - or the bottom if you will. As long as the opening is not blocked you kan turn it around.
I have not finished the build. I want to be sure is also perform in real life. The cabinet is 14,4 cm wide, 25 cm deep and 44,1 cm tall. The BSC is of course different from the original TABAQ.
I will let you know as soon as I have some results.
Regards
Bjorn Johannesen
 
I guess I'm bit blind, but any idea of the dimensions of the case for 4" driver?

I've got already a pair of those TABAQ's, but I would like to test 4x4" TABAQ Cases + 1 Subwoofer system :p. Bought the first ones from friend and repainted them.

So some sort of dimensions needed to get the another case project started...
 
Hi
I know my design has the driver a little low. I have designed TABAQ BOX, which is a folded version with the opening on the top - or the bottom if you will. As long as the opening is not blocked you kan turn it around.
I have not finished the build. I want to be sure is also perform in real life. The cabinet is 14,4 cm wide, 25 cm deep and 44,1 cm tall. The BSC is of course different from the original TABAQ.
I will let you know as soon as I have some results.
Regards
Bjorn Johannesen
I'll keep an eye out for that, I'm unlikely to start building anything until I've finished my current project anyway (a pair of LM3886 monoblocks). Though what drew me to the TABAQ over the needles or others is the simplicity of the cabinet - all of the joints are right angles, which makes it very simple for an inexperienced cabinet-builder with limited tools to achieve. Is the TABAQ BOX going to be as simple, or will it be much more complicated to build?
 
Hi,

I did some changes to make a center speaker, too. I attached the current 3D-model. Could you have a look at it? It looks a little different to your approach. But the TB is in the middle of the front face an the volume should be nearly the same than original TABAQ.
I used 12mm (MDF) wall thickness. I think I can make a little sketch with all the measures.
As the measures are not all readable: The long area is 458 mm long, the short corner is 51 mm and the rear chamber is 290 mm (306 mm as in the picture is not correct).
 

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Please excuse the basic question, but what do I need to consider when buying resistors & inductors for the filter? The PDF specifies a 3.9ohm resistor & a 1.0mH inductor - do I need a certain power rating for the resistor (eg 0.5W, 5W, 12W, etc.) & will any 1.0mH inductor do (air core, ferrite core, etc.)?
 
Hi bAD, to be able to comment on your design, it has to be simulated by MJK´s software. As far as I can see, your design differs from a folded TABAQ. However, this is not neccesarly a bad thing.

You were right. I wasn't aware of the corners. I revised the design of the center and it looks a little different now. I attached a cut through with the measures and components of the length of the line. It should be better now.
 

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