You could, but with such a low Vas spec, better to just make it a classic Vas/1.44, Fb = Fs vented alignment [Onken n = 5.7].
This results in a ~6 dB peaking in the mid bass centered at ~90 Hz with Fb at ~-12 dB, so not any real bass to speak of, just plenty of that vintage 'bottom/boom/punch' mid-bass that helped make R&R so popular, though this alignment allows a lot of power handling/SPL even with just 3.5 mm Xmax, so can use DSP to shape it and of course can always add damping to 'taste'.
Waxx posted requirements for lower, flatter tunings.
GM
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The P7 is about the same sensitivity as the A7.3 (the new P7HD is purported to be an evolution of the A7.3 — the A7ms taking its place in the lineup).
I generally recommend 10w minimum for the A7.3, but room, taste, and how loud you listen play big roles. My room is on the biggish side. I have used from 2A3SE (could be pushed into audiable clipping), ACA (from 5w to 15w (bridegd monos) and now use SIT3 (18w). I was happy with them all (mono ACA liked to be used speakers that liked higher output impedance). The 2A3 (within limits) was very good, the SIT3 i have not really heard pushed into clipping..
So how much power do you need… it depends.
BTW: i did a design for 2 ScanSpeak 8” + A7.3. Performance reported as superb.
dave
I've driven my waw setup with a Prima Luna Prologue 4 with stock tubes (32w from a pair of EL34's in PP), a set of 8w Sophia Electric 91-01 (300B SET monoblocks) that i had for a while (guarding it for someone else who was abroad) or with a Marantz PM5004 (45w AB class SS amp). The Prima Luna drives it the best, and is the one i use now most of the time. The Sophia Electric is a bit to weak for louder volumes, but when playing softly it's as good as the Prima Luna. Sadly i had to give i back to the owner... The Marantz is good sounding, but can't compete with the others on sound. But it's more than powerfull enough to drive it.
Thanks waxx.
So, if i well understood the best way is what Fane data recommend. I don't want a box for low level amplifiers.
75 litres is the max recommended in data sheet.
Please when you find the time, can you provide the dimensions for a suitable 75 litres box?
Regards.
Thimios
Going for low frequencies will limit the max spl somewhat.
In my 129 liter box I could get very good output, no deep bass, but it sounded great on most music. Increasing distortion down low when pushed hard which will also increase the further below fs you want to push the driver, but this is the same regardless of driver and enclosure.
I can post distortion plot for max safe sweep in the 129 liter box later today. Close to halfspace.
In my 129 liter box I could get very good output, no deep bass, but it sounded great on most music. Increasing distortion down low when pushed hard which will also increase the further below fs you want to push the driver, but this is the same regardless of driver and enclosure.
I can post distortion plot for max safe sweep in the 129 liter box later today. Close to halfspace.
There are 2 ways you can use this box. You can tune it very low with an low wattage like i explained, or you can use it as the top of a 2 way with a crossover above 150Hz and use the advertised wattage and (closed) box enclosure size. But then you need a seperate subwoofer that is or +/- 100dB efficient (with a passive crossover), or can reach +118dB (what the fane reaches full open) with an seperate amp and a active crossover. Getting high SPL and low bass at the same time is not possible with this Fane.
Edit: i included a quick sim in WinISD for the fane in a 75L closed box using factory specs. For sizes i need to calculate to much while i'm in holiday... But there is software that can do that for you if you can't do it yourself. I've used basscad for that a few years ago and there are probally better arround now also.
Edit: i included a quick sim in WinISD for the fane in a 75L closed box using factory specs. For sizes i need to calculate to much while i'm in holiday... But there is software that can do that for you if you can't do it yourself. I've used basscad for that a few years ago and there are probally better arround now also.
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I would say that even with 3 - 5 W amp these will be loud enough. My low level "night time" listening power level is around 10 mW (0.2 V RMS) and even during the day, 1 W is already too loud in my room. I got some 90 l boxes, they are not nice, but they will do the job - just need to finish them a little - I will then compare them to my Lowther Hedlund horns in the same room. I expect that these will be a good competition, sice my room needs rising HF to sound balanced.
That spec must come from the marketing department. Creates an undersamped enclosure with a bump up in the bass (as much as this driver can produce bass).
From the sim 350 litres tp get Q of butterworth or lower.
dave
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It is unlikey that a decent passive XO can be designed for use that that low where the resonance peaks create a very unflat impedance to work into. And part sfor an attempt might cost you more than a 2nd amp.
dave
In 350itres you have F6 in the low 40s, F10- in the low 30s. So room will play a role. Do note that F3 (that is often looked at ~55Hz) has been shown to be a meaningless spec for the human ear/brain (ref Toole)
In a small box F10 riss about 10 hz and roll-off does not match (potential) room gain as well.
dave
In a small box F10 riss about 10 hz and roll-off does not match (potential) room gain as well.
dave
Please can you examine this.
I see here. Fane 12-250TC Retro Speaker. - Page 16 - audio-talk
I see here. Fane 12-250TC Retro Speaker. - Page 16 - audio-talk
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this 85L box (in the pdf) models with an F10 of 40, so put against a wall in a room you will have bass untill arround there (due to room gain), in open air it will cut off arround 60 i think. 25w is a safe wattage, more will drive the speaker in overexcursion. I would make it a bit larger for a lower tuning (but i'll use it with a 3 watt amp, not on higer wattage like you).
But this could be an option that fits your demands. You won't have the lowest subbass, but a decent bass in an average room, and you can use more than a few watt with this speaker.
But this could be an option that fits your demands. You won't have the lowest subbass, but a decent bass in an average room, and you can use more than a few watt with this speaker.
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Thanks again waxx!
So i must look at the dimensions carefully, just in case.
Regards.
Thimios
The box design needs more bracing & as shown in the plans is not in the optimal direction
While sort of true (where do you choose the point of not going further). This same soert of argument applies to all sealed boxes. It is worth noting that the few Hz mentioned is near a half-octave of bass and how the speaker rolls off really has an effect on how the bass rolls off in the room.
I already commented on this. Having built many boxes i do not agree with him, no matter how thick the playwood he built them out of.
Be careful with this one. No damping in the box means that more crap is coming back thry the cone, and some interpret this to be good. Damping will also increase the apparent size of the box so brings its Q down. The loses described could just be the result of flatter, more accuate bass. I would fill the box with aciousta-stuff or UtraTouch insulation. And 4/ is worth noting that after saying do not damp the box, he does damp the box.
True of most FR speakers.
Anecdotally (i have not heard these), if one puts grills in front of the speaker it can attenuate some of the top (which is reportedly where some of the problems are), heavier cloth with usually greater effect.
dave
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