New Markaudio Drivers

The Node Audio Hylixa has a very good approach to 3d printed enclosures, must cost a small fortune to produce. I don't want to derail the thread.

There is a community 3d printer I can use, I might see how long the run the is for the above speakers and see what it would cost to produce. The file is too big to upload to Shapeways for an online price, but the base alone was £65, so its probably quite a lot.
 
You probably wouldn't want to use most filament type printers w/ a design like the Node, the supports would be a nightmare to remove (unless the printer uses dissolvable supports). Node states they use an SLS machine which sinters powder w/ a laser, the powdered support is much easier to clean.
Another option for 3d prints is Pcbway, they tend to be much less expensive than Shapeways.
 
frugal-phile™
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Node Audio Hylixa

Spiral waveguide. There is a long, old thread on this kind of loading.

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i always was suspicious of how it worked.

dave
 
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Where does the other end go? Is it open or closed? Or slightly open?

Btw, we have a blender / kitchen chef thingy, where the snail screw appears to be made from that glass reinforced plastic. It seems very strong. A relative tried to crack almonds with it, which broke the outer shell but didn't even scratch the main part.
 
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Mark suggested the "Alpair WW" is desirable because most woofers/subwoofers are mere "atmosphere generators." Their cones are so heavy, he says, that they absorb/mask low-level detail. They can produce sine waves, but in music, there are all sorts of sub-frequencies (harmonics) in the signal that they cannot reproduce. Most woofers/subwoofers, he said, cannot accurately reproduce the sub-frequencies/details in a signal that distinguish between a Double Bass playing 40Hz, and a Bass guitar playing 40Hz.

Today I pulled out my Ariel paper 10" subs, and replaced them in my H Frame sub with a pair of 12" paper cone full ranges.
They have much lighter cones, higher qts,
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more efficient, are rated to -3db at 28 hz, and do the best sub location disappearing act I've ever had in my living room.
Even with electric bass guitar, there's a lot more going on down low than I had realized before, even protecting them with a -14 db cut at 25 hertz.
Lighter is a lot more expressive with these, in my room.
 
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It's a drop-in replacement for the 5.3, as it's basically a lightly modified version of the same drive unit.

Keep in mind, the above was me basically doing a varient of the old Sweet 16 & is aimed predominantly at Japan, where buyers / listeners often have slightly different priorities to many elsewhere, and listeners with a focus on earlier recordings. That's a minor cliche, but like most cliches, there is a degree of truth to it. Sensitivity / dynamic range for drivers of this size is very high, but the HF limit is reduced. Good fun though.
 
74Hz nominal Fb, lightly damped alignment (nice alignment actually), should be good for 60Hz[ish] in practice @ roughly a 95dB 1m/2.83v sensitivity & little step-loss to worry about.

Dispersion isn't great, as Dave says -as a Sweet 16 type box, it wasn't meant to be: this was about dynamic range & efficiency with small drivers in a modest-sized (and relatively short) package. HF starts to drop away above about 10KHz, although not quite as badly as a vertical column due to the shorter overall distance between extremes. As I say, I designed it mostly for Japan, where small drivers are popular, & so are spud amps with very little power, although I gather a couple have been built elsewhere, & I did something similar in the midband with the CHN-50 in my friend Colin's 'The Things', with 14 units run as 2 x 7 driver hex clusters. It's surprising how well they hold up on axis, especially on material (such as < mid-'60s, when most was BW limited by current standards) that doesn't have a whole lot of the upper octave present anyway.