SAL Full Range Drivers

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Hi aoc,

Sorry to hear that is has come loss. But is an easy fix, you should use 5 min. epoxy to attach is again. I know a lot of other manufactures use screws to mount their phase plugs, but the magnetic linearity suffers, when you need to make a M 5-M6mm threat and maybe 10-15mm beep to mount the phase plug. This is the reason I use glue.

Frank
Frank,
Any comments on use of 3M KHR double sided tape?

Alex
 
Hi Alex,

Do not use doubled sided tape it tends to be flexible and over time. and I am afraid that the contestant pull from gravity will eventually make the phase plug rub the voice coil.

It is an easy fix using 5 min. epoxy, use 4 toothpicks for spacers and let it set for an hour and they are ready to go.

Frank
 
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I have to agree completely with this post below. Ok, I”m not claiming to be an expert, I’m not, but I but I have learned how fiendishly complicated it can be, to consider all the issues of speaker design and it’s amazing how hard it is to work out a crossover by ear, and it’s true that the mini DSP gives you so many options it can get very confusing, so it really is almost essential to have a measurement system as he recommends.

That's a good approach. Also try different filter slopes, and maybe an equalizer or two; that's easy with the MiniDSP. However, I always find it difficult to understand what's going on just from listening to the result. It's so much easier to back things up with actual measurements to actually understand what's right and wrong, and why. I'd therefore recommend to find a measurement microphone and do some measurements while you're tweaking your system.
 
If you use the slower setting epoxy you should have better adhesion, according to the specs on the product I use...same epoxy different hardener. Also, I must say that your experience would have made me sick. Were they looking for plutonium?
Your comment brought back some memories, As a young adult many years ago (early 2001) I was on my way home my first trip to US for 3 months, and had bought almost a small suit case of vacuum tubes, from stores and eBAY... And I was warn that I might be checked for bringing out military gear because alot of the tubes were JAN grade... I was super nervous but later realize it was probably a joke.
 
Thank you for the feedbacks Variac and mbrennwa. I completely agree with both of you. I also ordered a UMIK-1 measurement microphone from MiniDSP as well to measure out the frequency response. It's almost next to impossible for my untrained ears to determine or pick out the differences if at all in freq ampl/phase alignments at different crossover frequencies.

Thanks again for all the inputs.
Regards,
Tom



I have to agree completely with this post below. Ok, I”m not claiming to be an expert, I’m not, but I but I have learned how fiendishly complicated it can be, to consider all the issues of speaker design and it’s amazing how hard it is to work out a crossover by ear, and it’s true that the mini DSP gives you so many options it can get very confusing, so it really is almost essential to have a measurement system as he recommends.
 
The one and only
Joined 2001
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I have to agree completely with this post below. Ok, I”m not claiming to be an expert, I’m not, but I but I have learned how fiendishly complicated it can be, to consider all the issues of speaker design and it’s amazing how hard it is to work out a crossover by ear, and it’s true that the mini DSP gives you so many options it can get very confusing, so it really is almost essential to have a measurement system as he recommends.

I agree too. It doesn't take an expensive microphone to resolve the large
issues from crossovers that don't fit and driver peaks, and listening can take
care of most of the rest.

You don't have to measure, but you do have to listen. If you measure and
listen, it will usually get you to the best result with the least effort.

BTW, DIY B5 is coming to store soon.
 
Frank and all who responded,
Thanks for the guidance... Deed is done... Now the waiting for it to harden. Voice coil still moves freely... Was worried the epoxy overflow, only use a thin layer in the middle as well as fill up the gap in the speaker "pole”
Hi Alex,

Do not use doubled sided tape it tends to be flexible and over time. and I am afraid that the contestant pull from gravity will eventually make the phase plug rub the voice coil.

It is an easy fix using 5 min. epoxy, use 4 toothpicks for spacers and let it set for an hour and they are ready to go.

Frank
IMG_20180220_170436863.jpg IMG_20180220_170442262.jpg
 
Dave & Frank
I circled the small tear... anything that I should do about it?

Alex
Not a SAL, but i had the phase plug in a rare TB driver get knocked out and i used epoxy to glue it back and they are fine. My wooden phase plugs are light enuff that they magnetically attach with just a couple steel screws on the bottom of the plug.

Probably more of an issue is the mangled whizzer cone… there are ways to minimize the effects, but that is the whole other subject of treating drivers.

dave
IMG-20180220-WA0002-1.jpg
 
It's alive .... Definitely sounds different with phase plug than without. I have been listening for 4 days without Phase plug on one side, the difference is highly noticable

Alex
Frank and all who responded,
Thanks for the guidance... Deed is done... Now the waiting for it to harden. Voice coil still moves freely... Was worried the epoxy overflow, only use a thin layer in the middle as well as fill up the gap in the speaker "pole” View attachment 663690 View attachment 663691
 
Hi Alex,

I needed to do an experiment before I could answer the question regarding wizzer. Since the coating of the wizzer is very similar to epoxy, I tried to tear one cone and repaired it with epoxy, and it works very well.
I would recommend that you put just a little bit of epoxy, on the rear side of the wizzer and massage into the material. Remember to remove any leftovers. When the epoxy is dry it will not be visible. You don’t need to worry about the extra weight since the amount you need is close to nothing.

Hope this helps
Frank
 
Hi Alex,

I needed to do an experiment before I could answer the question regarding wizzer. Since the coating of the wizzer is very similar to epoxy, I tried to tear one cone and repaired it with epoxy, and it works very well.
I would recommend that you put just a little bit of epoxy, on the rear side of the wizzer and massage into the material. Remember to remove any leftovers. When the epoxy is dry it will not be visible. You don’t need to worry about the extra weight since the amount you need is close to nothing.

Hope this helps
Frank
Thanks Frank
 
hi Frank and all,

Finally, I got all the tools I need to do biamping/active Xover and make freq response my OB.

Equipment use
- FW F4 for the Sub Eminence beta 15'' and FW Alelph J for SAL drivers
- MiniDSP 2x4HD: EQ SAL drive and dual Eminence 15beta
- MiniDSP 2x4HD: Xover at 300 Mhz using SL filter with -12dB/slope
- UMIK-1 USB mic: fully calibrated at 0degree, placed the mic at ears level 90 degree perpendicular to the speaker at 1 meter distance
- Software: REW for EQ, measurement and HD-plugins for active Xover
- Speaker placement: 1 meter off the rear wall and off the corner of the room

- Sal Freq response before EQ: I see the big dip at 5.52 kHz. Does anyone know if this is expected for the driver ? or is it due to my room effect ? High frequency start to roll off around 700 Mhz
- Playing around with REW EQ. I can tame some of the bump at 2k, 3k and 58 Hz but not able to get rid of the dip. I wonder if adding a super tweeter like Fostex t90a can help with the dip at 5.52khz for the HF

The overall sounds of OB with this active Xover/biamping setup with miniDSP 2x4HD is improved compared to passive Xover but still not open and airy at the high frequency. I wonder if it's due to a big dip of freq at 5.52khz showed up in the SAL measurement. It's good at mid range and decent at the mid bass but the high frequency is still not right to my ears.

I'm only a newbie so I'm open to all suggestions from other experts. Should I use Supertweeter to cover up freq range from 5k - 20k ? Should I use different Xover frequency ? maybe Xover at 1khz ? since this is the same zone for HF of SAL. Any inputs are appreciated.
I wonder if the baffle size and the way I place SAL in the middle in separate piece of wood might contribute to the dip at 5khz and the frequency response that I see below

Below is the image of SAL before EQ and SAL after EQ in green
SAL Before EQ
39829320184_5c6b20d79d_o.jpg



SAL After EQ
26668629728_ef74019057_o.jpg

Here's the overlay curves of all drivers. the PINK curve is the Xover of SAL and dual beta 15 at XO 300Hz using LR -12dB.
26668629688_6c26cc8eae_o.jpg


OB design and placement
39645372815_0429fdc9f7_c.jpg


Thanks,
Tom
 
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Try moving your microphone to different positions (further away from the speaker, off axis) and see what the 5.5kHz dip does. If the dip goes away or moves to other frequencies, it's a geometry thing (baffle, room, reflections). If the dip stays, it's because the driver output has a dip.

I don't know if REW can take anechoic measurements, but that might be useful to understand a bit better what's going on. An impulse response showing the direct sound from the driver and the later reflections and the sound from the rear of the baffle might be useful to see.
 
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He says yes, and it’s not “open and airy” so seems to be the case. A 5k dip could do this
I think. I believe the SAL response is quite flat so that notch might be for anonter reason than the driver.. There is a frequency response curve for the driver around somewhere.

I don’t think the super tweeter is the answer to fix a notch But I do have speakers with a full range mid and a tweeter above 5k that work well. Kind off a shame to cut off a lot of the SALs response. Probably just adding complexity at this point-better to fix the response (somehow!)
 
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