I am designing the belt drive system now, can i change the speed ratio from 1 : 1 to say 1 : 2? the motor can run much higher rpm's then the 500 rpm at the moment.
Can i assume the laser reads the actual speed and the regulator ajusts the speed accordingly?
Also looking at belt drive for the sled.
At the moment the ratio is 31.825:1 , if i change the ratio (faster) will the tracking be oke? assuming this is also read by the laser.
these changes would make a big difference i think.
regards,
John.
Can i assume the laser reads the actual speed and the regulator ajusts the speed accordingly?
Also looking at belt drive for the sled.
At the moment the ratio is 31.825:1 , if i change the ratio (faster) will the tracking be oke? assuming this is also read by the laser.
these changes would make a big difference i think.
regards,
John.
Hi John,
I got similar questions from a John in Germany.
Attached is motor datasheet. Hope this will help you.
Also have a look on motor driver LA6541.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi John,
I got similar questions from a John in Germany.
Attached is motor datasheet. Hope this will help you.
Also have a look on motor driver LA6541.
Regards,
Tibi
lolz, must be in the name then.
I am a mechanical guy with a little bit of electronics knowledge, so the datasheet doesn't really give me the answer.
The way i look at it there is a feedback vin1? and vin4? what would mean i can change the ratio.
regards,
John
Today i connected my new clock, dexa, took out the tentlabs clock.
I also changed C8, took out the mundorf and put in a rike ohm i had on hand for my phonostage.
I am afraid it doesn't work anymore.
after power on nothing happenes, even the display shows nothing, empty.
I measured the 8.5V power, ok. I measured the ldo's, 5V ok.
I checked for lifted print traces with a magnifier, seems ok.
did i kill it?
regards,
John.
I also changed C8, took out the mundorf and put in a rike ohm i had on hand for my phonostage.
I am afraid it doesn't work anymore.
after power on nothing happenes, even the display shows nothing, empty.
I measured the 8.5V power, ok. I measured the ldo's, 5V ok.
I checked for lifted print traces with a magnifier, seems ok.
did i kill it?
regards,
John.
Attachments
John,
Move the hot wire from the pigtail to small center tab from XO3.
The way you connected cable to XO3 put hot wire to the ground also. The wire indicated by blue arrow, must be moved to the pad indicated with red arrow.
Green arrow indicate to move from blue to red.
Please keep pigtail coax cable as short as possible. Otherwise Dexa Neutron ultra low jitter is lost.
Regards,
Tibi
PS.I'm afraid that your Rike cap is far, far, far from Mundorf SGO I provided, but you are free to experiment ...
Move the hot wire from the pigtail to small center tab from XO3.
The way you connected cable to XO3 put hot wire to the ground also. The wire indicated by blue arrow, must be moved to the pad indicated with red arrow.
Green arrow indicate to move from blue to red.
Please keep pigtail coax cable as short as possible. Otherwise Dexa Neutron ultra low jitter is lost.
Regards,
Tibi
PS.I'm afraid that your Rike cap is far, far, far from Mundorf SGO I provided, but you are free to experiment ...
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
Tibi to the resque!!!
Thank you for your usual ultra fast response and help for us, the amateurs.
Phew i was thinking the worst, lol.
its a cap i had laying around, need to try ofcourse.
If the mundorf is better it will go back in its old spot.
My system is very revealing and fast, so is the shiga!!, so maybe with a diffierent cap i could slow it down a bit.
regards,
John
Thank you for your usual ultra fast response and help for us, the amateurs.
Phew i was thinking the worst, lol.
its a cap i had laying around, need to try ofcourse.
If the mundorf is better it will go back in its old spot.
My system is very revealing and fast, so is the shiga!!, so maybe with a diffierent cap i could slow it down a bit.
regards,
John
A good cap mean good foil, good dielectric and good winding.
Mundorf SGO have top quality silver gold foil, very good polypropylene dielectric uniformed in oil and exceptional winding.
If you want to try something better, go for Duelund cast silver foil.
If you want to slow down your system, CD source is not the right point. Shiga MKII is very revealing and this is good, because will extract every single pit and land from your CD with lowest possible jitter.
My advice is to look on cables and DAC/pre/amplifier capacitors.
Regards,
Tibi
Mundorf SGO have top quality silver gold foil, very good polypropylene dielectric uniformed in oil and exceptional winding.
If you want to try something better, go for Duelund cast silver foil.
If you want to slow down your system, CD source is not the right point. Shiga MKII is very revealing and this is good, because will extract every single pit and land from your CD with lowest possible jitter.
My advice is to look on cables and DAC/pre/amplifier capacitors.
Regards,
Tibi
hi Tibi,
After listening for just a couple of Hours i can say It now equals the bass rep. of the teac with the rike audio S cap.
It is not as in your facet as the mundorf cap, but also less reveiling.
There is more power and dynamics but voices are less good.
Maybe the duelund cast copper is also a good one.
I will let this one play for a couple of weeks, it is brand new afterall.
Needless to say it is a very good cd transport, thank you for all your effords putting this together for us.
Hou have produced an outstanding piece of kit!!!!
Regards,
John
After listening for just a couple of Hours i can say It now equals the bass rep. of the teac with the rike audio S cap.
It is not as in your facet as the mundorf cap, but also less reveiling.
There is more power and dynamics but voices are less good.
Maybe the duelund cast copper is also a good one.
I will let this one play for a couple of weeks, it is brand new afterall.
Needless to say it is a very good cd transport, thank you for all your effords putting this together for us.
Hou have produced an outstanding piece of kit!!!!
Regards,
John
Speed is adjusted trough a long feedback which take care of incoming data rate and other factors. LA6541 will try to keep up, but it has some limitations. The best way is to use a different motor with higher speed at same voltage. Some current buffers may be needed.
What you want to do is a long process who require lot of testing and measurements.
Sorry, no simple answer here.
Regards,
Tibi
What you want to do is a long process who require lot of testing and measurements.
Sorry, no simple answer here.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi,
No worries, i'll just try and see if it works.
the direkt drive motor only runs at 500 rpm, i just hope there will be some wiggle room.
If not i'll ajust the ratio's back to original, or look for a different motor.
I'll put a heatsink on the chip just to make shure it doesn't get to hot.
Thanks for looking at it.
regards,
John.
A little bit of progress.
I build two Salas refelktorD's for the shiga.
I bought them for my dac, but.. ahh well why not in the shiga.
They are obviously very easy to build, if i can do it.....
I only had to flip the wires because i put the mosfets on the other side of the board.
Still waiting for the R core transformers i ordered from selectronics france, then i can test the different caps i ordered for the raw power.
Regards,
John.
I build two Salas refelktorD's for the shiga.
I bought them for my dac, but.. ahh well why not in the shiga.
They are obviously very easy to build, if i can do it.....
I only had to flip the wires because i put the mosfets on the other side of the board.
Still waiting for the R core transformers i ordered from selectronics france, then i can test the different caps i ordered for the raw power.
Regards,
John.
Attachments
Nice , very nice , hard aluminium !
How will you finish the case ?
Brushing or shining ?
Thanks , that was the whole idea a lot of contrast ...
Like Shiga : the little Cinderella that in the end is the Queen after all ...
Do not we live in fairy-tails ?