Cheap chi-fi DAC buy (<30 USD)

The clamp-on ferrites are pretty handy to have around, I would try and get an assortment of those and have the option to add/remove them, or place them at different ends of a cord.

The solid polymer caps are great, but for digital only, and have limitations based on their low esr. They tend to resonate in circuit with other parts like ceramic decoupling caps. I try to use them, but only at values of 22uf, maybe 47uf, and cautiously.
Another good cap for digital is the standard BC, 036.
 
@Phase
Sure, I'll get two clamp on Ferrites. BTW, the caps on the DAC board now is not that bad though. Many of them are 105C. Regarding the brand, there are Elna, Chemicon KZG and some others.

I just checked the WM8740 data sheet and they recommend placing some of the capacitors (refer page 24) as close to the DAC but in the actual DAC board, is it close ? Shall I do something about it ? https://statics.cirrus.com/pubs/proDatasheet/WM8740_v4.4.pdf
 

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Those electrolytic parts on your board were likely purchased as surplus from a switching power supply production, are great parts for that, but I think you’d be surprised at what a better, low noise set of parts can do. The esr tends to be lower on those other parts also, and that can hurt the sound, in a non-optimized layout, or by resonating with the smaller caps, as Abroxolito mentioned already.
The heat rating isn’t going to translate into a more desirable sounding dac on its own.
Again, I would leave the ones just after the diodes, and focus on the ones right after the regulators, closer to the devices.

At this point, to not damage the dac chip should be your largest concern, I wouldn’t attempt to relocate any of the capacitors. That was mentioned in the data sheet because there are some ridiculous attempts where no decoupling occurs, or very long distances, and they are just pointing out the obvious in the data sheet to try and prevent that. You could place a small, smd.1uf ceramic part between the capacitor leads on the one that is connected to pin 8 on the wm8740.

You’re better off to try and do the simple mods using the best, reasonably priced parts you can find and enjoy it. Some further, simple, low cost power supply improvements can really help too.
 
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@Phase

The caps I bought are mainly Elna Silmic 2. I'm hoping it would not cause any resonance.

I cannot seem to find the Nichicon KZ caps. There are UKZ and some other types "for SMPS" caps. SO, I haven't bought any Nichicons !


By the way those small yellow caps are Elna Silmic 47uF 16V, the red ones - also Elna Silmic 10uF 16V, the long pair of caps on the right side of power supply caps - Chemicon KZJ 1000uF 16V, power supply caps - Chemicon LXV 1500uF 25V, the single cap just ahead of the power supply caps - Chemicon KZG 1500uF 16V, the cap closer to the SPDIF selection switch - Elna 330uF 10V (but silkscreen saying 220uF) etc.
Not too bad !
 
Actually, I don't have the replacement for them. I'll have to buy it from Mouser or RS Delivers.
I'll see what I can do.


By the way, there is huge sale on Amazon for rechargeable batteries. So, if I get 6X Dura Cells, can I use them for powering the DAC ?
It would solve lots of power supply issues if its possible, right ?
 
Hi eljoantonyn

yes in principal its 6x 1,5V = 9V but they are alcaline batteries so no rechareging possible if they are empty you have to throuh it away .....and if you use some Lifepo or other batteries (very powerful) so you have to manage additionally a "concept" for charging and trickle charging and some limitatione (fuseß) for possible shortcuts.

the idea transormer rectifier and check the voltage regulator as Phase proposed are not bad for low ripple power supply.

keep going and note which advices the experts give you....i am still learning about DAC...(modification)

your idea to collect all the cheap 30 $ -..... DAC is very good...thanks ;)
chris
 
Yes, you are right ! Its the NiMh type. Yes, we should stick to a budget. But, often, parts price is eclipsed by labour. And both eclipsed by R&D.

I'm spending a lot of time reading the many threads and searching availability of components, phoning different people etc. If I put an hourly rate for that and account it in the full costing, it would be huge ! I think its the same for you guys too.

Time = Money.
But yeah, nothing beats the fun in DIYing.
 
I'm spending a lot of time reading the many threads and searching availability of components, phoning different people etc. If I put an hourly rate for that and account it in the full costing, it would be huge ! I think its the same for you guys too.

Time = Money.
But yeah, nothing beats the fun in..

Yes I have too often spend 20 hours of research on what to buy for the right price where to save 20$. Instead i could have worked extra hours and make 200$ to buy premium brand. Stilll i chose to believe the time invested will pay off in the long run with the knowledge that follows