You mean the usb/spi csr programmer like on Ebay or solution on your webpages, not far more expensive programmers? Or is the software needed the expensive part ?
Is it all in program lines/code like the AAC code/line mentioned earlier and the beep/message removal code/line mentioned here? (didn't find something else than datasheet mentioning dsp and posts mentioning dsp, no posts of people actually using it, it seems, only mentioning of JBL and other companies using the internal dsp, in part locked in firmware, so all in indecipherable(to me) code ????)
I just wanted to make sure if anybody has solved the problem of loud click&pop sound when muting this particular amplifier (like when the music is stopped on the smartphone). I have previously changed R21 and R22 to high ohmic values (discussion on page 2-3 of this thread), which removed the annoying click&pop at turn-on and yielded soft unmuting of amplifier when starting to stream music, but muting become much worse.
I mentioned the idea of putting parallel diodes to R21 and R22 to make fast discharging of the muting capacitors when muting the amplifier and still guarantee slow unmuting by charging capacitors through big R21 and R22. Has anybody have chance to try this out and can share the experience? Or any alternative solution which can be easily mounted on the existing PCB on the existing pads without too much rework (without extra reset circuitry/opamp "flying" on a separate PCB over the amplifier board)?
I mentioned the idea of putting parallel diodes to R21 and R22 to make fast discharging of the muting capacitors when muting the amplifier and still guarantee slow unmuting by charging capacitors through big R21 and R22. Has anybody have chance to try this out and can share the experience? Or any alternative solution which can be easily mounted on the existing PCB on the existing pads without too much rework (without extra reset circuitry/opamp "flying" on a separate PCB over the amplifier board)?
By the way, which company manufactures this type of amplifier (name/website)? If I want to start buying larger quantities of this amplifier, I would rather buy directly from established asian company instead of buying through small mechants on Ebay. Then I guess it is also easier to discuss these small design changes for improving the performance.
If they allow you to do a custom order, let me know. My guess is they'll require a large minimum order. I'd be darn surprised if it's under 100 pieces.
Tested this board on arrival and it connected fine via blue tooth. Removed the DC then connected a speaker to the left output. Reconnected DC and there was no blue LED or any other sign of life. The DC socket connects well as 19V is present on the board.
My question is: Is there anything I should try before returning it? Maybe there's a hard reset - if so, please let me know how that's done. Also does anyone have a link to a pdf manual for this board? I can only find this one, for a similar board.
My question is: Is there anything I should try before returning it? Maybe there's a hard reset - if so, please let me know how that's done. Also does anyone have a link to a pdf manual for this board? I can only find this one, for a similar board.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I bought one of the boards under discussion here, but now I'm looking for something that would give a more Hi-Fi output; a class D amplifier board and blue tooth, (separate or together) to use in a high quality 'boom box' using a pair of Kef Q100 speakers
Does anyone have a good recommendation ?
Does anyone have a good recommendation ?
Followers of this thread may be interested in this clearance. Looks like a lot of features for $80.
Dayton Audio MARK2-WF Powered Wi-Fi Speaker with Bluetooth
Also, btw I recently got this BT receiver - no amp but works very well and also accepts microSD and USB memory for .mp3, .flac, etc. as a portable DAP - just use with headphones or to feed a power amp. Tiny and inexpensive sound quite nice. No BT noise at all. Needs 5v via a microUSB (from a portable USB battery stick) or your computer, or other source.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blu...WU-TF-card-original-producer/32774142249.html
Dayton Audio MARK2-WF Powered Wi-Fi Speaker with Bluetooth
Also, btw I recently got this BT receiver - no amp but works very well and also accepts microSD and USB memory for .mp3, .flac, etc. as a portable DAP - just use with headphones or to feed a power amp. Tiny and inexpensive sound quite nice. No BT noise at all. Needs 5v via a microUSB (from a portable USB battery stick) or your computer, or other source.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blu...WU-TF-card-original-producer/32774142249.html
I have few of those TDA7492P boards that I'm trying to improve. Replacing R21 and R22 seems to fix power-on pop but still don't know how to deal with noise. Removing buffer stage and going straight with BAL signal as desribed in this thread seems to be easiest and effective way. The problem is that I want to keep analog input. Is something like DRV134 on external PCB the only solution? Or maybe there is simpler and cheaper way to deal with noise and keep line-in?
Haha yes the lady with Hong Kong accent. "Your Bluetooth device is now connected". 
I have not paid attention what bit rate flac yet. Probably 44.1k or 48k. I have some higher stuff let me see how high it goes. I can't imagine it can do 192 or even 96k.
But for $8 it's incredibly feature loaded - how do they even do this?
I have not paid attention what bit rate flac yet. Probably 44.1k or 48k. I have some higher stuff let me see how high it goes. I can't imagine it can do 192 or even 96k.
But for $8 it's incredibly feature loaded - how do they even do this?
Btw guys, I use this BT receiver to feed my pocket SE Class A Headphone Amp. It's one of the best sounding amps I have ever heard - and many others agree. Check it out - I have PCBs for $12 and parts another $20 to $30. Or if you want I can make for you a ready to use one. Everyone who has heard it raves about the sound quality - and these guys are pairing it with high end $1k headphones like LCD2 or HD800's with super sources. I am a total believer in Class A now. Headphones is perfect place for class A because it's not too much heat or power.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/302859-xrk971-pocket-class-headamp-gb.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/302859-xrk971-pocket-class-headamp-gb.html
Also, btw I recently got this BT receiver - no amp but works very well and also accepts microSD and USB memory for .mp3, .flac, etc. as a portable DAP - just use with headphones or to feed a power amp. Tiny and inexpensive sound quite nice. No BT noise at all. Needs 5v via a microUSB (from a portable USB battery stick) or your computer, or other source.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blu...WU-TF-card-original-producer/32774142249.html
Notice there's a EQ button there, is that working as bass treble?
Any way to hack the i2s signal ?
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