TPA3116D2 Amp

Some questions about PSUs for the Sure TPA3110, if I may. When I buy a PSU, what should I look for? (Minimum voltage? Minimum power? Switched or linear? What about the PSUs that Sure sells on eBay? Is one manufacturer better than another?)

I've only made amps from kits or well defined BOMs, so any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Some questions about PSUs for the Sure TPA3110, if I may. When I buy a PSU, what should I look for? (Minimum voltage? Minimum power? Switched or linear? What about the PSUs that Sure sells on eBay? Is one manufacturer better than another?)

I've only made amps from kits or well defined BOMs, so any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I am going to piggy back on the question. Does having higher watts better? I currently have access to couple of laptop ps, one is 65W and the other is 90W. My assumption is that 90W is a better ps to use provided everything else is equal.
 
I am going to piggy back on the question. Does having higher watts better? I currently have access to couple of laptop ps, one is 65W and the other is 90W. My assumption is that 90W is a better ps to use provided everything else is equal.

Depends on design. Most important is very low noise (rare in laptop PSUs) and adequate current capacity which could be anything from stated power to twice that.
 
2 12v SLA batteries equalled 26v when I tried that, and the amp did not take to that very well. 1 12v (really 13v) sounds excellent.
I'm currently using 2x2 cell (2200 mAh) LiPo batteries i series (4 cells) originally bought for an r/c helicopter. Fully charged they put out around 16.6v and I recharge when voltage drops to 15v (which takes several days at moderate volumes). Works well and sounds good so far although I realize that LiPos are not without their hazards. If you're going for battery power LifePo4 batteries are a safer and more durable option. 5-6 cells would be optimal I believe.
 
I'm currently using 2x2 cell (2200 mAh) ... Fully charged they put out around 16.6v and I recharge when voltage drops to 15v (which takes several days at moderate volumes).

I'm surprised at the the longevity between charges. It must say a lot about the efficiency of the amp!

2 12v SLA batteries equalled 26v when I tried that, and the amp did not take to that very well. 1 12v (really 13v) sounds excellent.

Thanks, wushuliu. According to Sure, the amp is okay with 8-19 V power supplies, so your advice makes sense.

I'll investigate batteries in the future, but if I were just looking for a plug-in power supply, what should I look for?
 
You might try coupling 3116 with a I2C DAC from TI. Those chips are tiny and cheap. Here is a 4 channel 16 bit one from TI.
Using the i2c for control, instead of the 3116 analog control method for gain selection?
I was looking at the TI web site today, The only ones TI makes with i2c are the ones with digital audio data using i2s or pwm.
such as tas5708
Supports One Serial Audio Input (8 kHz - 48 kHz Sample Rates) (LJ/RJ/I2S)
– High-End 32-Bit Data Path Audio Processor
– Closed-Loop Power Stage: Enables Wide
– 14 Biquads for Speaker EQ
- i2c control
 
You might try coupling 3116 with a I2C DAC from TI. Those chips are tiny and cheap. Here is a 4 channel 16 bit one from TI.

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slas377b/slas377b.pdf

Thank you but I don't like that solution. No need of the DAC.

Instead, I wonder about Digital Pot, to swap stock analog pot with.

Any hints about it? Could be MCP41XXX/42XXX family, single or dual pot, a good choice for audio application?
 
Suggest a Maxim MAX9729, it works like a charm. Bass boost, channel switching is click-less etc. i2c interface, real easy to program. I call it a pre-amp in 5x5mm. Works well with a TPA3100D2, so I am sure it will work just as well for a TPA3116/18.
A old Pioneer/Marantz in sq cm's, with this technology. My Pioneer SX-950 sits ideal.
The only thing I found as a small issue, was that the o/p from a standard CD player is too much, so around 6dB of attenuation is required or lower the o/p of the cd player. My Pioneer DV-563A requires you to connect the TV in order to attenuate the o/p signal.
Look up this fantastic part, send me a PM if you want more info.
http://www.maximintegrated.com/datasheet/index.mvp/id/5244
P.S. Warning, it is in a 20 pin TQFN package !!
 
Suggest a Maxim MAX9729, it works like a charm. Bass boost, channel switching is click-less etc. i2c interface, real easy to program. I call it a pre-amp in 5x5mm. Works well with a TPA3100D2, so I am sure it will work just as well for a TPA3116/18.

P.S. Warning, it is in a 20 pin TQFN package !!

That would just be silly when you can get the max9744 which is a filterless class D amp almost identical to the tpa31xx and with built in volume control. Only difference is the 14Vmax supply voltage.

Ready made ultra high quality max9744 based amp here:

BoomBox and BoomCase Specialist - Modules - Versterkers - MaxAmp 12V Class-D versterker met JST-PH connector
 
Silly?, really for who, me?
max9744 has no 3 channel input multiplexer, which is the reason why I chose 9729 in the first place and it had a headphone amp, so I could listen (headphones) to tunes from USB power, can your BoomBox do that?
Your implementation vs mine = Simply different design requirements and features.
I'd put my portable unit up against your Boombox for a shoot-out :)
TI/Maxim(CDN) takes on Maxim team(DMK), now where are we to meet, somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic. :) Azores Islands perhaps?
So, what is your preference, max9744 over a TPA3100D2 or TPA3116/18?
Don't get me wrong Maxim makes great stuff too.
I did read AN4320-MP3 Docking Station with great interest.

Cheers
Rick
 
Last edited:
Your implementation

Not my design. So discussion ends there really.

I'd put my portable unit up against your Boombox for a shoot-out :)

I'd put the Boominator (see my thread elsewhere on the class D page) up against any DIY or professionally built portable system any time. No need to travel for you. Several Boominators in both Canada and the USA.

So, what is your preference, max9744 over a TPA3100D2 or TPA3116/18?

TPA3118 > MAX9744 > TPA3116 > TPA3100

The TPA3118 wins due only to having higher output capability on sound quality they are pretty much identical. On the other hand MAX9744 offer far more versatile options. TPA3118 requires a separate heat sink so that loses out to both TPA3118 and MAX9744 for not being design friendly. TPA3100 is an older TI design that does not match either in sound quality.
 
Last edited:
So who's implementations, of these parts are you comparing?
tpa3100 =
max9744 =
tpa3116 =
tpa3118 =
tpa3130 =
I have nothing to compare with, other than a Pioneer SX-950, no Boominators for miles where I live in the sticks.
I am surprised you put 3118(30W) ahead of 3116(50W)
If you use the same design and exchange parts, you will actually prefer a 3118 = hum, why?
Well then, I better get my 3116/18 version done asap, the 3100 does make a great development test bed however :)
TPA3118 requires a separate heat sink so...
3116 :)
 
I am surprised you put 3118(30W) ahead of 3116(50W)
If you use the same design and exchange parts, you will actually prefer a 3118 = hum, why?

Sorry, typo, yeah the 3116 requires heatsink and that limits optimum board design quite a lot more than you'd think as you don't get the very large grounding pad that is the thermal pad on the 3118. And since optimum grounding is pretty much the most crucial aspect about any class D board design that's a big negative.

Also, there's no difference in the achievable power output of the 3116 or 3118. The 30W/50W rating is RMS output. With actual signals the average output is 3W to 5W per channel. It makes absolutely no difference which one you use, they can both handle the same. For that matter you could also use the even better TPA3132 (a tpa3116/18 in a 5x5mm package rated for 25W RMS).

Just to make it clear. When we're discussing sound quality. We're also splitting hairs really. The differences are tiny on a properly designed implementation of most newer class D chips. And it really does not make a difference on a portable speaker.
 
Just to make it clear. When we're discussing sound quality. We're also splitting hairs really. The differences are tiny on a properly designed implementation of most newer class D chips.
Good info.
And it really does not make a difference on a portable speaker
Yes, speakers make the big difference, of course and is where the majority of $ in sound equipment should be. I can buy a tpa3118 for ~$5.14 and one good Morel or better tweeter for say >$75, huge differences.
Well designed MTM speakers are really nice to have.
I am testing using some very good speakers, well why else, I have them, so use them. Simply stated, it is hard to judge SQ using crap speakers.
That is why I am so surprise of the SQ of this class "D" stuff.
For that matter you could also use the even better TPA3132
Another surprise, the only thing I see different, is the pkg, so why in your mind?
Ahh !!
Automotive Load-Dump Compliant
I was wondering when they were going to address this issue.
Good, for my automotive version!! :)
TPA3132 fig26 looks to have a mistake :)

Cheers
Rick
 
Font?

Minute sound quality differences between slightly different class D amps matters very little on portable speakers simply because a) the background noise is hopefully far higher than in your listening room, and b) optimum speaker placement relative to yourself and them are hopefully hardly ever achieved for more than seconds at a time.

What is the mistake in fig 26 in your opinion?
 
Last edited: