I finally got a chance to glue my boominator together.
There was a considerable gap (around 10mm) which I compressed with clamps, I used devcon 2 ton epoxy
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I left it all clamped up for 24hrs.
Today I opened it all up and disaster struck. As I took the clamps off the bonds broke, firstly the center then one end after that a slight pull and it was all in pieces again. Any ideas where I've gone wrong? I think I used too much chemical metal which I've just spent an hour chipping off but I'd have thought the epoxy would hold better then it did.
When I get a chance to retry will I be able to just glue again or will I need to sand back to wood to clear the old glue off?
You need to sand most of the glue off.
However, it might be interesting to find out if the epoxy used is compatible with the resin coating on the plywood at all, or if it's a case of incorrect mixture of epoxy and hardener. Some epoxy types are very fussy with the exact hardener mixture and correct mixing.
There's also different epoxy chemistries. I'm not really familiar with the exact workings but it seems some simply doesn't bond with eachother and that could be the case here. Try some scrap pieces of the coated plywood and glue them together with the resin. You can try different hardener mixtures too.
However, it might be interesting to find out if the epoxy used is compatible with the resin coating on the plywood at all, or if it's a case of incorrect mixture of epoxy and hardener. Some epoxy types are very fussy with the exact hardener mixture and correct mixing.
There's also different epoxy chemistries. I'm not really familiar with the exact workings but it seems some simply doesn't bond with eachother and that could be the case here. Try some scrap pieces of the coated plywood and glue them together with the resin. You can try different hardener mixtures too.
Wow, I am sorry to hear that the glue up failed. That had to create a real lump in the stomach.
My research has pointed to using polyurathane based glues (e.g gorilla glue) on the coated ply. Saturnus' suggestion to test some scraps is a very good one. I would also suggest scuffing the surface and cleaning it with a solvent. There may be some release agents left from manufacturing that affect bond strength.
As for clamping, you need to but you do not want to clamp too tight though. In theory it is possible squeeze out so much glue that the joint is starved. .
My research has pointed to using polyurathane based glues (e.g gorilla glue) on the coated ply. Saturnus' suggestion to test some scraps is a very good one. I would also suggest scuffing the surface and cleaning it with a solvent. There may be some release agents left from manufacturing that affect bond strength.
As for clamping, you need to but you do not want to clamp too tight though. In theory it is possible squeeze out so much glue that the joint is starved. .
Epoxies don't penetrate well into surfaces, they're repelled by oil, they shrink when they cure and they cure hard... probably not the best glue for this application.
It's definitely salvageable. Scrape off what's there, don't worry about getting every last speck of it but make sure the surfaces you're gluing are mostly bare wood again. Then use a urethane construction adhesive like Loctite PL.
It's definitely salvageable. Scrape off what's there, don't worry about getting every last speck of it but make sure the surfaces you're gluing are mostly bare wood again. Then use a urethane construction adhesive like Loctite PL.
I'd be a bit worried about the 10mm gap - that's a big space to fill with glue or compression, neither of which would be strong. Ideally everything should dry fit together with no gaps and the clamping is to hold the bits in the right place while the glue sets.
You might need a careful think how you might reduce the gaps, maybe routing out some space or adding extra supports.
Also re the epoxy - I had joints fail on my mini during construction, partly because it ran away from the edges, and partly due to over compressing. In the end there just wasnt enough epoxy where it was needed.
You might need a careful think how you might reduce the gaps, maybe routing out some space or adding extra supports.
Also re the epoxy - I had joints fail on my mini during construction, partly because it ran away from the edges, and partly due to over compressing. In the end there just wasnt enough epoxy where it was needed.
I am really pleased with the material. It is amazing.
Here are some more photos:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I still have some work to do with the router table...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And..unfortunately there is some rework (boneheaded me made the verticals square so they are too wide by the dado depth). I will likely take them back to the CNC shop but I am stinging from the extra $400 of programming charges that were not in the budget. The fit and finish is so nice it would be a shame to sully it with a more manual process - even thought I have the right equipment to do it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ah crap. Should've asked. CNC programming is like a 2nd language to me. They probably use a form of XNC or similar so it would accept generic G-code.
My to-do list includes:
1) Finish cut through of divider holes (it is a damn thick onion skin so I'll use hole saw w/o pilot bit drill press). Repeat 120 times
2) Set up router table with round over bit
- port openings - 24 times
- divider openings - 240 times (both sides!)
- speaker opening - 24 times
3) Fix bonehead mistake - step one
-- set router up so but is 6mm high and proud of fence by size of mistake. This will allow me to use cnc cut as a guide- repeat 48 times
4) Fix bonehead mistake - step two
-- use flush cut bit to trim remaining material - repeat 48 times.
5) Use flush cut bit to trim edges of
-- port pieces
-- covers
6) Layout crossover and cut backer boards
7) Figure out shipping...
A lot of work to do...
1) Finish cut through of divider holes (it is a damn thick onion skin so I'll use hole saw w/o pilot bit drill press). Repeat 120 times
2) Set up router table with round over bit
- port openings - 24 times
- divider openings - 240 times (both sides!)
- speaker opening - 24 times
3) Fix bonehead mistake - step one
-- set router up so but is 6mm high and proud of fence by size of mistake. This will allow me to use cnc cut as a guide- repeat 48 times
4) Fix bonehead mistake - step two
-- use flush cut bit to trim remaining material - repeat 48 times.
5) Use flush cut bit to trim edges of
-- port pieces
-- covers
6) Layout crossover and cut backer boards
7) Figure out shipping...
A lot of work to do...
Dude, it looks even better than I imagined. Sorry for the error and extra work. But man, it looks so pro !
Even a bone head like me should be able to finish the assembly and have a great Boominator with this nice flat pack.
I wish we could see tins more people making them this way so we could see them in different colors...
Thank you so much for all your time and efforts here. No way I would ever have been able to get a hold of something so nice.
I would have ended up with a Homer Simpson looking boom box.
Even a bone head like me should be able to finish the assembly and have a great Boominator with this nice flat pack.
I wish we could see tins more people making them this way so we could see them in different colors...
Thank you so much for all your time and efforts here. No way I would ever have been able to get a hold of something so nice.
I would have ended up with a Homer Simpson looking boom box.
Completed today:
1) Finish cut through of divider holes (it is a damn thick onion skin so I'll use hole saw w/o pilot bit drill press). Repeat 120 times
2) Set up router table with round over bit
- port openings - 24 times
- divider openings - 240 times (both sides!)
5) Use flush cut bit to trim edges of
-- port pieces
-- covers
6) Cut backer boards
1) Finish cut through of divider holes (it is a damn thick onion skin so I'll use hole saw w/o pilot bit drill press). Repeat 120 times
2) Set up router table with round over bit
- port openings - 24 times
- divider openings - 240 times (both sides!)
5) Use flush cut bit to trim edges of
-- port pieces
-- covers
6) Cut backer boards