Or could I just buy the two piezo Monacor MPT-001's from mcmelectronics.com instead of buying the two Goldwood and switching out their drivers for the ones on the GRS PZ1005. Any thoughts or would either route produce a pretty similar sound quality?
Pretty similar, yes. The horn/driver exchange combo like using originals is marginally better. You'll be the judge if it's worth the trouble.
Hey all, I've got a "North American basic" set of drivers for sale, if anyone is interested. I bought the set, but then aterren twisted my arm into taking a P. Audio set off his hands 🙂
4 x GW-1058s and 4 x PiezoSource KSN-1001As, $250 shipped to the continental US.
4 x GW-1058s and 4 x PiezoSource KSN-1001As, $250 shipped to the continental US.
I am thinking of using the Goldwood GT-1058s 10" Pro Woofers along with the driver exchange with the GRSPZ1005 and the GT-1001. This should be fine, right? Might use two 12V SLA batteries in series to get the output to 36W vs. the 9W. I have a buddy who studied circuitry in the military; he also has all the tools for the cutting and cabinet creation. Any place for the circular tubing for the resonance?
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I am thinking of using the Goldwood GT-1058s 10" Pro Woofers along with the driver exchange with the GRSPZ1005 and the GT-1001. This should be fine, right? Might use two 12V SLA batteries in series to get the output to 36W vs. the 9W. I have a buddy who studied circuitry in the military; he also has all the tools for the cutting and cabinet creation. Any place for the circular tubing for the resonance?
The MaxAmp has a max input voltage of 14V, so not suitable for SLAs in series.
Hi micahbf - at first I was going to use the maxamp20 but because I want more output I am going to use the Sure TK2050 2x100 RMS 12-30V Amplifier - I will either buy two 12V SLA batteries or use one 24V. Also, is there any other amplifier out there I could use other than the Tk2050 that would give me more sound? Also, do the amp hours need to match for the two 12V SLA batteries connected in series?
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Please have a listen at it built with a 12V amp first as originally intended. It is already quite literally deafeningly loud.
A halfinator at 24V would match the Boominator on 12V. I think it would be a good choice. Otherwise you're only putting out 2x8W, which is on the low side. With two 7.2Ah in series you'd still have plenty of runtime.
14.4Ah should last me about 14 hours at 80% so I'll probably do this as I am really pushing for the most output possible; also, I was looking at amplifiers and was wondering what the cAMP commonly used for? Where did you get 16W? P=(12^2)/(2*8)=144/16= 9W
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In series it's still 7.2Ah but 24V (or 25.6V really). The 8W was from the top of my head. That formula is for maximum output, useable output is often that number times 0.8 or so.
The cAMP is the ideal amp on 12V (it will go in production shortly I believe), but it doesn't work on 24V. TK2050 seems the best option for you.
The cAMP is the ideal amp on 12V (it will go in production shortly I believe), but it doesn't work on 24V. TK2050 seems the best option for you.
If I'm not worried about money - this would also be a good amplifier
Hifimediy T4 mcap, TK2050 amplifier, 2 x180W @ 8ohm? Will definitely decrease the battery life though.
Hifimediy T4 mcap, TK2050 amplifier, 2 x180W @ 8ohm? Will definitely decrease the battery life though.
Seems like it doesn't use a TK2050 chip. Anway; don't do that. Remember; you can't get more than 35-40W per channel in 8 ohm with two 12V batteries in series. It just won't happen, even money can't fix that. Higher voltage or lower impedance can though.
Just go with a 24V lead acid and TK2050 setup. You won't regret it. It will go very loud while being pretty efficient at the same time.
Just go with a 24V lead acid and TK2050 setup. You won't regret it. It will go very loud while being pretty efficient at the same time.
Sounds good. Just making sure I weigh all my options before I commit to anything. Looks like the Goldwood GW-1058s are going to take the cake as the lighter Eminence's S2010s just aren't that necessary in my mind. Oh yeah, my buddy did mention I will probably need resistors. Also, I was looking at the circuit schematics and found a couple - what do you think of these
http://i62.tinypic.com/2s9en7p.png
http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad137/wrlinville/BoomSchematic_zpsac7b1517.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2s9en7p.png
http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad137/wrlinville/BoomSchematic_zpsac7b1517.jpg
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And with the S2010's you have to use horns which also add to the cost and weight.
Do you want to use the piezos or the horn tweeters?
The second diagram is for the MINI, first one can be used. Although it's not of much use to you as your system is completely different. Once you have a parts list we can make a custom diagram for you if you want.
Do you want to use the piezos or the horn tweeters?
The second diagram is for the MINI, first one can be used. Although it's not of much use to you as your system is completely different. Once you have a parts list we can make a custom diagram for you if you want.
Goldwood GW-1058s with the GRS PZ1005 piezo horn tweeters but with the Goldwood GT-1001 driver.
GRS PZ1005 piezo horn tweeters but with the Goldwood GT-1001 driver.
The other way around. The GRS driver and the Goldwood horn.
LoudSpeaker got back to me and told me that they have the HP10W in stock for 39.99 a piece plus shipping. The Goldwood GW-1058s are 46.89 a piece.
I was looking over sellers for the Sure TK2050 2x100W Amplifier - are these boards the same? I'm pretty sure they are but Sure's price is ~10$ cheaper. Thanks, Jon
2x100W at 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-T Audio Amplifier Board Only
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 X 100 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board (T-AMP Technology)
2x100W at 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-T Audio Amplifier Board Only
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 X 100 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board (T-AMP Technology)
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