I think it is done. It's been a long while since it was up and, honestly it didn't have that much useful info, rather it was a good outline.
Here is a teaser of something new:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cross overs done. Now I need to round over the baffles, do a test glue up and driver fit, and decide if i need to drill dowel holes for the baffle to aid in alignment.
Alignment dowels for the port are perfect. Larger picture
Center brace routing is done.
A battery fits perfectly:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Alignment dowels for the port are perfect. Larger picture
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Center brace routing is done.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A battery fits perfectly:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hey, you've been holding out on us Micahbf. Nice blog. Where did you run across Anderson connectors? Are you into R/C?
Thanks! Guess I was just shy about the blog
I think I originally came across the Powerpoles just googling around for good low power DC connectors. I've been really happy with them so far! No experience with R/C, though.As for the fuse on the battery, yeahhh, realized that not too long after installing it. Oh well, double safe!
That isn't a phrase I thought I'd read. Kinda orthogonal to the whole point of a blog, isn't it?
Thanks! Guess I was just shy about the blog
As for the fuse on the battery, yeahhh, realized that not too long after installing it. Oh well, double safe!
And the MaxAmp is also already fused. So that would make your system triple fused
Nothing to be shy of, looks great! What is the connector under the cigarette plug by the way?
Getting close...
Progress Update:
Ready to glue up ports. All glue surfaces have been scuffed with 80 grit sandpaper and wiped clean with a damp cloth. The damp cloth leaves a bit of water behind to aid in the glue drying.
Clamping the port. In the second picture you will see I used way to much glue.
Once dry, the dowels need to be trimmed and excess glue needs to be removed where the center brace meets the port and on the inside of the port.
Another view of parts sanded and wiped down:
Next is a glue up dry run. Tip: Always do a dry run. This will help ensure you have enough clamps and help you with the assembly order. For example, I found the assembly was easiest if I put port end plate in, the the divider, then the middle divider. Without the dry run I would have had to discover that while handling parts with wet glue
This sticker on one basement window when we bought the house. I put my glue up table under this window. I figure that ensures all glue up results are 'just ducky'. I don't know what I would have done if it had been a Goofy sticker.
Drying:
And the result:
Progress Update:
Ready to glue up ports. All glue surfaces have been scuffed with 80 grit sandpaper and wiped clean with a damp cloth. The damp cloth leaves a bit of water behind to aid in the glue drying.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Clamping the port. In the second picture you will see I used way to much glue.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Once dry, the dowels need to be trimmed and excess glue needs to be removed where the center brace meets the port and on the inside of the port.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Another view of parts sanded and wiped down:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Next is a glue up dry run. Tip: Always do a dry run. This will help ensure you have enough clamps and help you with the assembly order. For example, I found the assembly was easiest if I put port end plate in, the the divider, then the middle divider. Without the dry run I would have had to discover that while handling parts with wet glue
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This sticker on one basement window when we bought the house. I put my glue up table under this window. I figure that ensures all glue up results are 'just ducky'. I don't know what I would have done if it had been a Goofy sticker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Drying:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the result:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the MaxAmp is also already fused. So that would make your system triple fused
Hah, well I guess I have a boombox fit for NASA!
lutkeveld said:
That is panel mount powerpole connections for the charger or any accessories.
I think you should also consider aluminium, because when it is anodized, it is far more scratch resistant than stainless steel, in fact stainless steel is probably one of the worst product names in the history of products because it does stain quite readily.
The negative is that you have to anodize it yourself, but it is not that difficult and you can give it funky colours.