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60 WPC Amplifier for DIY Turntable Motor Drive
60 WPC Amplifier for DIY Turntable Motor Drive
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Old 31st December 2016, 11:21 PM   #21
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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Pyramid, one more favor, do you have part numbers and source for the 16 pin sockets and the ribbon cable

Thanks Greg
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Old 1st January 2017, 01:41 PM   #22
Pyramid is offline Pyramid  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flamethrower1 View Post
Pyramid, one more favor, do you have part numbers and source for the 16 pin sockets and the ribbon cable

Thanks Greg
The socket from Digikey is PN ED3016-ND.

The cable from Digikey is PN H8PPH-1618G-ND.

The socket is fairly generic and can be found almost anywhere. The cable is also common, just be sure the IDC connectors on reversed (pointing in opposite directions) on each end.
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Old 7th January 2017, 01:37 PM   #23
wolf_skate is offline wolf_skate  Denmark
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Hi Pyramid
since you have been so very helpful sorting me out .. I'm going to order all small bits and pieces now..the main SG4 PCB you made a Mouser shopping list = suits me fine wrt Denmark ordering/shipping.

Now the rotary PCB needs " 4013 dual D flip-flop "..and mouser has them
http://www.mouser.dk/Semiconductors/...d=4013&FS=True

but which SMD footprint to take?

thanks again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid View Post
....

If you go with the rotary encoder, you might want to purchase the PCB for mounting the switch and parts:

https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/AbsVI39H

It uses surface mount parts, but you only need the IC and the 2 caps (0.47uFd) if you use the Arduino rotary switch (3 R's on on the switch already). You can also use the RA header that comes with the switch.
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Old 7th January 2017, 02:07 PM   #24
Pyramid is offline Pyramid  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf_skate View Post
The rotary PCB needs "4013 dual D flip-flop"..and mouser has them, but which SMD footprint to take?
The PCB is laid out for an SO14 pkg IC. The caps are 1206 (3216 metric) and the Rs are 0805 (2012 Metric).
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Old 14th January 2017, 08:39 PM   #25
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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is this how you did your boards?
I have never soldred parts this small or surface mount parts before

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0KZ...0#t=304.065878
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Old 14th January 2017, 09:48 PM   #26
Pyramid is offline Pyramid  United States
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The video is a preferred or at least a good method, but for a few parts like this, not necessary.

I solder surface mount ICs by wetting one pad of the PCB layout (usually one of the corners) with a very small amount of solder, forming a slight "dome". Holding the IC with a tweezers, align all of the legs of the IC with the PCB pads while holding the IC against the PCB, sliding the pin over the wetted pad so everything is centered. Reflow the wetted pad so that pin of the IC is captive. Realign the part if necessary so all of the pins of the IC are centered on the pads. Solder the opposite corner of the IC to the pad by heating the pad and pin at the same time and applying solder where all three (pin, pad, soldering iron) meet. If the part is square and flat to the PCB, solder the remaining pins the same way, one pin at a time; if not, it can be re-centered by reflowing one corner at a time and shifting the part. If you bridge 2 pins, use solder wick to remove the excess. Using a small solder pen and small diameter solder (0.031" or smaller) is a must.

Solder the caps the same way: Wet one of the pads of the PCB. With a tweezer, hold the part in place against the solder dome and reflow it as the part slides into place. Reflow the other side of the cap.
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Old 25th January 2017, 03:37 PM   #27
TomWh is offline TomWh  United States
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Hi Bill

Got on the goodies need to get off my lazy butt and get this rotary encoder gizmo going. The ky-040 module I got has resistors R2 and R3 10k on it. It does not have R1. Is R1 needed?

Also if using the board plugging the 5 pins to the thru hole, do you need to bridge the R2 and R3 traces or are these parallel resistors?

In reading all the threads again I see if you need to set phase angle you will have to go to Sg4 board. I do not remember seeing how to adjust set down voltage. Might have to read thru again.

Well as always Thanks , you have been more than generous with your time and expertise.

Tom
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Old 25th January 2017, 05:07 PM   #28
Pyramid is offline Pyramid  United States
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Tom-

If R1 is missing, I would add it, either on the KY-040 module or the interface PCB. The resistors are in parallel, so do not add both.

Reduced voltage, phase adjustment and factory default need the buttons pressed before exiting standby, so those have to be done using the buttons on the PCB and not the rotary encoder. I would put the switches on the SG4 and wire the interface PCB in parallel with them; it does no harm to do this. Generally, you will set the phase and voltage once (or very infrequently), so you do not need access to the buttons on a day to day basis, only when you find the need to change the settings.
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Old 25th January 2017, 09:40 PM   #29
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomWh View Post
Hi Bill

Got on the goodies need to get off my lazy butt and get this rotary encoder gizmo going. The ky-040 module I got has resistors R2 and R3 10k on it. It does not have R1. Is R1 needed?

Also if using the board plugging the 5 pins to the thru hole, do you need to bridge the R2 and R3 traces or are these parallel resistors?

In reading all the threads again I see if you need to set phase angle you will have to go to Sg4 board. I do not remember seeing how to adjust set down voltage. Might have to read thru again.

Well as always Thanks , you have been more than generous with your time and expertise.

Tom
Glad I saw this post.
Looked at mine and it is the same way, no R1
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Old 25th January 2017, 11:08 PM   #30
wolf_skate is offline wolf_skate  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid View Post
....
Reduced voltage, phase adjustment and factory default need the buttons pressed before exiting standby, so those have to be done using the buttons on the PCB and not the rotary encoder....
could I add yet another single press button parallel across all SW (or those needed) to force phase adjust controlled from rotary /front panel?.. Thought making a small hole in front panel w this switch behind it.. like sometimes seen wrt a rest button.. to put a pin in and activate. As phase adjust is what I'd like to do on the fly w/o having to open controller box

thanks
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