So the AIO438 cannot really be used in a speaker enclosure with the plate kit then? Without modding the board and adding an external antenna?
If it was me, I'd pull all the output wiring and just go across the output terminal pairs, one by one, temporarily touching the screw heads with a test speaker leads. Just to debug to the amp board level.4 channel
3000 Hz crossover
Thx for quick reply
The amp doesnt seem to mind driving into an open load. I'm listening right now with 2 channels capacitively loaded to ground through 2K of resistance on just one "side"; the opposite "pull" output not loaded at all. (A small SE tube amp buffers the sound after line level conversion...) So you should be able to do the above test without issue - as long as you dont short the channel outputs when touching wires...
I notice your amp is hard electrically connected to the chassis, versus using the plastic standoffs provided in the kit. Not that that has anything to do with it, unless the particular output connectors, unknown to me, also bolted to chassis are making some kind of unanticipated connection. Has anyone else done this particular mounting?
My gosh, that little amp implementation is a fighter. I'd definitely upload the latest firmware.
You said (above) that it passed the test speaker touch to terminal test, but again doesnt work when in the chassis, amp on the plastic standoffs, analog input jack disconnected, output signals going through the 4-pin output connectors?
Now I'd really go nutz and ohm-out each wire to an extra speaker plug inserted into that output connector, for both continuity and isolation to the other 3 wires and chassis - even if any possible issue with those connections has to be practically impossible. Or connect 4 speaker cables directly to the AIO4CH board's screw terminals, bypassing the installed output connectors, see if all 4 channels work then.
Sorry to read your assembly is giving you such a hard time. Any chance the V supply negative connects to chassis? I see the input RCAs are nicely isolated - but I'm just grabbin at straws now! Hate to see someone have to go connection-by-connection, starting with the naked amp board on a tabletop...
You said (above) that it passed the test speaker touch to terminal test, but again doesnt work when in the chassis, amp on the plastic standoffs, analog input jack disconnected, output signals going through the 4-pin output connectors?
Now I'd really go nutz and ohm-out each wire to an extra speaker plug inserted into that output connector, for both continuity and isolation to the other 3 wires and chassis - even if any possible issue with those connections has to be practically impossible. Or connect 4 speaker cables directly to the AIO4CH board's screw terminals, bypassing the installed output connectors, see if all 4 channels work then.
Sorry to read your assembly is giving you such a hard time. Any chance the V supply negative connects to chassis? I see the input RCAs are nicely isolated - but I'm just grabbin at straws now! Hate to see someone have to go connection-by-connection, starting with the naked amp board on a tabletop...
@Defo
If you want to use the external antenna you indeed have to remove a 0 ohm resistor.
It will be clearly noted in the documentation, but you could not have known since it is not online yet.
@superlian
Your firmware is functionallity not different from the standard firmware. It's only one byte set to 'true', which will make the amp power on by default instead of powering off.
You say "Now it doesnt work again in the cabinet."
Does that mean it only works when not mounted in the cabinet?
Try to introduce as little variables per step as possible.
So if it works, slowly mount it, then attach speakers, then attach the 10 pin connector etc...
If you want to use the external antenna you indeed have to remove a 0 ohm resistor.
It will be clearly noted in the documentation, but you could not have known since it is not online yet.
@superlian
Your firmware is functionallity not different from the standard firmware. It's only one byte set to 'true', which will make the amp power on by default instead of powering off.
You say "Now it doesnt work again in the cabinet."
Does that mean it only works when not mounted in the cabinet?
Try to introduce as little variables per step as possible.
So if it works, slowly mount it, then attach speakers, then attach the 10 pin connector etc...
My, what beautiful blue eyes s/he has!
Just plug in the 3.5mm analog input jack / cable assembly back into the board connector, connect your music source to it - and the amp should auto-detect and switch over to the analog in.
Crazy making, those grounds...glad to read you got it working!
Just plug in the 3.5mm analog input jack / cable assembly back into the board connector, connect your music source to it - and the amp should auto-detect and switch over to the analog in.
Crazy making, those grounds...glad to read you got it working!
Hello friends of nice sound! I just wanted to chime in as a proud owner of a Zoudio AIO4CH. And hello to Jesse, thanks for your perfect support so far (via email). Since you said you preferred to post my findings and suggestions here, I will do so
1. I read somewhere that the amp can be powered on as soon as it gets power at its terminal (without pressing encoder button). Is that true? Would be nice in case you plan to hook a step up converter to the input. Now I have to power up the step up and then the amp.
2. Is it still possible to change the BT name after the purchase, maybe even via programming tool?
3. Did you already adjust the LED brightness? The blue LED is very bright and the red/green LED is by far less bright.
4. Maybe it would be a nice add-on to include a step-up converter for stable battery operation and max. power. Any thoughts?
5. If I use my boombox coupled to my PC via BT, I sometimes get cracking noises (hard to describe and not that embarrassing) This does not happen if I use my iPhone XS. PC uses onboard BT (Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX200, Mobo is a Gigabyte Aorus X570 Pro WIFI, Win 10, newest drivers, some overclock). Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Arne
www.woodwave.eu
1. I read somewhere that the amp can be powered on as soon as it gets power at its terminal (without pressing encoder button). Is that true? Would be nice in case you plan to hook a step up converter to the input. Now I have to power up the step up and then the amp.
2. Is it still possible to change the BT name after the purchase, maybe even via programming tool?
3. Did you already adjust the LED brightness? The blue LED is very bright and the red/green LED is by far less bright.
4. Maybe it would be a nice add-on to include a step-up converter for stable battery operation and max. power. Any thoughts?
5. If I use my boombox coupled to my PC via BT, I sometimes get cracking noises (hard to describe and not that embarrassing) This does not happen if I use my iPhone XS. PC uses onboard BT (Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX200, Mobo is a Gigabyte Aorus X570 Pro WIFI, Win 10, newest drivers, some overclock). Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Arne
www.woodwave.eu
why can the board take 24V from a PSU but not from a battery pack? I'm missing some basic knowledge about batteries I think.
Tommus:
Voltage from a battery pack will inevitably vary pending on the capacity, chemistry, state and use. These kits can tolerate a maximum Voltage of 26V, if you have a battery pack that is fully charged at say 24 volts and when it's empty sags to about 18 volts that's a pretty big difference. A couple of classic led batteries in series is frequently just over 27V when fully charged, sometimes up towards 28V, this is too high voltage for this amplifier.
If you have a DC/DC booster you can input for instance 12V from a single car battery and out to the amp you can keep the voltage constantly at 26V if you wish. Big deal if you want maximum power output.
Voltage from a battery pack will inevitably vary pending on the capacity, chemistry, state and use. These kits can tolerate a maximum Voltage of 26V, if you have a battery pack that is fully charged at say 24 volts and when it's empty sags to about 18 volts that's a pretty big difference. A couple of classic led batteries in series is frequently just over 27V when fully charged, sometimes up towards 28V, this is too high voltage for this amplifier.
If you have a DC/DC booster you can input for instance 12V from a single car battery and out to the amp you can keep the voltage constantly at 26V if you wish. Big deal if you want maximum power output.
won't an 18V battery pack also sag to maybe 12V? if so, why is that OK?
why couldn't the 27-28V batteries in series be regulated to 24-26V?
The kit can tolerate low voltages just fine, you just will not get maximum voltage swing on the output which is important for some users but irrelevant for others.
You can regulate down the voltage, but a classic regulator circuit might also drop in output when the input voltage is reduced. It depends a bit on what kind of regulator circuit you're talking about here.
It really does not matter as long as you stay within 12-26 Volts somewhere, while I did my testing on the first version I found that higher voltage had significant advantage over lower voltage because of previously mentioned limitation of output voltage swing. Higher voltage is just more dynamic and less prone to distort and clip.
You can regulate down the voltage, but a classic regulator circuit might also drop in output when the input voltage is reduced. It depends a bit on what kind of regulator circuit you're talking about here.
It really does not matter as long as you stay within 12-26 Volts somewhere, while I did my testing on the first version I found that higher voltage had significant advantage over lower voltage because of previously mentioned limitation of output voltage swing. Higher voltage is just more dynamic and less prone to distort and clip.