If you do the CD EQing passively you will also gain a little in the SNR department.
Very nice looking speakers BTW. I have the same horn CD combo but haven't done a lot with it so far. It will be used for a large MTM.
Regards
Charles
Edit: I was a little unclear with my statement. I mean the use of a lead filter or parallel RC combination for the equalisation, not the already mentioned use of a series capacitor alone. This is what I will do with mine. This way the amp with about 40 Watts per channel will run at a higher level in the midrange, hopfully high enough to reduce crossover distortion. I guess most of the times when people claim that 16 Ohm drivers sound better than 8 Ohm drivers it is due to the amp running at higher amplitude. That does of course only account for push-pull and not for single-ended (which get more linear the lower the signal level).
Very nice looking speakers BTW. I have the same horn CD combo but haven't done a lot with it so far. It will be used for a large MTM.
Regards
Charles
Edit: I was a little unclear with my statement. I mean the use of a lead filter or parallel RC combination for the equalisation, not the already mentioned use of a series capacitor alone. This is what I will do with mine. This way the amp with about 40 Watts per channel will run at a higher level in the midrange, hopfully high enough to reduce crossover distortion. I guess most of the times when people claim that 16 Ohm drivers sound better than 8 Ohm drivers it is due to the amp running at higher amplitude. That does of course only account for push-pull and not for single-ended (which get more linear the lower the signal level).
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Yes Sir. Built and Designed from Scratch. It's a looker for sure (especially after its cleaned up 🙂 ), .. in the minimalist sense
D3a in single ended mode -> ElectraPrint InterStage Transformers -> 2A3 push pull -> Reclaimed Output Transformer from a vintage Fisher 800C receiver. All power supply caps are motor runs - no electrolytics.
The power transformer is outboard. I used to use tube rectification but it was really crowded underneath so I swapped to solid state diodes.
In other news, the replacement class D amp I ordered off amazon prime happened not to be in stock in the US - so it's shipping from China 🙁 . I'll have to make do for this weekends experiments. I did sell off my old minidsp and used the funds towards the purchase of a minidsp 2 x 4 HD . This has USB input and that will allow me to use my PC or my raspberry pi as a HI-FI source without resorting to another DAC. Maybe I should sell off my DAC too 🙂
More results to come this weekend
You won't regret that horn - CD combo.IT's very nice sounding .
I'll figureout what I want to do re. crossovers once I have a chance to measure. Might be needing some help from the friendly folks on this forum if I decided to build a passive crossover.
Too busy with life.
In retrospect, here are the shortcomings of this horn
1a. No real low bass. The ported mod + boost results in lower bass, but it isn't as impactful as real horn loaded bass (at least to me - glowing reviews elsewhere on the web notwithstanding)
1b. Adding my horn loaded sub (table tuba) yielded an excellent match - really complemented the midbass horns (even when I (as an experiment) high passed the horn sub at 45 Hz) - lending further weight to 1a.
1c. Doing some horn resp simulations, if i reduce the back chamber size by 1/3 - 1/2 - possibly using styrofoam blocks, the reactance annulling should bring up the midbass at around 70 Hz or so with a steep roll off below that. Might be worth a try, expecially since I intend to use this horn with a sub
1d. I swapped in crites cast frame drivers. They go a little lower in bass than the kappa 15c but the (cheaper kappa 15c) sound subjectively better overall and do midrange better.
2. I would like to get the CD horn to go about 100 - 150 Hz lower - i.e. around 400 Hz as I feel the transition with the midbass horn will be even more seamless. Right now, certain notes can be suppressed.
I doubt this driver / horn is the right combo for this task. Might have to consider other alternatives.
Once I have a little more time on my hands, I'll continue with this project
If you have any questions in particular, feel free to PM me.
The Qts of the Kappa 15C is too low to vent properly (in the vented LaScala/Belle).
The optimum Qts = 0.312 for this to work properly.
The optimum Qts = 0.312 for this to work properly.
Hi
I tried this with the crites cast frame woofers too with the same results . Not sure why the stamped vs cast frame woofers should vary so much in qts (see link). Maybe I should measure mine
https://community.klipsch.com/index...s-cw1526cf-ts/&do=findComment&comment=1731834
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