Zaph Bargain Aluminum MTM - something missing - help

[J.R.Freeman]

I don't know if you can alter a capacitor's behaviour with overheated soldering.

Hi there,

This thread is rather old (and entertaining!) but I thought I would jump in on this point you've brought up. I've done a little board population for the company I work for, and have seen capacitors and resistors change value after having heat applied to them, for presumably too long. Once or twice might have been my fault! 😛

I should mention that these components were rather small surface mount devices, but still I found it interesting. The capacitance following thermal damage seemed to fall, presumably as the internal 'plates' were effectively reduced in area through build-up or destruction. Or perhaps the properties of the insulator were altered by the heat or both. For resistors, the resistance went up, with some resistors measuring as open circuits.

Too much heat can certainly alter the performance of such devices!

Jim

 

[Sutton]

10" optional driver crossover additions?

Can anyone help?

I am currently building the Zaph Audio BAMTM and would like to add the 10” side firing driver as the option he mentioned in his design. but can someone provide a crossover that I might use to cross over from the Dayton DA175-8 to the 10” driver?

I do know that over- excursion could be an issue with the design (without the 10” drivers) and I am interested in making these more a full range speaker. I am also making the assumption that the upper portion of the cabinet containing the MTM is run as a closed system and the 10” speaker is run vented? Or is it possible to run the top and bottom portions both vented? I was thinking of possibly running the top vented with vents to the rear of the cabinet, and running the bottom portion vented to the front of the cabinet.

I would like to use a Bravox driver (the Parts Express closeout 269-519) instead of the Dayton, so I don't know how close anyone can get me, and maybe I'll purchase the recommended Dayton drivers anyway,

I already have everything ready to go, and am ready to begin gluing and screwing, so any help is really appreciated. I had even considered running the 10” drivers as an active system, but would rather run passive and have a separate 15” powered sub woofer which can reach way down there..

Thanks in advance for any crossover suggestions. I have built other Zaph Audio designs and KNOW his designs are some of the best I have ever heard. I especially love the aluminum design using all Seas drivers. Some of my favorite speakers..