I've been using this for quite a while, and I'm still breathing (I think).
Don't worry, be happy.
First sample of real handmade spiderleggs with same shape as orginal sides. Absolutely stunning quality. Just bolt on. Adjust listening vertical angle with center back-leg screw. Sins they are higher than orginal they are little less tilted but fully adjustable with back leg screw. Can be completely vertical and also fully tilted.
I have an fine carpenter by my close related. And we have a nice cooperation about this.
I have an fine carpenter by my close related. And we have a nice cooperation about this.
Attachments
Last edited:
These looks gorgeous! I have only legs made out of mdf sheets cut out, but painted to match the overall theme of the speaker.
The parts in the EHT do have their own sonic signatures.
I decided to roll my own. Check out my adventure here; the Gerber file is included.
I decided to roll my own. Check out my adventure here; the Gerber file is included.
Interesting reading. The EHTs in my post is for a person who like it as original as possible. And I decided to just change diodes sins they can get leaky. What is the best caps to use do you think? Any link?
Polypropylene's, best compromise IMO, but they're much bigger than the original ceramics, hence the new PCB's.
You can keep the original size by using 1 high voltage diode (4kV) iso 2.
https://esl.drakkapps.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/IMG_7310-768x576.png
https://esl.drakkapps.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/IMG_7310-768x576.png
I am skeptical that the power supply caps would make any difference due to the long time constant for charging the panels. But I'm willing to entertain that idea vs on the 63's where there is an air-gap between the HV supply and the panels.
Sheldon
Sheldon
Bass cell is fine. Treble cell is under construction. More tricky this one.
Agree with you Sheldon. I dont think it will do any difference sins if you unpower the panels they play with full power for a while...
