I have a PM in to the Jedi Master Hi_Q about this but I thought I'd ask the boards too.
I'd like to turn one of the inputs on the back of the MC-10L into a pre-out. Would it just be as easy as tapping into the outputs of the preamp section and running wires back to the RCA sockets of my choosing?
I'd like to turn one of the inputs on the back of the MC-10L into a pre-out. Would it just be as easy as tapping into the outputs of the preamp section and running wires back to the RCA sockets of my choosing?
It may not be so simple, as any tap on to the pre-amp section could be effected by the volume control, not good for recording, but fine if you intend to run a external power amp.
If your requirement is for recording then if your sorce is a CD player then you could just directly connect a set of phono sockets on the the CD input socket (piggy backed) as CD player's have plenty of output (1V min) so have plenty to spare to run a recorder, just a thought.
If your requirement is for recording then if your sorce is a CD player then you could just directly connect a set of phono sockets on the the CD input socket (piggy backed) as CD player's have plenty of output (1V min) so have plenty to spare to run a recorder, just a thought.
Les replied and it isn't simple at all so I'll be scrapping that idea. I'm going to start experimenting with some of the class D circuits and chips and wanted to use the MC-10L as a pre.
Whilst on the subject. Does anyone know how to go about creating a sub-out ?
Will involve combining the L+R into mono after the volume pot.
Will involve combining the L+R into mono after the volume pot.
I'm not into sub's, but I understand some have "Line Inputs" L&R, while others also have "Speaker Level" inputs L&R. So in that case you could just piggy back off the amp's speaker output straight into the sub's Speaker level inputs, Left & Right, no need for fancy circuitry.
Yes, I found the triode mod to be super easy - I'd done so with a little trepidation about rewiring everything back up again, but the results were good enough IMHO to no warrant going back or making it switchable. Most listening after has been with JJ E88CCs up front and JJ KT77s, TungSol EL-34s in back. I've also tried Valve Art 350Bs, but they were "meh" enough to not motivate me to break them in.
Overall sonic impression of the triode conversion has be to significantly widen and deepen (especially deepen, i should say) the soundstage. That said, I'd say that's likely the phase relationship with output impedance and crossover interaction. What sounds good on my CDM7-NTs might sound like poo on your speakers.
Tonally, I didn't sense a notable difference myself.
Power wise, I have about a 15x11 listening room, so there's more than enough volume without my pushing terribly hard either way.
Sounds great, think I can't hold off any longer and must give this a try. Can you tell me which resisters you settled on using ? Thanks
I think they were 250R 5W ceramics. Someone may have a better suggestion though. Just make sure to cut the UL wires right at the tube socket so its as long as possible in case you want to go back - and wrap the end with electrical tape so you don't get any random shorts.
Thanks, I ask because there has been some debates going on in the past about which ones to use. Would be great if anyone could post some photos of the mod too
Triode mode mode time 🙂 can someone help choose the right resistors to use please.
Mills resistors page
tnolan used 250R 5W ceramics, Hifi Collective advise "Please note it is sonically better to use a higher power resistor due to increased surface area". Are they referring to the 250 or to the wattage ?
Mills resistors page
tnolan used 250R 5W ceramics, Hifi Collective advise "Please note it is sonically better to use a higher power resistor due to increased surface area". Are they referring to the 250 or to the wattage ?
When I converted my Jolida 302b to triode mode, I just used Kiwame 100R 2W carbon film resistors. More than adequate for the job.
jeff
jeff
Whilst I got the hood up I will replace the 4x front resisters, others have replaced the rear ones, but why not the front ones ? Seems odd not to and cost little. Guess its the same ones to use: 1K 1W TAKMAN Carbon Film Resistor
I can't wait to hear your impressions. My only concern on doing this is how the triode operation will deal with the load of my two way speakers.