I at the time made a complete recap of 510 euros in total all the mundorf capacitors supreme evo oil, supreme silver oil and mcap for the bass area, and the change is spectacular.
the middle area has much more life, it makes the medium an exquisite sound , and in the tweeters it is the same as in the media, the music now sounds more refined.
but of course all the capacitors that you see in my photo from other posts further back the total price was 510 euros.
but I can swear that it was very well spent and very happy with the final audio result, I advise changing them at the time the original capacitors of these yamaha were very good.
since they were nichicon beeswax capacitors, but the change to put them mundorf like me the change was great.
something else What I just read is that you put those relays that is a deception towards whoever buys it, it is a lie that the media or rather the tweeters burn that is due to misuse.
I have a pioneer a-91d amplifier and this amplifier It delivers 120w per channel, as you already know, the yamaha ns-1000m has 100w and as I told you I put it very, very high and nothing has happened to the tweeters.
the middle area has much more life, it makes the medium an exquisite sound , and in the tweeters it is the same as in the media, the music now sounds more refined.
but of course all the capacitors that you see in my photo from other posts further back the total price was 510 euros.
but I can swear that it was very well spent and very happy with the final audio result, I advise changing them at the time the original capacitors of these yamaha were very good.
since they were nichicon beeswax capacitors, but the change to put them mundorf like me the change was great.
something else What I just read is that you put those relays that is a deception towards whoever buys it, it is a lie that the media or rather the tweeters burn that is due to misuse.
I have a pioneer a-91d amplifier and this amplifier It delivers 120w per channel, as you already know, the yamaha ns-1000m has 100w and as I told you I put it very, very high and nothing has happened to the tweeters.
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fuse relays are definitively a choice; especially when I use the yamaha mx -1000.
rebuilt about 4-pars of ns 1000 crossovers and their caps, inductors, terminals and wiring are usually shot. too bad the midrange develops the magnet pinch. there's a business in japo'n that rebuilds ns 1000's-see youtube. doubt it's a bargain, but it would ne nice.
rebuilt about 4-pars of ns 1000 crossovers and their caps, inductors, terminals and wiring are usually shot. too bad the midrange develops the magnet pinch. there's a business in japo'n that rebuilds ns 1000's-see youtube. doubt it's a bargain, but it would ne nice.
I run a set of RAAL ribbons on mine in place of the original tweeters with an external xo for the ribbons. All my caps are film and I have a set of custom made frame inductors for the bass which I've not fitted yet.
show us a picture, please!
RAAL 70-10D RAAL Ribbon Tweeter with Amorphous Core? 500 each!
RAAL 70-10D RAAL Ribbon Tweeter with Amorphous Core? 500 each!
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Actually 140-15d, they're just plonked on top sideways, I couldn't face modding the cabs, they're quarter cut oak veneered.
raal_vs_yamaha_best_lines | The Yamaha tweeter is the green … | Flickr
IMG_0873 | The Xo point seems a little high and I think prob… | Flickr
The yamaha tweeter is disconnected
IMG_0873 | The Xo point seems a little high and I think prob… | Flickr
The yamaha tweeter is disconnected
sweet! those ribbon tweets are remarkable. simply amazing sound. not a 500 buck option considering the cost difference. but definitely an idea. nice job on those crossovers. man, nice. bet your thumping! any progress on the mids? ideas....
I'm happy with where they are, or rather I can't be bothered with all the work of building the xo externally and going active on the bass.
I have a few friends who have gone all out on theirs though.
jamie's ns1000 external crossover build. - Page 23 - AudioFlat
Adam's NS-1000M External Crossover + Active Bass project - Page 65 - AudioFlat
Marks_Ns1000M | Flickr
The last one is worth a flick through, ms100m with lab gruepen powered 1200w dsp active bass, external xo and supertweeters.
I have a few friends who have gone all out on theirs though.
jamie's ns1000 external crossover build. - Page 23 - AudioFlat
Adam's NS-1000M External Crossover + Active Bass project - Page 65 - AudioFlat
Marks_Ns1000M | Flickr
The last one is worth a flick through, ms100m with lab gruepen powered 1200w dsp active bass, external xo and supertweeters.
have seen the extensive xo rebuilts before...nice work! I already spend more time repairing equipment than listening to music; wandering off into engineering designs would be overwhelming. there are several low-priced options on ribbon tweets on the bay...will explore that option. do recall them sounding amazing, though. a bit concerned with the mids...guess if they go into pinching mode, I'll just use the other pair of ns 1000's that are serving as TT, tables.... nice job on your part. thanks for sharing.
Great looking work on those XO's do you know if they use the original XO values?
Thanks.
Yup racarr the woffer glue was garbage also , 40 years later , none of these can be trusted...huge yamaha error
sq225917,
In the 'how to clean dusty and dirty paper sensitive woofer cone?'
forum you mentioned touse paper tape in dealing with Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
Have you had any trouble with these Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
You are also using a Rall ribon tweeter in your NS1000.
What are your experience about them.
Earlier in this forum soneone mentioned about the magnet bond in his mids
had come off due to the failure of the glue.
I need to do something to protect them before this happens.
Please share yourexperience about Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
John.
In the 'how to clean dusty and dirty paper sensitive woofer cone?'
forum you mentioned touse paper tape in dealing with Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
Have you had any trouble with these Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
You are also using a Rall ribon tweeter in your NS1000.
What are your experience about them.
Earlier in this forum soneone mentioned about the magnet bond in his mids
had come off due to the failure of the glue.
I need to do something to protect them before this happens.
Please share yourexperience about Yamaha
Berilyum domes.
John.
My room is pretty dust free, I just blow over the mid dome to keep it clean. I haven't removed the grills.
I've just noticed that one of my bass cones is fading, so at some point I'll look into re-inking that with suitable ink.
I've just noticed that one of my bass cones is fading, so at some point I'll look into re-inking that with suitable ink.
I’ve never seen evidence of the glue on the midrange magnet failing, but I suppose it possibly could. I don’t see this being an issue as the entire motor is screwed to the faceplate. No problem with the domes, either. Mine are from the first generation production runs.
I do see the glue has come off the woofer magnet where it was applied around the perimeter to the metal, as a result of small corrosion. An error by Yamaha? I hardly think so. It’s unlikely anyone thought these speakers would still be in service 40 years later. Consumer electronics today have a service lifecycle of about 7 years. I’m certain the NS-1000 has given owners more than their money’s worth.
Consider suspension types: foam used by many companies has a lifespan of about ten years, and rubber is about 20 if it’s kept away from uv light. Some last longer, some don’t. The treated cloth on the Yamaha woofer is still acceptable after 40 years. The double layer coating on the tweeter and mid suspension has done well for NS-1000Ms from the earliest production runs.
Sq225917: One of your woofers is fading? Did you have black or natural cellulose color cones from the factory?
I do see the glue has come off the woofer magnet where it was applied around the perimeter to the metal, as a result of small corrosion. An error by Yamaha? I hardly think so. It’s unlikely anyone thought these speakers would still be in service 40 years later. Consumer electronics today have a service lifecycle of about 7 years. I’m certain the NS-1000 has given owners more than their money’s worth.
Consider suspension types: foam used by many companies has a lifespan of about ten years, and rubber is about 20 if it’s kept away from uv light. Some last longer, some don’t. The treated cloth on the Yamaha woofer is still acceptable after 40 years. The double layer coating on the tweeter and mid suspension has done well for NS-1000Ms from the earliest production runs.
Sq225917: One of your woofers is fading? Did you have black or natural cellulose color cones from the factory?
Black. I was lucky enough to buy a pair of ns1000m where the previous owner had bought a complete stereo set of replacement drivers in 94. He still had the receipt and they'd been in storage for ten years, so had seen almost no use.
I can't imagine what a full set of nos boxed drivers would fetch these days
I can't imagine what a full set of nos boxed drivers would fetch these days
Yamaha-NS1000
An unusual crossover in terms of choice of component. 6 x 3.5 uF bipolar electrolytic cabs is part of the mid's high-pass filter.
2.7 uF electrolytic cap for the tweeter; there may be room for improvement in both places.
So afterall the 3.5 uF caps are not PIO caps as mentioned earlier by skme of the deaders.
They are Nichicon BP eletrolytics.
No wonder they fail.🤐
An unusual crossover in terms of choice of component. 6 x 3.5 uF bipolar electrolytic cabs is part of the mid's high-pass filter.
2.7 uF electrolytic cap for the tweeter; there may be room for improvement in both places.
So afterall the 3.5 uF caps are not PIO caps as mentioned earlier by skme of the deaders.
They are Nichicon BP eletrolytics.
No wonder they fail.🤐
