and I also forgot to mention that there is a German company( in or near Bonn I think), who are authorized Quad service guys for electrostatics, who say they can recon blown NS-1000 tweeters. I remember looking at their website and what they variously did in the speaker field, and not doubting this.
I will also investigate to see if I can dig up their contact details.
I will also investigate to see if I can dig up their contact details.
Thanks so much Audiojoy for the prompt response i think you know how i'm feeling as you to seem to be a big fan of these speakers. i desperately awainting your information
hugomac ( and anyone else interested!),
the German company I referred to was I think :
http://www.quad-musik.de/
I have memories of mailing them to confirm they could and would recon blown NS-1000 tweeters
the German company I referred to was I think :
http://www.quad-musik.de/
I have memories of mailing them to confirm they could and would recon blown NS-1000 tweeters
Charles Hyde & Son,
1, Halifax Way
Pocklington Ind. Estate
Pocklington
Yorkshire
YO42 1NR
Tel: 01759 303068
Email: sales@charleshyde.co.uk
Web: http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk
Were the firm I have bought NS-1000 tweeters from and also mid-range units ( ouch - that was expensive...🙂
I may be ebaying my NS-1000 crossover units with pots soon, I am ponering whether to hang on to them or turn them into cash
1, Halifax Way
Pocklington Ind. Estate
Pocklington
Yorkshire
YO42 1NR
Tel: 01759 303068
Email: sales@charleshyde.co.uk
Web: http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk
Were the firm I have bought NS-1000 tweeters from and also mid-range units ( ouch - that was expensive...🙂
I may be ebaying my NS-1000 crossover units with pots soon, I am ponering whether to hang on to them or turn them into cash
Thanks Studiochap but the Hyde & Sons are out of stock so im going to get in contact with the Quad-Musik dealer in Australia. Does anyone know if it's usually just the Voice Coil that breaks. The Veneer on my ns-1000's is pretty bad does anyone know where i can get some original or what type do i get from a timber store & has anyone replaced there's?
I have examined two blown tweeters. One had a fried coil, the other had a broken lead-out "pigtail" wire. The latter had broken because the adhesive holding the coil to the diaphragm had cracked and the coil had become detached in that area. The pigtail had broken due to stress, evidently.
The voice coil is edge-wound. The wire itself is (like) a tinsel ribbon, very thin and very narrow. The coils are stacked with the flat sides touching, one single layer.
The voice coil is edge-wound. The wire itself is (like) a tinsel ribbon, very thin and very narrow. The coils are stacked with the flat sides touching, one single layer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Many Thanks to Studiochap for his connection in Germany called QUAD Musikwiedergabe that will replace the voice coil. I have tried a few speaker repairers in melbourne & they said it couldn't be done or they said it was to difficult on the NS-1000's. I sent two tweeters today & they said it will take 10 days at a cost of 65 Euro each.
http://www.quad-musik.de/
If anyones interested
I will tell you all in about three weeks on there work
http://www.quad-musik.de/
If anyones interested
I will tell you all in about three weeks on there work
"Can't be done" seems to be the consensus. Probably, I imagine, because edge-wound coils are uncommon. I suppose it was just a matter of time before someone found a repairer who "can".
I'm keen to learn the outcome.
I'm keen to learn the outcome.
HI Salas,
hoping to pick your brains again.
Going active seems a step too far for me. I was pondering about the sound i had been getting from my tweaked Yams and had noted earlier in this thread a sound reminiscent of my Avantagrde Duos. This has led me into the fascinating world of single cone full range drivers, with NO crossovers of any kind active or passive. I recently purchased the tiny VALAB 3 inch single drive speakers, and the sound was breathtaking. Like a combination of my Quads and YAms. They were driven with my heavily modified audionote oto at work and produced a sound quality akin to the best I have owned, albeit on a small scale only. Their greatest attribute was the ability to make sense of a piece of music. I guess with the crossover out of the way this makes more sense. Indeed the sound could be described as a parallel to the OTL sound !They cost £50 on Ebay and apparently the drivers are well known in the DIY world. They are ???made of bamboo and are made by TANG BANG. I have had friends listen to these speakers at work and are in agreement at the quite superlative sound they produce. They seem to get everything right from sound staging to tone. So can I therefore surmise that this is the way to go and would by conclusion then be that a beryllium full range cone be a big breakthrough in speaker technology???
I am nervous about going active as i believe i may never get a great sound without purchasing three OTL stereo amps which would cost a fortune. Then again, my jadis the atma-spheres and another solid state might just do the job??????
hoping to pick your brains again.
Going active seems a step too far for me. I was pondering about the sound i had been getting from my tweaked Yams and had noted earlier in this thread a sound reminiscent of my Avantagrde Duos. This has led me into the fascinating world of single cone full range drivers, with NO crossovers of any kind active or passive. I recently purchased the tiny VALAB 3 inch single drive speakers, and the sound was breathtaking. Like a combination of my Quads and YAms. They were driven with my heavily modified audionote oto at work and produced a sound quality akin to the best I have owned, albeit on a small scale only. Their greatest attribute was the ability to make sense of a piece of music. I guess with the crossover out of the way this makes more sense. Indeed the sound could be described as a parallel to the OTL sound !They cost £50 on Ebay and apparently the drivers are well known in the DIY world. They are ???made of bamboo and are made by TANG BANG. I have had friends listen to these speakers at work and are in agreement at the quite superlative sound they produce. They seem to get everything right from sound staging to tone. So can I therefore surmise that this is the way to go and would by conclusion then be that a beryllium full range cone be a big breakthrough in speaker technology???
I am nervous about going active as i believe i may never get a great sound without purchasing three OTL stereo amps which would cost a fortune. Then again, my jadis the atma-spheres and another solid state might just do the job??????
Oh yes, a path that I have walked too...TB3&TB3R. Though in a more enhanced fashion.
To go active at the quality level you require, you need a 3k Pound quality processor, 3 Identical amps, calibrated measurement gear, and to know loudspeaker subtleties as much as an old hand does.
Many will argue that it is much simpler, but it ain't as far as my experience goes. If the Yamaha was using a cone mid, crossing under 200Hz, you could mix a pro bass amp and avoid some costs and have robust bass grip. Alas, it crosses high enough to give away tonal changes... As for a Be wide range, it would not work, since it would include its main ringing mode smack centre where the ear perceives the most. Look for Feastrex field coil.
To go active at the quality level you require, you need a 3k Pound quality processor, 3 Identical amps, calibrated measurement gear, and to know loudspeaker subtleties as much as an old hand does.
Many will argue that it is much simpler, but it ain't as far as my experience goes. If the Yamaha was using a cone mid, crossing under 200Hz, you could mix a pro bass amp and avoid some costs and have robust bass grip. Alas, it crosses high enough to give away tonal changes... As for a Be wide range, it would not work, since it would include its main ringing mode smack centre where the ear perceives the most. Look for Feastrex field coil.
Attachments
Does anyone know how to remove the grill's off the Mid-Range & Woofer carefully, do you remove the rubber ring first or just slowly pull the grill mesh out. I just stipped the paint off my cabinets & underneath is the most beautiful timber very pale yellow. I know it's just ply veneer but i think i'll be estapoling it & keep the natural timber look, it will look awesome when finished. Does anyone know if you can get the black YAMAHA NS-1000 stickers for the front face?
Audiojoy while i'm waiting for my tweeters from QUAD in Germany i want to replace the inner cabling with the Silver Audio Note Cable that you recommended, seeing you have done this & the crossovers before could you help me with some steps or more comprehensive details on what excactly i'll need for the crossover, which caps just the Mid-Range & Woofer ones or the tweeters aswell? How much cable internally, also do Audionote do good external speaker cable? When i looked on Ebay for the Ukraine Caps i have to buy 50 of them & i only need 2.
I would really appreciate your help as i trust your opinion & would like to get mine sounding as close to yours as possible.
I'm running a CA-2010 through them at the moment that also has Class A mode. Would i need to get a Power Amp like the p2500 that you got & keep the 2010 as a Pre-Amp? Also need to get a CD Player some people say the new SACD players like the new Pioneer PD-D6 which got player of the year are great or old Marantz & Denon? What do you think? Also do i get a Yamaha B1 or B2 with C1 Pre or get a Atmo-Sphere Tube Amp like what you've got.
Audiojoy while i'm waiting for my tweeters from QUAD in Germany i want to replace the inner cabling with the Silver Audio Note Cable that you recommended, seeing you have done this & the crossovers before could you help me with some steps or more comprehensive details on what excactly i'll need for the crossover, which caps just the Mid-Range & Woofer ones or the tweeters aswell? How much cable internally, also do Audionote do good external speaker cable? When i looked on Ebay for the Ukraine Caps i have to buy 50 of them & i only need 2.
I would really appreciate your help as i trust your opinion & would like to get mine sounding as close to yours as possible.
I'm running a CA-2010 through them at the moment that also has Class A mode. Would i need to get a Power Amp like the p2500 that you got & keep the 2010 as a Pre-Amp? Also need to get a CD Player some people say the new SACD players like the new Pioneer PD-D6 which got player of the year are great or old Marantz & Denon? What do you think? Also do i get a Yamaha B1 or B2 with C1 Pre or get a Atmo-Sphere Tube Amp like what you've got.
Hi hugomac
I am flattered that you would want to emulate my set up.
Audio note do not differentiate in design between internal and external speaker cables. They use the same for both.You need to get the silver versions. As they are expensive I would only use them from the crossover to the speaker then from the speaker inputs to the cones. VDH hybrids are also very good for the beryllium tweeters within the speakers they add tonal warmth which is much needed when the insulation is removed from behind the bass unit.
For the power amp to the crossovers get VALABS speaker cables from EBAY - better in some ways than the audionote and cost very little indeed.Unfortunately i found they did not work after the crossover and are too inflexible to use within the speakers themselves.
Yes I changed every cap on the crossover, and found that each and every one had a positive effect on the sound.
From my findings I would opt for a valve amp every time.The Atma-spheres are so far the best I have had, but the M60 should be the minimum used in terms of power.
I only used the Yam P2500 on the dipole subwoofers which i built to augment the lower end of the Yams and my god they really did bring out powerful and accurate lower end grunt. However going active or biamping is something I have not as yet tried and might indeed be very beneficial for the bass driver within the Yams perhaps using the P2500. My fear is that the bass driver contributes a lot to the midrange magic of the speakers and needs quality watts as opposed to quantity. But interesting will probably try this next.
To my ears the best DAC is the Valab DAc also on ebay and costing less than 120 quid! I sold my audionote 4.1x DAC(£4000) and pink triangle da capo because it was so much better! For transport I have had many but the old pioneer stable platters are still the most 'analogue' and natural sounding.......the PD65/75/s-06 in particular. For preamp i would again always opt for valve with the Yams. Again i have used the audio note m5 signature and jadis jps2 but the Valab Pre still had a more accurate rendition of the performance despite costing 5x less than either of the other amps.
SALAS could you please let us know what your current favourite set up of equipment is??
I am flattered that you would want to emulate my set up.
Audio note do not differentiate in design between internal and external speaker cables. They use the same for both.You need to get the silver versions. As they are expensive I would only use them from the crossover to the speaker then from the speaker inputs to the cones. VDH hybrids are also very good for the beryllium tweeters within the speakers they add tonal warmth which is much needed when the insulation is removed from behind the bass unit.
For the power amp to the crossovers get VALABS speaker cables from EBAY - better in some ways than the audionote and cost very little indeed.Unfortunately i found they did not work after the crossover and are too inflexible to use within the speakers themselves.
Yes I changed every cap on the crossover, and found that each and every one had a positive effect on the sound.
From my findings I would opt for a valve amp every time.The Atma-spheres are so far the best I have had, but the M60 should be the minimum used in terms of power.
I only used the Yam P2500 on the dipole subwoofers which i built to augment the lower end of the Yams and my god they really did bring out powerful and accurate lower end grunt. However going active or biamping is something I have not as yet tried and might indeed be very beneficial for the bass driver within the Yams perhaps using the P2500. My fear is that the bass driver contributes a lot to the midrange magic of the speakers and needs quality watts as opposed to quantity. But interesting will probably try this next.
To my ears the best DAC is the Valab DAc also on ebay and costing less than 120 quid! I sold my audionote 4.1x DAC(£4000) and pink triangle da capo because it was so much better! For transport I have had many but the old pioneer stable platters are still the most 'analogue' and natural sounding.......the PD65/75/s-06 in particular. For preamp i would again always opt for valve with the Yams. Again i have used the audio note m5 signature and jadis jps2 but the Valab Pre still had a more accurate rendition of the performance despite costing 5x less than either of the other amps.
SALAS could you please let us know what your current favourite set up of equipment is??
Salas how intriguing I seem to be following a path that you have already trodden. please save me the effort and tell me what your present speaker set up is indeed your entire favourite set up.
My present speaker (pictured) is a mundane all rounder. Just an attempt on balancing practicality, logical expenditure, and quality wisely. It has small footprint but achieves 95dB sens without horns. It was difficult to tune because it marries car stereo woofers with pro mid bass, and Hi-Fi tweeter. Has a rather simple, but scientifically designed crossover, and no filter on the naturally drooping elliptical woofers. It is LF closed box and resistive back slit vent mid bass. Nothing to aspire to or a statement. I don't have the space, money and power for such. Could not sadly make better things for edge diffraction given my woodworking skills & tools limitations. But it sounds balanced, informative and clear as a bell.
I have made many things, and I prefer closed box up to 200Hz, open baffle with felt on the back for wide mid, high range choice depends on the system requirements. I like domes and ribbons too. I also like coaxials and the new Hiraga Speaker uses a very nice Altec reissue. Maybe close to your needs. Google for the Hiraga. If you want to try something more usual as a format, or a kit, build the Elsinor IMO. If you have not seen it, just enter the name in the DIY Audio search section.
I have made many things, and I prefer closed box up to 200Hz, open baffle with felt on the back for wide mid, high range choice depends on the system requirements. I like domes and ribbons too. I also like coaxials and the new Hiraga Speaker uses a very nice Altec reissue. Maybe close to your needs. Google for the Hiraga. If you want to try something more usual as a format, or a kit, build the Elsinor IMO. If you have not seen it, just enter the name in the DIY Audio search section.
Attachments
audiojoy said:
Sorry, I forgot to inform you about the rest of my set.
I use a restored Walker CJ 58 with rewired Mission 774 arm and a Denon DL-160. That feeds my Salas NJFET Riaa, goes to Salas 6V6 pre, and finally to Salas KT88 triode 2X20W. All that stuff is posted in our forum. If you search you will see all details for making them. For CD, I use a Kiss 1000 DVD for transport, coaxial connection to a very basically upgraded Benchmark DAC-1. Speaker wire is Mogami coaxial stage monitor type. As for ready made equipment that I listened and liked, for preamps Wavac PR-T1, Boulder 2010, main amps Jadis JA-500, FM Acoustics FM 611X, CDP, Metronome Kalista with its battery PSU and Jadis JS1 MKiii DAC. Speakers, KEF Muon, Avalon ISIS.
Audiojoy
So for the crossover i require 1x 47uF Ducati Energi Cap for the Woofer, 1x 3.5uF PETP Cap for the Mid-Range & 1x 2.7uF PETP Cap for the Tweeters. Audionote AN-SPx 27 Strand for the internal cabling (What Lenth & How Much?). Not Audionote Copper or Solens Caps.
Could you also send me some Hi-Res photos of the crossovers, i would prefer to modify mine like Kstlfido & leaving it similar to the original & just replacing the Caps.
Your Thoughts?
So for the crossover i require 1x 47uF Ducati Energi Cap for the Woofer, 1x 3.5uF PETP Cap for the Mid-Range & 1x 2.7uF PETP Cap for the Tweeters. Audionote AN-SPx 27 Strand for the internal cabling (What Lenth & How Much?). Not Audionote Copper or Solens Caps.
Could you also send me some Hi-Res photos of the crossovers, i would prefer to modify mine like Kstlfido & leaving it similar to the original & just replacing the Caps.
Your Thoughts?
Dear Hugomac
I am a NS1000M user from Sydney.
Unfortunately, cannot email you due to my account limitation.
I have tried different power amp with NS1000M
1. Yamaha CA2010
2. Quad 405 (with the popular mod)
3. Yamaha MX-1
4. Nelson Audio Tube amp EL34 mono blocks (marantz 9 liked circuit)
5. audio-gd.com C-1 power amp
I don't like the sound of Quad 405 with NS1000M, sold it.
CA2010 is a very good integrated, but power is limited to drive the NS1000M to reveal its potential.
Tube amp with NS1000M is great for vocal, jazz and light classical, however I feel solid state is better for my taste, more dynamic, authority and quicker response. It is not cheap to buy. Buying 8 matched EL34 (I am using Ei 6CA7) is costly.
For a limited budget (<A$2500), I would strongly recommend Yamaha MX-1 with a good preamp. It usually go for $1000-$1300 on ebay.com.au. It is a great match. Very power amp, musically, but not fatigue. Highly recommend.
I am now using a chinese made power amp (C-1and its preamp C-3) imported from oversea. I bought it when A$$ was strong, but still cost me quite a lot as shipping cost was not cheap (more than 50Kg with DHL).
C-1, which cost at least three times more than a second hand Yamaha MX-1 is no doubt better. It is hard to measure by how much it is better to justify your money spent. This hobby is sometime irrational and addictive. But I will not go back to MX-1 nor the tube amp now.
Forget about B1, or B2 (vfet amp). Reviews, forums say they are great, I believe they are but it is nearly impossible to source one in Australia. I always keep an eye to find one local. I know how good a vfet amp can be, as I have a Sony TA4650.
The reason your twister blown may be caused by your power amp. Don't use it again, or use at your own risk.
I am also very keen to change the capacitor in the crossover, the information from this thread is great. Except some of the earlier threads arguing on some cable things. In my system, I can definitely hear a difference by using different power cable, digital cable, IC, speaker cable, power board etc. Personally, I would say our perception of sound cannot be fully explained by the laws of physics we know.
Audiojoy, you have started an excellent thread, thanks for your shares.
I am a NS1000M user from Sydney.
Unfortunately, cannot email you due to my account limitation.
I have tried different power amp with NS1000M
1. Yamaha CA2010
2. Quad 405 (with the popular mod)
3. Yamaha MX-1
4. Nelson Audio Tube amp EL34 mono blocks (marantz 9 liked circuit)
5. audio-gd.com C-1 power amp
I don't like the sound of Quad 405 with NS1000M, sold it.
CA2010 is a very good integrated, but power is limited to drive the NS1000M to reveal its potential.
Tube amp with NS1000M is great for vocal, jazz and light classical, however I feel solid state is better for my taste, more dynamic, authority and quicker response. It is not cheap to buy. Buying 8 matched EL34 (I am using Ei 6CA7) is costly.
For a limited budget (<A$2500), I would strongly recommend Yamaha MX-1 with a good preamp. It usually go for $1000-$1300 on ebay.com.au. It is a great match. Very power amp, musically, but not fatigue. Highly recommend.
I am now using a chinese made power amp (C-1and its preamp C-3) imported from oversea. I bought it when A$$ was strong, but still cost me quite a lot as shipping cost was not cheap (more than 50Kg with DHL).
C-1, which cost at least three times more than a second hand Yamaha MX-1 is no doubt better. It is hard to measure by how much it is better to justify your money spent. This hobby is sometime irrational and addictive. But I will not go back to MX-1 nor the tube amp now.
Forget about B1, or B2 (vfet amp). Reviews, forums say they are great, I believe they are but it is nearly impossible to source one in Australia. I always keep an eye to find one local. I know how good a vfet amp can be, as I have a Sony TA4650.
The reason your twister blown may be caused by your power amp. Don't use it again, or use at your own risk.
I am also very keen to change the capacitor in the crossover, the information from this thread is great. Except some of the earlier threads arguing on some cable things. In my system, I can definitely hear a difference by using different power cable, digital cable, IC, speaker cable, power board etc. Personally, I would say our perception of sound cannot be fully explained by the laws of physics we know.
Audiojoy, you have started an excellent thread, thanks for your shares.
Thanks for the info. How does the CA-2010 not reach there potential what happens over 100wpc? If i got a MX1 Power Amp or similar would the CA-2010 be a good Pre Amp? Are the Tube Amp's to gutless? I'm trying to buy the Audionote cable online so i'll keep you posted once i replace them & the Caps.
Hugomac (or anyone)-
I have some hi res xover pics. Send me your pm and I can send them over.
-Kent
I have some hi res xover pics. Send me your pm and I can send them over.
-Kent