MORKSBEANBAG
PLEASE PLEASE TELL US MORE
THis topic is all about Tweaking the NS1000 crossover
Lets get back on track, MY THREAD AFTERALL.
I would love to hear what sound differences you have encountered especially regarding the substitution of the mills resistors for the volume inductors. What values did you use for mid and treble???
What components did you change and to what???
PLEASE PLEASE TELL US MORE
THis topic is all about Tweaking the NS1000 crossover
Lets get back on track, MY THREAD AFTERALL.
I would love to hear what sound differences you have encountered especially regarding the substitution of the mills resistors for the volume inductors. What values did you use for mid and treble???
What components did you change and to what???
here is my one
I have used different cables for different frequency ranges in a bid to get the most out of each driver.
found that the original iron core inductors were better than air cored ones (only tried one brand), so i left them.
Did not remove the volume control for the mid and treble as i felt fine tuning for the room was more useful - does it sound better when removed from the pathway??
I have used different cables for different frequency ranges in a bid to get the most out of each driver.
found that the original iron core inductors were better than air cored ones (only tried one brand), so i left them.
Did not remove the volume control for the mid and treble as i felt fine tuning for the room was more useful - does it sound better when removed from the pathway??
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I don't know for the NS1000 in particular, especially with the synergistic development you have been through, but in general every old speaker that I have tweaked and substituted the power pots for fixed resistors got significantly more transparent. But you will have to listen well for optimum settings with the pots and then measure the resistance to be substituted by lifting the pots from the circuit so to be sure.
for all those who have been following this thread from the start just have a look at the top right hand corner of my photo where there is a piece of nordost copper coil!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Salas for the advice on measuring up the resistance first- a gentleman as always
Thanks Salas for the advice on measuring up the resistance first- a gentleman as always
Hi Audiojoy,
I replaced all components apart from the 5mH inductor for the woofer. I had wilmslow audio custom wind me some air cored inductors for the mid and tweeter. Very fair pricing too.
I used Wilmslow supersound where I could as I've used them before and have been very pleased. For the bass section I used SCR 39uF, 51uF and 4uF supersound making the 94uF as in the original. Also used supersound 20uF+1uF and 3.3uF for the midrange and a single 2.7uF claritycap for the tweeter. I used two 33R 12w Mills resistors per crossover to replace the L-pads (which inside use gold plated copper windings interestingly enough). If i remember the center point of the L-pad was about 30-32R raising to just over 40R at the plus 3dB point, so my own should be just a tad over 0dB.
I'll attached a pic of my first attempt at modding the Yamaha's, and yes there was a large improvement from the first version to the second. I'm very pleased indeed with them as they are now.
I replaced all components apart from the 5mH inductor for the woofer. I had wilmslow audio custom wind me some air cored inductors for the mid and tweeter. Very fair pricing too.
I used Wilmslow supersound where I could as I've used them before and have been very pleased. For the bass section I used SCR 39uF, 51uF and 4uF supersound making the 94uF as in the original. Also used supersound 20uF+1uF and 3.3uF for the midrange and a single 2.7uF claritycap for the tweeter. I used two 33R 12w Mills resistors per crossover to replace the L-pads (which inside use gold plated copper windings interestingly enough). If i remember the center point of the L-pad was about 30-32R raising to just over 40R at the plus 3dB point, so my own should be just a tad over 0dB.
I'll attached a pic of my first attempt at modding the Yamaha's, and yes there was a large improvement from the first version to the second. I'm very pleased indeed with them as they are now.
Attachments
All wiring is QED silver. I made a huge bodge recently, bought some B&W CDM 1NT speakers in order to replace the NS-1000M's, as I have the CDM CNT center.
Stupid. The B&W's aren't a patch on the 1000's. Not even close.
Stupid. The B&W's aren't a patch on the 1000's. Not even close.
morksbeanbag said:
Lovely stands!
I would love to commission someone to make similar stands for a pair of NS-2000s! BTW, what kind of wood is that?
To the OP: Most interesting thread! I'm just now planning a caps update for my NS-2000. Not sure I dare to alter anything else though!
Regards
morksbeanbag said:
I've been looking out for something suitable, without any success. Perhaps I should do the inevitable, too!
Patrik Floding said:
I agree!
The wood is a hardwood called Meranti. Available from Arnold Lavers here in the UK, I initally was quoted £150, then after scowling and saying "are you quite sure?", they went down to £100. Then when the manager came he let me have it all for £50. 🙂
Lovely wood to work with, use fine saw blades. I didn't use any finish at all and they stool look lovely.
To hold them together I used giant coach bolts and wood glue, they are solid as a rock.
Do I spy that you have NS-2000's and are in the UK?? I'd love to see some pics of those.
What stands do you use at the moment?
I see alot of people in the east are using TAOC stands for the large Yamaha's. Such as the TAOC 400DH. They look perfectly suited to the NS-1000M and 2000 speakers.
Lovely wood to work with, use fine saw blades. I didn't use any finish at all and they stool look lovely.
To hold them together I used giant coach bolts and wood glue, they are solid as a rock.
Do I spy that you have NS-2000's and are in the UK?? I'd love to see some pics of those.
What stands do you use at the moment?
I see alot of people in the east are using TAOC stands for the large Yamaha's. Such as the TAOC 400DH. They look perfectly suited to the NS-1000M and 2000 speakers.
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morksbeanbag said:
Yes, I'm the extremely happy and fortunate owner of a pair of NS-2000s. Only problem is always worrying about them breaking.. I might give up on this hobby forever if they do..
They look like any other NS-2000, but I'll post some pics once I get the mess in the living room sorted! 😉 (Actually, they don't look very good at the moment due to a temporary grille protecting the woofer from 3-year old fingers. I think I have some older photos before the grilles.)
The TAOC's look about the right size for the NS-2000s. Can the labels be removed? (Seem to be all over the place). I plan to incorporate a space for a compact amplifier inside the stand as well.
Thanks for the info on your lovely stands!
P.S: My current "stands" are IKEA "LACK" in birch, with the legs shortened to about 20cm. (Before IKEA ruined this cheap and useful table)
Patrick you lucky ........
NS2000. I belive these and the NS1000 speakers are still made but becasue they are not ec certified the Japanese will not export them. A bit worrying if the berryllium has anything to do with this!!
Change the caps to non electrolytics, you will never regret it, it makes such a significant difference.
NS2000. I belive these and the NS1000 speakers are still made but becasue they are not ec certified the Japanese will not export them. A bit worrying if the berryllium has anything to do with this!!
Change the caps to non electrolytics, you will never regret it, it makes such a significant difference.
The drivers for the NS-1000 series do indeed seem to be still being made as many people have reported them being on 'back order' from Japan.
NS-2000's, lucky git. 😀 If you ever want to sell them, I'll be very interested. Then again I own a pair of NS-1000M and the extremely rare C-2x pre and B-2x power amp which are supposed to be second only to the 10000 series, I got the entire lot including the NS-1000M's for £200 from a guy who didn't have a clue what he was selling.
What are the dimensions of the NS-2000 diaphragm's, with care and patience they may well be interchangeable with the 1000 diaphragms.
NS-2000's, lucky git. 😀 If you ever want to sell them, I'll be very interested. Then again I own a pair of NS-1000M and the extremely rare C-2x pre and B-2x power amp which are supposed to be second only to the 10000 series, I got the entire lot including the NS-1000M's for £200 from a guy who didn't have a clue what he was selling.
What are the dimensions of the NS-2000 diaphragm's, with care and patience they may well be interchangeable with the 1000 diaphragms.
morksbeanbag said:The drivers for the NS-1000 series do indeed seem to be still being made as many people have reported them being on 'back order' from Japan.
NS-2000's, lucky git. 😀 If you ever want to sell them, I'll be very interested. Then again I own a pair of NS-1000M and the extremely rare C-2x pre and B-2x power amp which are supposed to be second only to the 10000 series, I got the entire lot including the NS-1000M's for £200 from a guy who didn't have a clue what he was selling.
What are the dimensions of the NS-2000 diaphragm's, with care and patience they may well be interchangeable with the 1000 diaphragms.
Now, I wonder who is the lucky git!
Unfortunately it is the actual domes of the Be drivers that they altered (and possibly more, but certainly that). They are lighter (thinner) and of higher surface precision than the NS-1000 domes. Different size too, at least for the treble unit (larger).
Some guy in the US had a chance to buy a single boxed (NOS?) NS-2000 at a flea market, and didn't do it.. 😱 Probably dirt cheap too. I'd snapp it up for quite a lot of money, to have one of each drivers as a backup!
Of course, the woofer is unique too.. (Reminds me, I need to rotate all drivers to decrese the risk of the magnets shifting due to gravity..) I have a couple woofers for another Be Yamaha speaker which has seized due to this happening.)
audiojoy said:
I will look into it, but I believe the caps are huge already.. Anyway, new caps, whatever their kind, might help. They must be 20 years plus by now..
The caps in your NS-2000 are not infact electrolytic as they are in the NS-1000/1000M/1000X.
They are infact giant self healing metallized paper capacitors made by Nichicon and are already of very high quality and won't have deteriorated over time in the way electrolytics and tantalums do. The only part I would think of changing in the NS-2000 crossover would be the single grey (I bet it's 2.7uF) tweeter capacitor for the best you can afford. I used clarity caps in my own, though Mundorf Silver/Gold are supposedly superb (£60 each was too much for me).
What other Yamaha speakers do you have?
They are infact giant self healing metallized paper capacitors made by Nichicon and are already of very high quality and won't have deteriorated over time in the way electrolytics and tantalums do. The only part I would think of changing in the NS-2000 crossover would be the single grey (I bet it's 2.7uF) tweeter capacitor for the best you can afford. I used clarity caps in my own, though Mundorf Silver/Gold are supposedly superb (£60 each was too much for me).
What other Yamaha speakers do you have?
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morksbeanbag said:
Thanks for that very usefult information!
The other ones are NS-890 (had to check in the garage what number), which are 4-way, with two small Be, one mid paper, and a paper woofer (12 inch I think). I was thinking of perhaps using the Be drives to create surround speakers that match the NS-2000. Another long-term project. I keep the drives indoors.
Don't split them up to make a DIY speaker. If I were you I'd use them as rear speakers. If you don't want to I'll buy them off you and use them as rears in my own setup. 😉
For stands for your NS-2000's, the best are the Yamaha originals called the SPS-2000. They come round on Yahoo Japan auctions every so often. There are companies in Japan that will bid for you, do all the translation etc and send them to you for a fee.
For stands for your NS-2000's, the best are the Yamaha originals called the SPS-2000. They come round on Yahoo Japan auctions every so often. There are companies in Japan that will bid for you, do all the translation etc and send them to you for a fee.
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morksbeanbag said:
If that's NS-890 on the photo, I think mine look nothing like as fancy as that!
I would like to hear them properly, so might install new woofers. Hopefully NS-1000 ones are a good match -although Yamaha was very vague about this. I did contemplate throwing the cabinets away at one stage... The custom surround idea came up since my living room is way too small for large speakers as rear speakers. Of course, if I keep the cabinets I can always revert back to that..
I bought the NS-890 under the illusion that they needed refoaming.. The setback of the seized drives directly led to the NS-2000 purchase.
I'll look into the stand thing. Googled this:
"Yamaha sps-2000 speaker stand for yamaha NSX-10000 cost 1700usd"
BTW, any such japanese company you would like to recommend?