No, I didn't. As no recent PC offers RS232 ports anymore and I absolutely don't get what Yamaha says regarding the link, I think it is completely waaay over my capabilities. Maybe it is better to leave the unit to a repair shop.
Best regards!
Best regards!
I'm still voting for a PRV fault ie, leaky rail cap or failed regulator both easily fixable, yeah takes some legwork to track down. Post #34?
No, I didn't. As no recent PC offers RS232 ports anymore and I absolutely don't get what Yamaha says regarding the link, I think it is completely waaay over my capabilities. Maybe it is better to leave the unit to a repair shop.
Best regards!
RS232 to usb leads do exist. If you want to down load you could approach an agent who deals with computer software issues or find/join a website for computer enthusiasts. There could well be members on diyaudio you could look to for advice if the problem is not due to a hardware issue.
there are simply rs232/usb converters on amazon for cheap.
https://www.amazon.fr/CableCreation...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
https://www.amazon.fr/CableCreation...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Some protection circuits take an ac feed from the power transformer in the first stage of activating the relay this scheme is to clear the voltage energising the relay the instant when the power is switched off. This is to obviate noise reaching the speakers during this operation. Somewhere in the feed a transisto base is fed through a diode resistor in combination with a capacitor to ground. The diode pulse ac to dc needs to be on the cusp of maintaining the transistor base and voltage of the voltage charge in the capacitor sufficient to remain charged. If this capacitor is leaky or the voltage is too low the transistor will not close the relay contacts in operation. The capacitor could charge at switch on due to a peak surge in current pushing the voltage momentarily above the cusp. I suggest checking the series resistor value and the capacitor for leakage at power up if any of these may be part of your circuit.I'm still voting for a PRV fault ie, leaky rail cap or failed regulator both easily fixable, yeah takes some legwork to track down. Post #34?
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Was this measurement performed in the standby state or after pressing the p-on. Wouldn't get too excited if it was in STBY.PRV, at it's pin 85. The normal voltage should be 0.8 to 1.6 V. I measured 0.6 V
As said, I did all measurements in the Protection Cancel Mode (pressing the Audio Mute button for more than three seconds when turning the unit on and with the Balance control fully CCW, according to the SM, page 29). At standby the main transformer isn't powered at all and measurements are impossible.
Best regards!
Best regards!
For what it is worth there is a discussion about difficulties with protection mode on Steve Hoffman's Music Forum see for instance https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/yamaha-a-s3000-arrived.639305/page-17
While there some procedures to clear the protection mode these have not resolved the problems for every owner. There are some caveats like providing adequate ventilation above the amplifier so it doesn't heat up and there is a standby switch mode at the rear of the case which comment was not seen relevant through lack of mention in the restoration process. Some of the comments suggest a need for patience when using the mute button and to watch for lights to display.
I don't see there is anything to lose to see if you have more luck than others who have struck this protection mode problem.
While there some procedures to clear the protection mode these have not resolved the problems for every owner. There are some caveats like providing adequate ventilation above the amplifier so it doesn't heat up and there is a standby switch mode at the rear of the case which comment was not seen relevant through lack of mention in the restoration process. Some of the comments suggest a need for patience when using the mute button and to watch for lights to display.
I don't see there is anything to lose to see if you have more luck than others who have struck this protection mode problem.
This is C14, the RFI capacitor across the inrush current limiter relay contacts. What a big surprise this would be. Anyway, to get access to the soldering side of Function 1 board I'll have to disassemble the unit quite more than I had done yet 😳...
Best regards!
Best regards!
If it's yours, honestly, the Dremel is your friend.to get access to the soldering side of Function 1 board I'll have to disassemble the unit quite more than I had done yet 😳...
you open a window properly below and then you close as properly and basta.
Well, that would mean to dremel through three other boards that are sandwiched with it ;-)!
The photo above shows what you see after the bottom plate is removed. These components are hanging upside down. Above Function 1 is the Function 2 board, followed by Input 1, then Input 2, which is the uppermost and wrapped in some shielding.
The unit's mechanical construction is nearly as tricky as it's electronic one.
Best regards
The photo above shows what you see after the bottom plate is removed. These components are hanging upside down. Above Function 1 is the Function 2 board, followed by Input 1, then Input 2, which is the uppermost and wrapped in some shielding.
The unit's mechanical construction is nearly as tricky as it's electronic one.
Best regards
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🙁🤐Well, that would mean to dremel through three other boards that are sandwiched wuth it ;-)!
If you are nervous about further disassembly give yourself a break and mull things over for a few days.
Ok, so..... pull connector CB305 then measure PRV, if PRV "normalizes" then problem is downstream of CB305. Repeat for CB306?As said, I did all measurements in the Protection Cancel Mode
Fortunately this pic doesn't show the many dozens (literally!!) of small screws that hold all the pieces together ;-)!
I counted two dozens alone for the bottom panel.
Best regards!
I counted two dozens alone for the bottom panel.
Best regards!
I saw that yes, this amp was built like a Mclaren LMP1.
I only see two paths emerging.
either you disassemble it (long and tedious)
either you entrust it to a yamaha station (fast and expensive)
Honestly, I don't believe for a minute that there is a capacitor problem in this amp.
the choice of components has nothing to do with the "common" range from Yamaha.
They really are two different worlds.
We cannot compare a Mercedes Class-A 160 and an SLR AMG.
I only see two paths emerging.
either you disassemble it (long and tedious)
either you entrust it to a yamaha station (fast and expensive)
Honestly, I don't believe for a minute that there is a capacitor problem in this amp.
the choice of components has nothing to do with the "common" range from Yamaha.
They really are two different worlds.
We cannot compare a Mercedes Class-A 160 and an SLR AMG.
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