Ok thanks for reminding me. It’s been a while.
Are you using TL072 opamp? I think a FET input one is needed here to keep DC currents on the inputs low to reduce DC offset on the opamp.
Are you using TL072 opamp? I think a FET input one is needed here to keep DC currents on the inputs low to reduce DC offset on the opamp.
I'am using the TL071BCP as in the boom at post #186... Sry. for my not native English laungauge, I'am Danish 🙂Ok thanks for reminding me. It’s been a while.
Are you using TL072 opamp? I think a FET input one is needed here to keep DC currents on the inputs low to reduce DC offset on the opamp.
Jesper.
Thanks...
Still not sure if C17 must be jumped or not.
Jesper.
Ups. please don't forget I am running only -24/+24 right now
Still not sure if C17 must be jumped or not.
Jesper.
Ups. please don't forget I am running only -24/+24 right now
That's nice.I’ll wait for Jhofland to answer these questions.
Anyway I will wait until I have the right transformer on hand, giving 11-12 more vdc's than the 24 I have now.
Meantime I will dig into some reading regarding DC servo with the TL071BCP.
Btw. i have both capacitors for C17 & C2 in my stock.
Jesper.
Hi Jesper,
Jhofland replied to me and I’ll post his response here. Do you have C2 bypassed with a jumper?
Jhofland replied to me and I’ll post his response here. Do you have C2 bypassed with a jumper?
I assume that R3 is tied to ground by substituting a short across C2. Other than that, I'd measure the output of the servo op amp, and a careful measurement of the DC voltage at the + and - inputs of the 7493. They both ought to be about the same and darned close to zero volts. I would be very careful measuring these nodes though since stray signals will be amplified. In other words, measure these nodes as a last resort.
That's nice. -Glad you care to help XRK!Hi Jesper,
Jhofland replied to me and I’ll post his response here. Do you have C2 bypassed with a jumper?
I also did look at the schematic, and checked that it was the correct TL071 i had.
Regarding if C2 & C17 both or only one of them have to be jumped, it's doesent really matter, as long as one of them is the R3 is connected to GND.
I have C2 shorted, and C17 i did cut the short, before I looked at the schematic 😉
Well, output on TL071 (pin6) = 0.455vdc
VCC- to GND = -15.13vdc
VCC+ to GND = +15.13vdc
IN+ to GND = 0.2vdc
IN- to GND = 0.2vdc
Offset today, with input shorted = 103mVdc
Output from PSU = +23.4 / -23.4
Jesper...
Do you think you have a genuine TDA7293?
Other places to look for DC offset are small solder bridges or leftover flux making contact between pins that are very close together. I recently fired up a 40W class A amp based and one channel had 25v offset while the other was fine. Looking carefully at the solder joints I noticed a small bridge - almost inperceptible on the input stage. Reflowed the joint and used some wick to clean up fixed the issue.
Other places to look for DC offset are small solder bridges or leftover flux making contact between pins that are very close together. I recently fired up a 40W class A amp based and one channel had 25v offset while the other was fine. Looking carefully at the solder joints I noticed a small bridge - almost inperceptible on the input stage. Reflowed the joint and used some wick to clean up fixed the issue.
Hi...Do you think you have a genuine TDA7293?
Other places to look for DC offset are small solder bridges or leftover flux making contact between pins that are very close together. I recently fired up a 40W class A amp based and one channel had 25v offset while the other was fine. Looking carefully at the solder joints I noticed a small bridge - almost inperceptible on the input stage. Reflowed the joint and used some wick to clean up fixed the issue.
I bought them 7293 from Mouser, so i sure think they are real, no fakes. TDA7293, but offcause i can never be 100% sure.
I also think they are real, when playing music without any problems on my shop, but again you could be right ?
I must admit 🙄 that i did not clean the PCB with iso. alcohol as i allway's do, I will do, and also carefully look through the PCB in my microscope.
I'll be back within the weekend.
😎
Jesper.
The dc at the inputs is kind of high at 200mV.
Well, output on TL071 (pin6) = 0.455vdc
VCC- to GND = -15.13vdc
VCC+ to GND = +15.13vdc
IN+ to GND = 0.2vdc
IN- to GND = 0.2vdc
Well... having a hard time realising this is actually true 🙂
Cleaning and removing flux etc... actually lowered the offset to 18mV channel L and 6mV channel R, and when reducing the voltage on the variac i see a small rising in the offset, so i should really wait until i have the right trafo now... Please stop Jesper now 😵
All of them are low now, the IN+ / IN- are within 20mV and the output (pin 6) around 130mV now!
I do think everything is as it should be.
I will rapport back when i have +/-37vdc rails ready.
Jesper.
Cleaning and removing flux etc... actually lowered the offset to 18mV channel L and 6mV channel R, and when reducing the voltage on the variac i see a small rising in the offset, so i should really wait until i have the right trafo now... Please stop Jesper now 😵
Well, output on TL071 (pin6) = 0.455vdc
IN+ to GND = 0.2vdc
IN- to GND = 0.2vdc
All of them are low now, the IN+ / IN- are within 20mV and the output (pin 6) around 130mV now!
I do think everything is as it should be.
I will rapport back when i have +/-37vdc rails ready.
Jesper.
Glad I could help. Are tidy and neat solder joints an extension of a tidy and neat bench top. 🙂
My bench is a mess but my solder joints are neater, thank goodness. That last solder bridge was not mine but a friend who helped assemble the amp for me.
Toothbrush and mineral spirits paint thinner first (that dissolves rosin flux better), then isopropyl alcohol and toothbrush. Some people put the board at this point under running warm water and use dish detergent and brush for final step then air dry.
Here is latest photo of my bench while debugging that solder bridge. Fixed it - DC offset went from 25V to 1mV. Rails are +/-30v. Class A with 1.7A bias current flowing. It’s a warm amp.
I have a whole thread about what’s on my bench and how messy it is. Also, others post their bench photos there too.
My bench is a mess but my solder joints are neater, thank goodness. That last solder bridge was not mine but a friend who helped assemble the amp for me.
Toothbrush and mineral spirits paint thinner first (that dissolves rosin flux better), then isopropyl alcohol and toothbrush. Some people put the board at this point under running warm water and use dish detergent and brush for final step then air dry.
Here is latest photo of my bench while debugging that solder bridge. Fixed it - DC offset went from 25V to 1mV. Rails are +/-30v. Class A with 1.7A bias current flowing. It’s a warm amp.
I have a whole thread about what’s on my bench and how messy it is. Also, others post their bench photos there too.
Hi!
I have a possibly silly question.
I have seen that the commonly used values in the R1/R3 position are 20-22k/680-750R. But I came across a connection where the creator used values of 68k/2k or 3.9k in the R1/R3 position. Can higher than normal resistance values cause problems? Also, what parameters change in this setting of the TDA7294? Unfortunately, I don't know how to use simulators (LTSpice, TINA).
Thanks for the help! D'
I have a possibly silly question.
I have seen that the commonly used values in the R1/R3 position are 20-22k/680-750R. But I came across a connection where the creator used values of 68k/2k or 3.9k in the R1/R3 position. Can higher than normal resistance values cause problems? Also, what parameters change in this setting of the TDA7294? Unfortunately, I don't know how to use simulators (LTSpice, TINA).
Thanks for the help! D'
The TDA7293 is spec'ed for a typical input bias current of 0.3 microamps, 1 microamp max. That current goes through the parallel equivalent of the input resistors and feedback resistors and will cause an offset.. The higher the values, the larger the offset.
This is the reason why R1 and R2 need to be of the same value for minimizing offset.The TDA7293 is spec'ed for a typical input bias current of 0.3 microamps, 1 microamp max. That current goes through the parallel equivalent of the input resistors and feedback resistors and will cause an offset.. The higher the values, the larger the offset.
Best regards!
Then, what is the purpose of the servo?This is the reason why R1 and R2 need to be of the same value for minimizing offset.
Remember?
I don't think the servo would care very much if R1 and R2 were not equal. If so then it's not a very good servo.
What I wanted to say, basic design (equal R1 and R2) places the offset in the proximity of zero, then the purpose of the servo is there to push the offset even closer to the zero.
Initially, have been puzzled with the poor performance of the servo but by replacing the R15 with that of 10K, as suggested here, did the magic. The servo performs well now.
Though, I have a couple of problems to solve, despite using quality components and caring assembly. I still have slight HF boost and still measure slightly increased THD values. I hope to find proper medicine for this somewhere in this thread.
Thanks guys for the great thread and especially the design team for supplying us with great amplifier.
Initially, have been puzzled with the poor performance of the servo but by replacing the R15 with that of 10K, as suggested here, did the magic. The servo performs well now.
Though, I have a couple of problems to solve, despite using quality components and caring assembly. I still have slight HF boost and still measure slightly increased THD values. I hope to find proper medicine for this somewhere in this thread.
Thanks guys for the great thread and especially the design team for supplying us with great amplifier.
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