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WTB: F4 PCB boards

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#741
Blitz said:
Good hint...I am already usng the silmics...you think they are more transparent than the BGs ? ? then I will skip the idea with the black gates...I thought the BG could be another upgrade and I was just curious what could come next...

BTW: I am in the process of ordering some of the texascomponents-resistors you suggested...which version would you prefer: the TX2352 or the TX2575 ?

Any other suggestion how to tweak the last bit of transparency and resolution out of this amp (it is not cool-sounding at all here at my house, very musical, very warm, very 3D)?
Click to expand...

So far I've been using TX2352 only, I recently ordered the other type but didn't compare them yet.

Silmics sound completely different than BG N. Silmics are clean, transparent, but some people may find them a bit bright and "thin". BG N have more "flavour", more image density: they tend to sound bit warmer, although still transparent. They are very good in portraying musical aspects of the presentation, although some people may find them too "thick". For each purspose there is a different cap and I find them both useful depending what I want to achieve.

Using Vishays should help with achieving more tranparency. You could also try adding bypasses to main filter caps, although this may not always work well.
 
#744
Thanks Peter! 🙂

Maybe you or somebody else could help me out choosing capacitor value for the PSU. The original F4 has 8 x 15 000 uF, on this board there is only room for 4 capacitors as I understand it. Should I therefore get 4 X 30 000 uF? :scratch: or is 4 X 15 000 enough?

I found Panasonic 27 000 and 33 000 at Digikey ...

Best!
Johan 😎
 
#749
Peter, Do you intend to produce a second batch ? If not, than it would be great if you can publish the gerber files, so that anyone could organize himself....this will become much more expensive than getting them directly from you, but at least someone could get them.
 
#752
Peters PSU ?'s

Finally got around to hooking up my first Peter PSU. Running two sections connected together as they are shipped.

I have several newbie questions.

I am way behind the eight ball here. I got the MUR3060's together, Getting 18V DC to the PSU. I tied ground together at the backend of the boards.

18V+ to V+ 0V to ground 18v+ to ground 0 to V+. This follows my take on Nelsons PSU.
I also wonder if the V- to ground should read -24v? Both read positive 24v, V+ or V- to ground.

I assume it's okay to just run V+ from two wires to each channel, the same with ground and V- since I don't have two Transformers.

The last thing is worse, I hooked up the second PSU (for second amp), backwards, and the electolytics started to sound like they were boiling. :bawling: Luckily they did not blow up. The front two got somewhat hot. Question is, are these electrolytics any good to use now, or can they short easy now?😕


Mike
 
#753
PSU

Well I am pretty sure I have figured this out, but let me know if I am off base here, or can point me somewhere to get my head out of the sand.

The 25v+ and 25- read fine. So the ground goes nowhere but back to earth ground via a CL60. Then I just hook up to the V+ and V- to the output board.

I did this, but Q5's source resistor smoked. :hot: I assume I have some other problem, but wanted to know if the single power supply is functioning as designed.
 
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