Peter,
I am in with 1 set of amp board (2x1channel) and 2 PSU boards
Do you still have these available?
One set is good for stereo amp and includes:
6x IRF240
6x IRF9240
2x2SK170
2xSJ74
2x TL431
4x1N4736 (6.8V Zener)
4x1N4148
IRF devices are sourced from DigiKey and matched to 0.01mV at 500mA. A set is CAD$65, shipping and fees included, 7 sets are available.
I am new here, can't send you email, Let me know, thx.
I am in with 1 set of amp board (2x1channel) and 2 PSU boards
Do you still have these available?
One set is good for stereo amp and includes:
6x IRF240
6x IRF9240
2x2SK170
2xSJ74
2x TL431
4x1N4736 (6.8V Zener)
4x1N4148
IRF devices are sourced from DigiKey and matched to 0.01mV at 500mA. A set is CAD$65, shipping and fees included, 7 sets are available.
I am new here, can't send you email, Let me know, thx.
One question, Peter:
Is it wise to solder the Rectifiers on the you PS-Board for a F4 ? Don't they need heatsinks ?
Is it wise to solder the Rectifiers on the you PS-Board for a F4 ? Don't they need heatsinks ?
The board was designed in such a way that rectifiers can be attached directly to the chassis for heat dissipation. I never liked those small heatsinks people use for rectifiers 😉
More info here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1237660#post1237660
More info here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1237660#post1237660
Attachments
Peter's open concept AMP
Peter,
What tools do you use to work with aluminum?
Do you extrude this stuff out of aluminum bar stock?
It is slick looking work.
Do you know if those heatsinks are still available?
It does not seem like there are a lot of alternatives being listed to the conrad heatsinks. Maybe my googling is not working so well.
Mike
Peter,
What tools do you use to work with aluminum?
Do you extrude this stuff out of aluminum bar stock?
It is slick looking work.
Do you know if those heatsinks are still available?
It does not seem like there are a lot of alternatives being listed to the conrad heatsinks. Maybe my googling is not working so well.
Mike
I use table saw with non ferrous metal blade and belt sander.
Those are ready made extrusion (flat bar and U-channel).
The heatsinks are still available from R-Theta (Ontario, Canada)
Those are ready made extrusion (flat bar and U-channel).
The heatsinks are still available from R-Theta (Ontario, Canada)
Power Supply PCB
Got my PCB sets in. Thanks for the quick shipment.
I got a few power supply questions.
Okay, assuming I dont want to use Jensen 4 poles.
I am a bit confused on the power supplies. If I want to do a stereo set, using one PS PCB, how does one get 120,000uf per channel?
I am thinking that I either need 30,000uf caps, hard to find, or mount 15,000uf on top and bottom to make this work. Any ideas?
I assume the 3 pin holes near the resistors are placed are for a regulated PS and not something in the BOM that mentioned.
A previous BOM mentions only four 15,000uf caps for a stereo set ( I beleive)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1416730&stamp=1201881362
Can someone guide me out of the sticks so I can order the right parts?
Mike
Got my PCB sets in. Thanks for the quick shipment.
I got a few power supply questions.
Okay, assuming I dont want to use Jensen 4 poles.
I am a bit confused on the power supplies. If I want to do a stereo set, using one PS PCB, how does one get 120,000uf per channel?
I am thinking that I either need 30,000uf caps, hard to find, or mount 15,000uf on top and bottom to make this work. Any ideas?
I assume the 3 pin holes near the resistors are placed are for a regulated PS and not something in the BOM that mentioned.
A previous BOM mentions only four 15,000uf caps for a stereo set ( I beleive)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1416730&stamp=1201881362
Can someone guide me out of the sticks so I can order the right parts?
Mike
I'm using Peter Daniel's power supply board. It is CRC configuration with two 15,000uf 35v caps on the +23v rail and two on the -23v rail on either side of the resistors. Four caps total per stereo amp. R is four 0.47R 5W resistors per rail.
Tom
Tom
Power Supply PCB
TMS, this would seem to be half of the PASS recommended supply. 60,000 total, not 120,000uf. If this is okay, I will go with that, it is cheaper. Otherwise I could try 4 47000, or try mounting some on top and bottom. Just wonder what others were doing with one PCB module for a stereo set.
I might have missed an earlier post about recommended layouts with one PS PCB.
Thanks
Mike
TMS, this would seem to be half of the PASS recommended supply. 60,000 total, not 120,000uf. If this is okay, I will go with that, it is cheaper. Otherwise I could try 4 47000, or try mounting some on top and bottom. Just wonder what others were doing with one PCB module for a stereo set.
I might have missed an earlier post about recommended layouts with one PS PCB.
Thanks
Mike
I just figured I'd get it put together that way and see how it performed. Worst case, solder 4 more caps via very short wires to the bottom of the board.
Re: Power Supply PCB
This is what I did and I'm very happy with the results.
mithomas said:...I could try 4 47000...
This is what I did and I'm very happy with the results.
Before I begin assembling Peter's boards, I was contemplating which spots it might be worthwhile or higher priority to spend the big bucks ($12 each!) for Vishay S102's or something similar. I already have PRP 1/2w and/or those DigiKey Phoenix mini's for everywhere else.
R1 - 1k series with input
R3, 4 - 10R on 2SK370/2SJ108 drains
R10-16 - 150R on gates
R2 - 47.5k shunt on input
I assume the various ones from the +/- rails down to the TL431 (R22/P2, R6, R8, R9/P1, R7, R5) as well as the R24C4/R25/C3 pairs are somewhat less critical?
I have two monoblocks going together which will really add up fast, so any advice is appreciated 🙂
Tom
R1 - 1k series with input
R3, 4 - 10R on 2SK370/2SJ108 drains
R10-16 - 150R on gates
R2 - 47.5k shunt on input
I assume the various ones from the +/- rails down to the TL431 (R22/P2, R6, R8, R9/P1, R7, R5) as well as the R24C4/R25/C3 pairs are somewhat less critical?
I have two monoblocks going together which will really add up fast, so any advice is appreciated 🙂
Tom
tms0425 said:Before I begin assembling Peter's boards, I was contemplating which spots it might be worthwhile or higher priority to spend the big bucks...
Can you afford to make a basic board and a high dollar board in order to compare? You may be throwing money away with little compensation in return... but then again, there's always the psychological factor. 😀 😉 😀
Yeah, I ordered four boards for that exact reason, but I've just bought parts for two boards so far. I'm just being lazy and don't feel like pulling the boards and parts back out too many times.
Can't say that I blame ya, but in the interest of DIY, you could construct a high dollar left channel and an inexpensive right. Then sit back and compare the two.
I'd love to hear the results.🙂
I'd love to hear the results.🙂
I'm using Caddocks MK132 for most of the resistors except 1k Vishays S102 which I already had on hand and Rikens 10 ohm. As to power resistors, Mills 5W would be obvious choice (if you want to upgrade).
That's what I used in Zv9 and it worked well.
As to the caps, 4 x 15,000uF might still be enough for a stereo amp and Percy has on sale Nichicon Super Through 15,000/63 caps at $15/pc (50% regular price)
I used two of them per Zv9 monoblock and again, it worked fine.
That's what I used in Zv9 and it worked well.
As to the caps, 4 x 15,000uF might still be enough for a stereo amp and Percy has on sale Nichicon Super Through 15,000/63 caps at $15/pc (50% regular price)
I used two of them per Zv9 monoblock and again, it worked fine.
Peter Daniel said:I'm using Caddocks MK132 for most of the resistors except 1k Vishays S102 which I already had on hand and Rikens 10 ohm. As to power resistors, Mills 5W would be obvious choice (if you want to upgrade).
That's what I used in Zv9 and it worked well.
As to the caps, 4 x 15,000uF might still be enough for a stereo amp and Percy has on sale Nichicon Super Through 15,000/63 caps at $15/pc (50% regular price)
I used two of them per Zv9 monoblock and again, it worked fine.
Peter,
I have the Mills 0.47R's, so planned to use those. My PS caps are Panasonic TS-HA's for now, so hopefully 30,000uf per rail is ok.
I assume the most critical resistors would be R1, then R3/R4 which are directly in the signal path? How about the 150R gate resistors? I was just hesitating on those since there are 24 for my two amps.
There were suggestions somewhere for BG N 100uf at C1/C2 (I'm using 220u Pana FC's now). Not sure how much voltage swing they'd see though, I thought the TL431 had about 8vdc across it. Can the N's be 16v or do they really need to be the 50v variety?
Thanks
Obvious choice because of matching footprint, Caddocks will not fit the board unless the pins are formed properly.
Besides, Caddocks should not sound better and Mills are much cheaper.
Besides, Caddocks should not sound better and Mills are much cheaper.
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