One pair of twin daughters is enough! Especially now that I'm paying for college for both. I also have a son, and the three of them are in college simultaneously. At least my son is working full time and can partly pay his own way.
All three have performed at Avery Fisher Hall in Lincoln Center, and two of the three have performed at Carnegie Hall, and the third just texted us today and said she's scheduled for Carnegie in March. All of this audio stuff I do is paying off.
How do you get to Carnegie Hall??? The Q train, because I can tell you none of my kids ever practiced!!!
One daughter played viola at Carnegie, and was in the chorus of a performance of Messiah at Avery Fisher. The other was in the chorus at Avery Fisher, and will be in the chorus at Carnegie, but she's a piano major. My son played the cello at both. We thought he wanted to be a rock star on guitar, but instead is now flying jets for a regional airline.
I just got off the phone with the new owner of my Lances and she says I could easily sell them to half her dorm. She didn't realize they cost so much though when I told her what I'd have to charge, even for an unfinished pair. Then the amp, cables, before you know it you're up to ~$250 in cost. Add in my own nominal mark up and just forget it for a poor college student.
And then she hit me up for an electronic practice piano...
And then she hit me up for an electronic practice piano...
Interesting indeed how that works out - my son now early 30s went through something similar when he had time to spend playing acoustic then electric bass a few years back.
"Gee, I think I'm gonna halfway give up on the acoustic- after playing my buddies' dad's Gibson D42, my $600 Used Yamaha is, well ......., "
But now that he's busy running a small restaurant, time for playing has become rare indeed
"Gee, I think I'm gonna halfway give up on the acoustic- after playing my buddies' dad's Gibson D42, my $600 Used Yamaha is, well ......., "
But now that he's busy running a small restaurant, time for playing has become rare indeed
Tl with BVR
I am very interested by Shrike FE103 SOL Labyrinth.
I have never tried labyrinth enclosures.
I prefer the floorstander to have the driver at the level of the ear. I don't want to use some feet to elevate them and to preserve the effect of the ground for the low frequencies.
I had a first idea:
Is it possible to put the vent at the bottom of the enclosure rather than in the low back?
The second idea would consist in making a BVR floorstander, like Chang. Is it a silly idea ? Thank you for your advices.
Guillaume
I am very interested by Shrike FE103 SOL Labyrinth.
I have never tried labyrinth enclosures.
I prefer the floorstander to have the driver at the level of the ear. I don't want to use some feet to elevate them and to preserve the effect of the ground for the low frequencies.
I had a first idea:
Is it possible to put the vent at the bottom of the enclosure rather than in the low back?
The second idea would consist in making a BVR floorstander, like Chang. Is it a silly idea ? Thank you for your advices.
Guillaume
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I am very interested by Shrike FE103 SOL Labyrinth.
I have never tried labyrinth enclosures.
I prefer the floorstander to have the driver at the level of the ear. I don't want to use some feet to elevate them and to preserve the effect of the ground for the low frequencies.
I had a first idea:
Is it possible to put the vent at the bottom of the enclosure rather than in the low back?
The second idea would consist in making a BVR floorstander, like Chang. Is it a silly idea ? Thank you for your advices.
Guillaume
If you assume that the BVR is 12in high by 12in deep, it adds a bit more bass gain so you don't have such a drastic baffle step as shown in the first figure (baseline Shrike), but you get a nasty resonance at 276Hz - probably due to the length of the BVR cavity itself. However, with appropriate felt wool lining the inside, and some stuffing behind the driver, the resonances will probably not be that bad.
Here is the baseline Shrike. Note the large baffle step loss. Will need a substantial BSC like 1mH + 8R to compensate and it will kill your sensitivity down to circa 84dB:
Here is the Shrike with BVR, you gain 2-3dB down to 60Hz:
Adding a 1mH + 6R BSC to the driver you can now get this response with the BVR - which is an 85dB sensitive system overall with -3dB of 54Hz. Appears to be quite balanced and I would imagine, would sound pretty good:
I hope that helps.
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Of course it helps, a lot !! I don't expect so much!
Many thanks for everything, it is very interesting and it pleases me that you made the effort to make a simulation.
I am not be able to do that due to the lack of knowledge and of practice to make all this, but I've some ideas.
( On the other hand, I manage well in electronics, especially tube amp).
I cannot resign to take back plans or designs without bringing them a modification or personal touch!
Thus apparently, my idea was not bad and the BVR brings something positive in the balance of the speaker.
I had seen that the BVR was especially used for the reflex bass and I also saw that it had been applied to voigt enclosures (vampyr v).
Thus, why not on a TL?
It's a pity to lose so much efficiency because of the filter BSC, I can rather try a large suprabaffle.(I use only class-A amp of low power)
I had the same problem with Suzy Chang. The enclosure is thin and the driver is placed very meadows of the top.
With a suprabaffle on , the sound becomes more well-balanced and I did not put BSC, just a 1 ohm resistance for increase QTS and damping factor.
All this was done with my ears, without simulation and measurements.I did a lot of tests.
You say a dimension of 12 * 12 " for the BVR. I thought bigger to have a enclosure about 39.4" (1m) high. I do not know how to calculate it.
Is there a formula?
There is a peak at 60 hz in the BVR graph. Therefore, is it possible to increase the length of the TL a little for better low frequency ?
I see that you used Akabak, I do not know this software but I want to learn to use it.
Thank you again !!
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Killmister,
You are welcome. You were in luck because I happen to have a very similar TL all modeled for an FF105WK TL described here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279546-ff105wk-tl-desktop-bookshelf.html
Thus it was pretty simple to put in the dimensions of the Shrike and then add a BVR segment. If you want to make the BVR taller to make the whole cabinet 39in tall, that will work fine. It won't change the bass gain too much. You could either extend the final 11in long leg of the TL to get rid of that bass bump at 60Hz or make it narrower to push tuning lower. Since you have room making it longer is certainly possible. I would just leave it alone though as you need the bass amplitude to prevent any more BSC from bein applied. You will need a substantially wider supra baffle to make a difference.
You might want to look at the Mini Karlsonator designs. Those don't need any BSC due to substantial bass gain from the ML-TQWT TL design with a Karlson coupler on the final expansion. I can model one for you over in that thread and would imagine you can get a f3 of 61Hz at close to native 90dB sensitivity of the driver.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...onator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-150.html#post4453513
You are welcome. You were in luck because I happen to have a very similar TL all modeled for an FF105WK TL described here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279546-ff105wk-tl-desktop-bookshelf.html
Thus it was pretty simple to put in the dimensions of the Shrike and then add a BVR segment. If you want to make the BVR taller to make the whole cabinet 39in tall, that will work fine. It won't change the bass gain too much. You could either extend the final 11in long leg of the TL to get rid of that bass bump at 60Hz or make it narrower to push tuning lower. Since you have room making it longer is certainly possible. I would just leave it alone though as you need the bass amplitude to prevent any more BSC from bein applied. You will need a substantially wider supra baffle to make a difference.
You might want to look at the Mini Karlsonator designs. Those don't need any BSC due to substantial bass gain from the ML-TQWT TL design with a Karlson coupler on the final expansion. I can model one for you over in that thread and would imagine you can get a f3 of 61Hz at close to native 90dB sensitivity of the driver.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...onator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-150.html#post4453513
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Just an update:
In K'nator thread, GregB has already drawn up plans for the FE-103 SOL Karlsonator with the above specified 0.44x and 0.55x scaling.
Here is the predicted response for bass (with baffle step loss):
Here are the plans: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/239338-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-150.html
No. I will ask Scott, i could be wrong, but the high Fs and low Vas make a decent TL unlikely.
ie optimum miniOnken for the FF85wk is 2.5 litre, for the 10F 0.8 litre, one could expect a scan, one would expect an optimum TL be be similarily smaller than The Lance, but that doesn't leave much volume to actually make a line.
Even only going down to maybe 120-130 Hz, the nScan-Ken gives a pretty solid illusion of bass, perhaps because the top end is similarily depressed.
Quite disconcerting hearing such big sound coming out of such a little speaker.
Until people started using & calling it a FR, SS had it classified as a midrange.
dave
ie optimum miniOnken for the FF85wk is 2.5 litre, for the 10F 0.8 litre, one could expect a scan, one would expect an optimum TL be be similarily smaller than The Lance, but that doesn't leave much volume to actually make a line.
Even only going down to maybe 120-130 Hz, the nScan-Ken gives a pretty solid illusion of bass, perhaps because the top end is similarily depressed.
Quite disconcerting hearing such big sound coming out of such a little speaker.
Until people started using & calling it a FR, SS had it classified as a midrange.
dave
Scott has gotten back quickly.
10F/8414G-10 (the cheap one) will work OK in Lance (alignment-wise)
10F/8424G 4" Midrange 8 ohm & 10F/4424G, 4" Midrange 4 ohm not so much.
He makes some suggestions to improve the performance for the last 2, but not sufficient to have them make the cut for the set. If you really want to try it, email me.
dave
10F/8414G-10 (the cheap one) will work OK in Lance (alignment-wise)
10F/8424G 4" Midrange 8 ohm & 10F/4424G, 4" Midrange 4 ohm not so much.
He makes some suggestions to improve the performance for the last 2, but not sufficient to have them make the cut for the set. If you really want to try it, email me.
dave
I just started cutting for 2 pair of Lances, one for me and one for the other twin. Since I bought a 5' x 5' sheet of Baltic Birch I have enough for 2 more pair too. Maybe one of my daughter's friends will ultimately be interested. I'm not cutting or buying drivers until I get a firm commitment, aka cash, from a buyer.
I should have measured my car's openings. 5x5 didn't fit so I had them cut it in half, but half to a lumber yard guy means 29" and 31". It's a good thing my cut plan was only 28" for 2 pair. I didn't realize how unwieldy a 5x5 sheet would be, even compared to 4x8.
I should have measured my car's openings. 5x5 didn't fit so I had them cut it in half, but half to a lumber yard guy means 29" and 31". It's a good thing my cut plan was only 28" for 2 pair. I didn't realize how unwieldy a 5x5 sheet would be, even compared to 4x8.