why are old school amps worth so much?

I'm not sure 200376165926 now 200378941268

Yeah I have a couple newer amps I could let go and just waiting. Some are very high prices bid on, has to be people bidding their own stuff up. Or they put a $100 amp on for $150 and put a bid on it and it sits there.
 
Hmm, that's odd -sold, but relisted. I may know who the first winner was, and that's not the seller. The description changed slightly, so maybe there was a problem.

Looks like a late 70's LP, probably the first model, about the time of the Fosgate PR 250/2100. A neat piece of nostalgia.
 
I don't have them up now, but think the scratches in the cover are different? Maybe two different amps? Yeah, too ancient for me I was mostly into the xx02 and a few x01 series but I can do without considering their value. I need to test these 1002s I have speaking of that. Summer went by and forgot all about them until my friend asked me about them. Had a mrv 5ch 50w/ch in my car so would be a good comparison.
 
You sir are the man!!! I feel stupid for not being able to find it on rf's site, but in fact I couldn't manage. Huge thanks again!!

I love this part: High Level Input – “B.T.L.” Type
This configuration is used for source units that have “B.T.L.” speaker outputs (Bridged
Transformer Less not Bacon Tomato & Lettuce).
 
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I have one of the explod mobile es xm7527, it appears well built. Is a 2x75 and uses some strange FX50SMJ Mitsu outputs.

Sorry, back to the Sony stuff. I have an XM5540. Seems like the typical cheap Japanese single sided PCB, but the outputs are advertised as "hand-matched" and it actually sounds quite good. After I removed the broken ALPS VR and got it going, I biamped it and wound up listening to half of the Pearl Jam VS CD before I knew it. It just sounded that good even at only 55WPC.
 
Sorry, back to the Sony stuff. I have an XM5540. Seems like the typical cheap Japanese single sided PCB, but the outputs are advertised as "hand-matched" and it actually sounds quite good. After I removed the broken ALPS VR and got it going, I biamped it and wound up listening to half of the Pearl Jam VS CD before I knew it. It just sounded that good even at only 55WPC.
Been a while since I looked at it, but I do recall the board had each section of the amp labeled as with plug wires and such. The SMD is under so it looks clean from the top. I never listened to it.
 
I must say I'm a sucker for the red Orion amps and I've done the 275SX board into a 225HCCA heatsink a couple times too!

Just recently, I traded my old 425HCCA for a 250HCCA and a 250HCCA R. Even now, the red amps sell for quite a bit on eBay. I look for broken ones and repair them since they usually go for a lot cheaper.
 
I went from collecting Linear Power amplifiers over a two year period to selling every single one of them. I found that my memory faded with time and they weren't as good as I remembered them once I tried to use all Linear Power amps in an install. Truthfully, I don't know what was worse, the fact that most couldn't make rated power with 14.1 volts of input voltage or the fact that they ran at 40 to 50% efficiency to make the power that they did produce. Also, when compared to amplifiers known to be truly flat, I found that LP tended to color the sound.

Another down side to these amplifiers was the maintenance they required to get them sounding right and keep them sounding right, assuming it could be done. I sent one amplifier to be repaired due to noise issues, only to have it return with the same problem. I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in another one, thinking that would help, but it still exhibited a weird high frequency oscillation noise that none of my other non LP amplifiers had. Oh and I can't forget the nice hiss on digital silence, no matter what position the gain was in. I don't know if this was a characteristic of the self-oscillating power supply or weak input filtering, but I do know that it caused me to just give up on the brand all together. Paying a premium for the name plus $30 in parts while spending countless hours of troubleshooting turned out to make LP fall into the "more trouble than it's worth" category.

In retrospect, I often wonder why that particular brand goes for so much money on eBay and on the various forums. In all honesty, I found they weren't that great.
 
I went from collecting Linear Power amplifiers over a two year period to selling every single one of them. I found that my memory faded with time and they weren't as good as I remembered them once I tried to use all Linear Power amps in an install. Truthfully, I don't know what was worse, the fact that most couldn't make rated power with 14.1 volts of input voltage or the fact that they ran at 40 to 50% efficiency to make the power that they did produce. Also, when compared to amplifiers known to be truly flat, I found that LP tended to color the sound.

Another down side to these amplifiers was the maintenance they required to get them sounding right and keep them sounding right, assuming it could be done. I sent one amplifier to be repaired due to noise issues, only to have it return with the same problem. I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in another one, thinking that would help, but it still exhibited a weird high frequency oscillation noise that none of my other non LP amplifiers had. Oh and I can't forget the nice hiss on digital silence, no matter what position the gain was in. I don't know if this was a characteristic of the self-oscillating power supply or weak input filtering, but I do know that it caused me to just give up on the brand all together. Paying a premium for the name plus $30 in parts while spending countless hours of troubleshooting turned out to make LP fall into the "more trouble than it's worth" category.

In retrospect, I often wonder why that particular brand goes for so much money on eBay and on the various forums. In all honesty, I found they weren't that great.



AMEN !!!!:headshot:
 
I have to agree with you on this one. I too had a collection of LP amps,only to be let down by their performance. 4-5002,8001,4-2200,2-2002. And something one day said to me "amc32! 'Yes'. 'You need to auditon one of those amps." So I took a 5002iq that i removed from a friends car and bought. And it no longer worked. Hmm! Try another one, it works.Floor Noise,Transformer Buzzes. OpAmp Swaps,Motorola(ON)replaced outs.Everyone had simialr problems. The hard wiring they do on the amps is shoddy,trans-windings loose

I tried an Orion 2150sx laying around excpecting to be disappointed.The Orion sounded better and more neutral. With eq off. Easier to fix, T0-220 vs T03 transistors. In my opinion Orion is a better audiophile investment.

Still would be a LP just to resale though
 
I had a 5 - 1502IQ, 2 - 5002, 2 - 652I, a 1752 and a LP150 in my collection. The LP150 was one of the nicer amplifiers out of the bunch because it didn't have the noise issues. The only down side was I could get the LP150 to go into protect without even trying.

I will also have to agree with Orion amplifiers from that generation being better sounding because I have a few of those myself. Oh crap, I hope we didn't just increase the value of the older Orion amplifiers.
 
Anyone remember audio art? Some of these still bring a premium. I had a 100HC for awhile. High current 2 channel, 1100 RMS into 1 ohm mono. Actually handled a 1 ohm load nicely!

They come up on ebay once in awhile and cost quite a bit, the bigger ones. I always thought they were built excellent

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Audio_Art_100HC/

Also, has anyone else noted that people are labeling amps only 5 years old "old school"?? I have seen plenty of stuff made after 2000, esp. fosgate stuff, including the grey bbq amps and power hx2 subs, labeled as "old school".....
 
Also, has anyone else noted that people are labeling amps only 5 years old "old school"?? I have seen plenty of stuff made after 2000, esp. fosgate stuff, including the grey bbq amps and power hx2 subs, labeled as "old school".....


5 years is about the current support limitation you will find most amp makers are using as their window of line drop. < or as I like to call it "Take the money and run time " Plus if they stop fixing it you will buy the new stuff they are selling this year, now don't you know.... Plus people will say anything if they think it will sell a amp they want to get rid of.....
Heck I had Kenwood home gear in my first vehicle back in 1975, so I guess that makes old Kenwood home gear "Old School Car Audio Gear ' lol lol lol It was a KA-6004 powered off a inverter...I guess I was ahead of the pack back then, since there was no car Audio business above 8-tracks and Early Pioneer Supertuners, and that new newfangled thing called a "cassette deck".....CD's were still on Star Trek back then played by little wooden blocks painted all sorts of pretty colors....😀

Oh what a long road it has been.....🙂

As for all those poor unfortunate soles still believing in LP, well the world still has lots of room for everybody. I have seen worse gear, but it did not sell for bank like you folks are paying for a fairly mundane Motorola book design with a very poorly regulated, crude and noisy power supply.... TO-3's can only make up for so much other short comings folks, but enjoy whatever makes you happy I guess:cloud9:
 
I dont know, while I have never used a linear power amp myself, it seems that there are MANY people who are very happy with them, and test show they are underrated.

I want to see independent, third party verification of these Linear Power amplifiers making more power than what they are rated at with 12.5 volts of input. Heck, in 1991, Car Audio and Electronics tested the Linear Power 8002SW and it was the first to fail the 1/3 power test AND it produced a whopping 660 watts. Too bad it was rated to produce 800.

For reference:
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showpost.php?p=455389&postcount=109

http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showpost.php?p=455392&postcount=112

I just wish that original article could be scanned in and uploaded so I can further use it as proof.😀 Also, when I brought article up to the Ell Pee fan boys, they said that CA&E was "biased" against Linear Power and that it wouldn't do that on music.

Sadly, they were wrong because I was able to make my 1752 and LP150 bridged to 8 ohms mono go into protect while playing Drum and Bass tracks. In fact, I could invoke a shutdown in 30 seconds or less with the right track AND I was no where near full volume. Oddly, my $150 Clarion DPX1851 doesn't exhibit this same behavior on the same track at full volume. Go figure...

I coined a phrase that sums up my experience with Linear Power... "It is better to live and learn than to die a dumbass!"😛😀
 
Heck, in 1991, Car Audio and Electronics tested the Linear Power 8002SW and it was the first to fail the 1/3 power test AND it produced a whopping 660 watts. Too bad it was rated to produce 800.



I just wish that original article could be scanned in and uploaded so I can further use it as proof.😀 Also, when I brought article up to the Ell Pee fan boys, they said that CA&E was "biased" against Linear Power and that it wouldn't do that on music.

No bias against LP in that article. Technically, the HiFonics Colossus was the first to fail. More to come on that in a minute...

I'm no enormous LP fan, and I always thought they were expensive. But I liked my 2002 on midbass/midrange, it held it's own against a SS D200, and a Zapco Z220. Same car, same speakers, swapped amps only. BTW, I paid exactly $100 for each of the three those amps, and they were 2-3 yrs old at the time.

I never used it on sub, and didn't notice any excessive power supply noise or hiss. The LP had an edge on the other two in terms of midbass punch with 6 ohm speakers and heavy notch filters (i.e., series resistance).



As for the article, it's not a great test for any of the 5 amps. Final outcome, they were ranked by measured power output per channel into 4 ohms:
5) Orion GS-500 (gold version of 2250), 225Wx2
4) PPI 2350DM, 396Wx2
3) HiFonics Colossus, 570Wx2
2) Rockford Fosgate Power 1000C, 588Wx2
1) Linear Power 8002, pair of monoblocks (not SW), 660Wx2


Testing was done at 12.5V, and they mentioned significant more power may be produced with an unregulated supply at 14.4V. The LP was the only

The ranking made little sense, and the moral of the story lies in the problems they had simply trying to measure output power. If you can't supply power to it, don't connect it.

The Colossus actually produced the most power in any available configuration:
-Colossus, 1500W mono into 4 ohms, $1800
-8002 (a pair of them), 1320W stereo into 4 ohms, $3200 (per pair)😱
-Orion GS-500, 790W mono into 4 ohms, $2999 (Gold version)
-PPI-2350DM, 792W stereo into 4 ohms, $1850
-Power 1000C, 1176W 2-channels into 4 ohms, $2650



1/3 power test:
-Colossus cut back it's maximum output power after 3 minutes (clipped at >40W), with transients up to 180W
-8002 shut off after 5 minutes, and went into protection cycle.
-GS-500 was "the only amp to run a full 30 minutes at one-third power without shutting down". A few minutes later, a supply transistor blew during a power test.
-Power 1000C ran for 8 minutes before overheating and going into protection cycle
-PPI-2350DM apparently ran for 23 minutes without cutting off.

The conditions for the 1/3 power test were not specified and barely even hinted at. It seems that the amplifiers were asked to run at 1/3 of rated power for 30 minutes, with a silly looking array of 16 x 20W resistors dunked into a bucket of water as a test load.

The article is certainly NOT biased against the LP. If anything, it's way too forgiving of all these expensive monsters. Geez, at $2650, with an internal temperature controlled fan, you'd think the Power 1000 would have had no problem running at 80Wx2 for 30 minutes.

My head hurts after trying to make sense of it, it looks as if the result is "these are all really big powerful amps, and if you're actually going to buy one you already know what what you want anyway."

I'd say the Colossus won, especialy considering the price difference. BTW, it's more than twice the power of a single mono LP8002, each into 4 ohms, but was only $200 more than the 8002.

The whole article is 16 pages including pics (we all want to see the pics), and would take me a month to upload on dial-up.

I'll scan it anyway and post a thumbnail link to the Features/Specs/test results page.

0ldSch00lf00l, if you want to PM me a snail-mail address, I'll put it on a disc and USPS it to you. You can then post or link for everyone to see if you like.