He must have bought up a bunch of them at some point. Up until a year or so ago Ampslab even had them available on the site separate from the kit. I bought enough for my Elliott P101 build so it runs them too.
My last three DIY amps are powered using SMPS: AEM6000 (AB), Hafler P3000 mod (AB), Alpha Nirvana (A).
Good bye bulky and heavy metals 😉
But they can still be found in old "recycled" equipment.
It's worth keeping eyes open
Not exelon but EXICON and not everything in their range is 2 dies. Only 250W versions use parallel 2 dies. And they are not at all worse than the Hitachi lateral ones. https://www.profusionplc.com/parts/ecx10n20 and https://www.profusionplc.com/parts/ecx10p20 for example is single die versions and can't say a single bad word. I have been able to make a comparison with Hitachi 2SK135 and ECX10N20 single ended class A and there was no difference when listening by ear, nor when measuring with measuring instruments. But it is a waste to use such good and reliable transistors in such pointless designs that can give the output only a few W of useful energy and heat the rest as heat in our era of "climate warming".
A few years ago, I bought a quantity of Exicons as a spare, as the ones sold under the name Alfet ALF08xxx and ALF16xxx by TT semelab were already out of production (I also have them, both single and double die, plastic and metal versions, and they are also really pure-bred lateral MOSFETs, but they have some internal differences that must be kept in mind!).
Exicons are currently in production and available. Unfortunately, they stopped producing metal TO3 can specimens because the market was small, but fortunately, plastic-cased Laterals are still in production and available.
https://www.profusionplc.com/type/lateral-mosfet
Haven't been able to burn out a single lateral MOSFET since 2007, they are quite forgiving and reliable, and if you follow the differences arising from their characteristics, it is a foolproof device.
I used N and P pairs in my very first R.G. Slone 250W Mirror-Image Professional Audio Amplifier design from his book "High-Power Audio Amplifier Construction Manual", pages 341-344, based on circuit by Fig. 11.8
It is still in daily use and has not had a single problem over this time and new owner is happy with this amp sound.
Another amplifier where I also used Exicon Lateral MOSFETS is the 6.21 design of "The Audiophile`s project Sourcebook" by the same author. I don't claim to be the absolute truth, but from a personal standpoint, the best sounding amp I've ever owned..
I feel we are wondering of from what OP is asking about. Lets just say that its important to find a kit where the parts are still available.
Again I would like to propose building a state of the art phono pre, since that is something he will need for sure in the future no matter in which direction he goes with speakers amps and so. Also I will say that for all other HiFi components, it is more expensive to buy the parts to build one than buying a brand new one of same quality. This does not count if you get the most expensive components for free by scrapping.
Cheers!
Again I would like to propose building a state of the art phono pre, since that is something he will need for sure in the future no matter in which direction he goes with speakers amps and so. Also I will say that for all other HiFi components, it is more expensive to buy the parts to build one than buying a brand new one of same quality. This does not count if you get the most expensive components for free by scrapping.
Cheers!
@Sgt.Elias
Augmenting upon post #7 by member @twocents, for the Class AB category, also consider these two:
LM3886DR by Neurochrome - you will need to design your PS, enclosure, etc…Documentation is excellent.
Akitika GT102 and PR-102 - these come with all parts, power supply, toroids, enclosures, essentially everything. Documentation is excellent.
Best,
Anand.
Augmenting upon post #7 by member @twocents, for the Class AB category, also consider these two:
LM3886DR by Neurochrome - you will need to design your PS, enclosure, etc…Documentation is excellent.
Akitika GT102 and PR-102 - these come with all parts, power supply, toroids, enclosures, essentially everything. Documentation is excellent.
Best,
Anand.
@Sgt.Elias
I should also add, that the discrete (non LM3886 versions) of the Akitika GT series, namely the GT108 and GT104 are also options; they have slightly better measurements than the GT102 but the designer doesn’t know if they are sonically better sounding. The GT108 is optimized for 8 ohms, and the GT104 is for 4 ohms.
The GT102 is for 8 ohms, and there is a version called the Z4 for 4 ohms (both LM3886 based).
So that’s a total of 4 different amplifiers from the Akitika group that are build possibilities. You will see that the manuals are incredibly well documented, similar to Heathkit, etc…from the 50’s and 60’s - the idea is to invite builders with a poor electronics background to build these designs.
Neurochrome‘s builds require a little more work, but he does offer YouTube build videos as well, particularly of the Modulus-86 which is a premium design with lower distortion than all of the Akitika amplifiers and the Neurochrome LM3886DR but more expensive as well.
Best,
Anand.
I should also add, that the discrete (non LM3886 versions) of the Akitika GT series, namely the GT108 and GT104 are also options; they have slightly better measurements than the GT102 but the designer doesn’t know if they are sonically better sounding. The GT108 is optimized for 8 ohms, and the GT104 is for 4 ohms.
The GT102 is for 8 ohms, and there is a version called the Z4 for 4 ohms (both LM3886 based).
So that’s a total of 4 different amplifiers from the Akitika group that are build possibilities. You will see that the manuals are incredibly well documented, similar to Heathkit, etc…from the 50’s and 60’s - the idea is to invite builders with a poor electronics background to build these designs.
Neurochrome‘s builds require a little more work, but he does offer YouTube build videos as well, particularly of the Modulus-86 which is a premium design with lower distortion than all of the Akitika amplifiers and the Neurochrome LM3886DR but more expensive as well.
Best,
Anand.
First, welcome! Enjoy the DIY journey.
I like that you started with your priorities and goals. You also stated your room size.
As you've seen, the advice you receive will be as varied as each of our own experiences, but you'll likely find some overlap.
A few things that may help further.
Is heat a consideration for you? Is energy usage? Many may disregard the heat generated by and/or the energy usage of certain products, but some people find those things 'up the list of priorities' when choosing their gear. Other than some debates re: sound quality, this topic rises to the range of 'often discussed' when people may consider a Class A or Class A/B, vs. a Class D amplifier. It may or may not be important to you, but I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet.
In your research, does anything re: amplifiers and/or speakers just jump out at you? Part of DIY is succumbing to personal passions regardless of performance. If you love your gear, it will love you back. If you've lusted after a vacuum tube amplifier, then by all means build one. If it doesn't interest you, then move to something that does spark a bit of desire. Have you heard anyone else's gear that has just knocked your socks off? What about it did you love? What was it?
How long do you plan on using this gear? A reasonable way to approach some choices re: the speakers and the amplifier would be based on how loudly you want to listen in your current room. In that room, you'll likely need far less power than you might expect. However, you may be disappointed once you move out only to find that a combination that performed so well in your bedroom doesn't quite have the oomph you'd like for your living room system (as an example).
One last consideration to noodle over. In my experience, DIY gear has some resale value, but it's not great. Planning ahead may save you a bit of cash along the (almost inevitable) path to building more gear. With that said, would you entertain second-hand DIY for some of your gear? There are some builders in these forums that construct gear that I'd put up against almost any commercial products not only in terms of performance, but for fit and finish/aesthetics. If you hunt around, you can find some absolutely incredible deals. Using the WTB tag in the swap meet will likely get you some excellent choices. I can't predict what may happen. However, I have seen some incredibly generous people donate to, or heavily discount items for, a new DIYer on a budget. There is a beautiful 'pay-it-forward' attitude among many that wander the forums.
Enjoy the tunes!
I like that you started with your priorities and goals. You also stated your room size.
As you've seen, the advice you receive will be as varied as each of our own experiences, but you'll likely find some overlap.
A few things that may help further.
Is heat a consideration for you? Is energy usage? Many may disregard the heat generated by and/or the energy usage of certain products, but some people find those things 'up the list of priorities' when choosing their gear. Other than some debates re: sound quality, this topic rises to the range of 'often discussed' when people may consider a Class A or Class A/B, vs. a Class D amplifier. It may or may not be important to you, but I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet.
In your research, does anything re: amplifiers and/or speakers just jump out at you? Part of DIY is succumbing to personal passions regardless of performance. If you love your gear, it will love you back. If you've lusted after a vacuum tube amplifier, then by all means build one. If it doesn't interest you, then move to something that does spark a bit of desire. Have you heard anyone else's gear that has just knocked your socks off? What about it did you love? What was it?
How long do you plan on using this gear? A reasonable way to approach some choices re: the speakers and the amplifier would be based on how loudly you want to listen in your current room. In that room, you'll likely need far less power than you might expect. However, you may be disappointed once you move out only to find that a combination that performed so well in your bedroom doesn't quite have the oomph you'd like for your living room system (as an example).
One last consideration to noodle over. In my experience, DIY gear has some resale value, but it's not great. Planning ahead may save you a bit of cash along the (almost inevitable) path to building more gear. With that said, would you entertain second-hand DIY for some of your gear? There are some builders in these forums that construct gear that I'd put up against almost any commercial products not only in terms of performance, but for fit and finish/aesthetics. If you hunt around, you can find some absolutely incredible deals. Using the WTB tag in the swap meet will likely get you some excellent choices. I can't predict what may happen. However, I have seen some incredibly generous people donate to, or heavily discount items for, a new DIYer on a budget. There is a beautiful 'pay-it-forward' attitude among many that wander the forums.
Enjoy the tunes!
Hi,
Have you an advice for a good LM3886 diy PCB (I like to make my own PCB, despite I know that Neurochrome PCB is excellent)?
Believe me or not, I used one from the LM3886 datasheet. Not the best one, but it was 2001, 22 years ago, and there was no choices on the market to speak of, so etched myself one from the datasheet. The layout of the PCB is decent, but it is little too large.
Take an 8"x8"x14" Amazon cardboard box. Cut round hole in one end uncovering the driver cone. I used a knife. Poke 4 holes with a pick for #6-32 x 1" screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/90604A152 Put #6 washers on the screws & nuts to keep from pulling through. https://www.mcmaster.com/92141A008 Use elastic stop nuts to keep screws from coming unscrewed. https://www.mcmaster.com/91831A007
Solder #18 zip cord to speaker terminals or use .187 female flag crimp terminals. Cut 1" square hole in back of box for bass reflex. Run cord out the hole. Screw zip cord to screw terminals on amplifier.
Lay under the coffee table in the TV room or under the communion table at church. At church spray paint over the amazon logos. Grill cloth is optional.
At low wattage, the cardboard will not vibrate. I use about 1/8 watt usually, with peaks of 7 from TV channels. I had a 75 w/ch amp (MMA-875t) but it never got near the power limit. If you want to use the 40 W the VIsiton driver is rated to, build of 3/4" birch plywood. Cuts will be with sabre saw, holes will have to be drilled with 9/64" bit.
I used a $13 toslink to RCA jack converter from ebay to drive the amp.
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I read topics and think that maybe we are in the wrong place because a while ago, before the current "new normal", it was basic that, being a real DIY enthusiast, we did things as much as possible with our own hands. Today it seems that even making a circuit board at home (which should be the general basis of interest in electronics) has become an insurmountable difficulty...which is very sad in itself. Participatory immersion in electronics as such seems to have degraded wildly in just the last few years.
It seems that today's normality is to buy a ready-made modules, necessarily make a video of its "unpacking", which is uploaded then to YouTube, and then, if somehow miraculously* (because many dont want even read some basic rules) these purchased modules manage to be assembled together CORRECTLY, then they beat themselves chests with their fists and talk about themselves as real DIY-builders and innovators. .. I have noticed the same downward trend in corresponding forum of my northern European home country. 10+ years ago I described in detail how to quickly and productively etch printed circuit boards in a solution of hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide, 2 years ago I received threats and promises to send police to my door because I dared to give "dangerous instructions" for reminding myself of the same thing. I then also turned to the world's top chemical institutes to refute the claims of those who shared idiotic recommendations, they confirmed that the method I described is no more dangerous than, for example, etching with ammonium persulfate. And if I dare to talk about a printed circuit board on an aluminum laminate, I can imagine how many people scratch their heads thinking...what will I use to etch it 😀 😀 The reality seems to be that true DIY electronics is sadly a thing of the past. In the case of DIY = hobby and hobby, we shouldn't say that somewhere it is possible to get the thing cheaper in modules and that the DIY thing should have some "aftermarket" financial value. DIY doesn't and measuring everything in money doesn't add up.
During my 20 year of interest, I have also used a factory circuit board once, when building an LCR bridge, a factory circuit board was a more correct approach because I cannot make multi-layers at home. All of previous and until today I have exclusively made circuit boards as well.
/sorry OT/
LM3886 is a good example too http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_lm3886_amp.pdf where existing PCB drawing in first page is fully functional. Also, the LM3886 IC is in production and available, and finding genuine should not be a problem.
If it helps, here is a LM3886 PCB made at home with using the fastest - toner transfer method, the dimensions are a little smaller than the original GGG drawing. 75.7x53.5mm are the dimensions of this PCB. Since I don't have a lot of software on this computer I'm using at the moment, unfortunately there is no way to convert this file directly to pdf, but this pdf document without changing it should maintain correct proportions. If someone needs this file, I have it in lay 6 format (it was not an allowed format here therefore I cannot post it to the public).
Attachments
But minimum quantity to buy from TI is huge. Therefore very few shops are willing to sell them.
Cheers!
Cheers!
There are different levels of diy. Im more of a tinkerer. True diy would be to design and craft ones own speaker drivers. People should be free to choose their level. Its not really sad, cause some will still edge their own pcbs if they have the facilities for it.
Cheers!
Cheers!