Yeah, LittleReds is what I have.
That SynSource circuit is like a soft focus on a camera, it smears everything a bit.
Wouldn't even know what to measure though as it doesn't show up on FR or any other measurement I can think of right now. It is however clearly audible.
Another thing I noticed with active speakers is that if you crank them a bit you get that chest-punch feeling at a noticeably lower volume than with passives.
As an aside the LittleReds came prepared for active operation with four posts on the back and a cable set to bypass the internal crossover.
Came across a guy who swore that biwiring greatly improved sound quality.
The only problem is that LittleReds are not biwireable and the extra posts are not connected to anything on the inside until you completely bypass the passive crossover.
I got my dsp yesterday and had a play, it's very good actually. I'm not sure if its for me though yet. I got a t. racks unit from Thomann. Its not bad I'll give it that, much better than the miniDSP I had in term of being transparent but it does ever so slightly filter the sound. I'm being very picky hear but I plugged it in and gain matched with the source. Swapped back and forth using headphones with no adjustment on dsp other than level match. Used some ruthlessly revealing headphones and swapped between it and line level and I found there is ever so slightly a minutus amount of detail difference. It could be the extra cables involved even but it's there. And me being a detail freak as well I not sure if I like it. Apart from that the unit is a good one and control when you start to delve into that side it actually really good. So Now what?
I am also a detail freak; that's why I spend so much time trying to perfect my passive crossovers. I am very satisfied with my current mid-band arrangement. This is very atypical for sure; I have a Mark Audio Pluvia 7PHD in parallel with a SB Satori MR16 midrange. This is a great combination; they supplement and complement each other very well. I imagine any very high end mid range driver won't sound much better, if at all.
I know this thread was supposedly about best driver for a sealed box but it has evolved as things have gone on. Not sure what to do now. As much as DSP is a great idea if its taking away before the desired results are applied its kind of defeating the object imo. As much as you can tailor DSP easily to perfection (or have great control easy anyway) if tonal accuracy is the priority its a better deal, but if you want every last drop of what's coming from source as well it might be two steps forward one step back.
What else is there though? I know I have old epos speakers here I use regularly which have no/minimum crossovers and perhaps that's why I like them. The only trouble is those units were designed to roll off smoothly and work with each other, and I supposed the box is also form of crossover and is tuned to the speaker. I could try their approach with just a capacitor for protection on the tweeter, and seen as I'm just playing files from a PC these days use the soundcards graphic equalizer to balance the sound as best I can and integrate those drive units. As I haven't loved this DSP in the bench test this might be my next attempt even if its unorthodox. What I could do with is a sound card with a nice 30 band eq instead of the 10 I have now
What else is there though? I know I have old epos speakers here I use regularly which have no/minimum crossovers and perhaps that's why I like them. The only trouble is those units were designed to roll off smoothly and work with each other, and I supposed the box is also form of crossover and is tuned to the speaker. I could try their approach with just a capacitor for protection on the tweeter, and seen as I'm just playing files from a PC these days use the soundcards graphic equalizer to balance the sound as best I can and integrate those drive units. As I haven't loved this DSP in the bench test this might be my next attempt even if its unorthodox. What I could do with is a sound card with a nice 30 band eq instead of the 10 I have now
I have a couple of BSS FDS360 in which I swapped the opamps for OPA2134.
Reason for the opamp swap was that I bought them separately s/h and could never get the stereo balance right between them. When I opened them up one was populated with TL072 and the other with LF353. So when I came across a tube of 50 non-RoHS compliant OPA2134 at the ludicrously low price of around £1 a piece I got them and the balance problem was solved.
Reason for the opamp swap was that I bought them separately s/h and could never get the stereo balance right between them. When I opened them up one was populated with TL072 and the other with LF353. So when I came across a tube of 50 non-RoHS compliant OPA2134 at the ludicrously low price of around £1 a piece I got them and the balance problem was solved.
Early impressions of the sph 130 are very good. I'm one who believes in letting drivers wear in a little before drawing conclusions (or perhaps it is hearing just adjusting, who knows ) but all the same its a nice driver so far and I feel it will get even better.
I think I've achieved my objectives anyway which was to build some low cost mini monitors along the lines of the BBC design, yet lean more toward more modern ProAc and Harbeth variants. Maybe I will try a LS3/5A one day with legit B110 and T27s but for now I really feel I don't have to. I think both have got me two flavours of what I was looking for, and perhaps better. The ProAc Tab 10s use a Scanspeak tweeter that I do really like but I'm not overly keen on, I do prefer the D2010 when used in their other models anyway which I've used. I like the way both have turned out though. Had big plans for going active in the one hence the bi-wire terminals but it never really worked out for a number of reasons, so they both have fairly simple crossovers, decent builds and good drivers. I've made some eq freq tweaks at the source side to suit each speaker when in use as it all comes from a PC these days and both are sounding really good to my ears so far.
I just wish I took more time with the cabinets now. The build is fine but finish is a little bit ropey (up close) especially the plywood metal dome/130s. I might just slowly make more cabinets and take my time this time. I was all excited on the first attempt to get them going. I usually just buy and sell all the time not make my own
This site has been great though and thanks for all the inspiration and help along the way to those who chipped in.
) but all the same its a nice driver so far and I feel it will get even better. I think I've achieved my objectives anyway which was to build some low cost mini monitors along the lines of the BBC design, yet lean more toward more modern ProAc and Harbeth variants. Maybe I will try a LS3/5A one day with legit B110 and T27s but for now I really feel I don't have to. I think both have got me two flavours of what I was looking for, and perhaps better. The ProAc Tab 10s use a Scanspeak tweeter that I do really like but I'm not overly keen on, I do prefer the D2010 when used in their other models anyway which I've used. I like the way both have turned out though. Had big plans for going active in the one hence the bi-wire terminals but it never really worked out for a number of reasons, so they both have fairly simple crossovers, decent builds and good drivers. I've made some eq freq tweaks at the source side to suit each speaker when in use as it all comes from a PC these days and both are sounding really good to my ears so far.
I just wish I took more time with the cabinets now. The build is fine but finish is a little bit ropey (up close) especially the plywood metal dome/130s. I might just slowly make more cabinets and take my time this time. I was all excited on the first attempt to get them going. I usually just buy and sell all the time not make my own
This site has been great though and thanks for all the inspiration and help along the way to those who chipped in.
Thanks very much XRK
I'll make more of an effort next time with the finish and not get so excited in just getting to the end, its all a learning curve, trial and error.
Thanks very much XRK
I'll make more of an effort next time with the finish and not get so excited in just getting to the end, its all a learning curve, trial and error.
I’m going to have my cabinet maker make me some nice BB boxes with beech battens. I heard original in-house BBC boxes were 9mm all around vs 12mm side walls and 9mm front. I’m going to make mine with flush mounted front drivers though as my Xo is based on that. Should look great.
Yes I am aware of that that's why I'm not really keen on passing too much judgement yet.
I know the feeling. As the speakers have turned out now I only wish I had perhaps put a little more effort into the really fine end result finish. They look great in photos but they don't have that factory finish you expect from new bought pairs. And the thing is I could have finished them better if I had taken a bit more time. Even some of the tools I used to construct them were very primitive and I've since got better things that could have done it. None the less it was a learning thing also
The MDF ones I'm fine with but the ply I am contemplating making another set of boxes, but then again they are solidly made, its just not impeccably finished, but then again they are my first set so I might just keep them as is warts and all yet It's very early to say yet as both speakers haven't had much time but I have been swapping speakers over quite a bit comparing and contrasting. Even though neither have had much break in time I do think I am liking the SPH130 model a bit more and that was hard for me to say as the 135 were performing brilliantly until I compared. Its a bit comparing apples and oranges as we have an MDF cabinet vs a Plywood, plus a polypropylene/soft dome (but one of my favourite soft domes actually that sounds more metallic than it does smooth) vs a paper driver and a metal dome tweeter. I am really impressed with the 130 package though, I imagined it was going to be just another speaker which would not really get close to what the 135tc/D2010 would do, as the D2010s alone cost nearly as much as the whole of the other build, but to my surprise I think its stealing the show at the moment. They are different sounds but both really good. But I am really impressed with the 130 I think overall for me it is my preference, personally I think the midrange and low end is superb so far and possibly better than the 135TC.
I would like to know as well. I tried some soft dome Seas just recently they were a different type than the ones used in the response but more like the ones in PMC models based on the Sonolex. They were really good actually but I remember the type used in the response would be interest to know what those were.
It would be interesting to know how much you get a set made up for, and I cant see it being much cheaper than the Moldova ones on eBay, but I could be wrong, and those are all ready to go with cut outs as well for a perfect set of LS3/5A clones.
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The Moldova ones certainly are a great deal and I have been tempted a few times. I don’t have the correct drivers for that box so would need to redo the baffle. Are those Moldova boxes made with BB or MDF? It might be worth it to get a set and just modify or make a new baffle plate. I will be front mounting with a custom pincushion bezel rebate. Also, I might make the box a bit deeper for more volume to help the bass a bit. Maybe 8.5in deep vs 6.5in deep. Depth is not a big deal for me.
They are BB ply I believe but I could be wrong. I'm not sure if using ply is such a big deal tho, MDF seems to be just as good if you ask me and cheaper.