Early alnico magnet version, perhaps; H or J would be ferrite. It would likely have the same polarity issue.
Sensitivity: 101 dB, YIKES!
[That sucker will play STUPID loud....]
STUPID loud is a good way to put it. Like I said, my ears are ringing. I guess the stupid thing is for a fifty-something musician with tinnitus to even have this amount of power at his fingertips.
But the nice thing is that it sounds really good at low levels too, it's not one of those speakers that need to be barking before they sound good.
The next time I fool around with it, I'll do the battery check to be sure about the polarity, but I agree, it's probably the same.
Just thought I would chime in and add that I called it "Brociner" horns because someone else had a thread and called it that also.
After much research it has been determined that they are just Jensen backloaded corner horns.
I have yet to get new baffle boards made for mine. I have JBL D131 12" drivers reconed with 2202 cones (my cabs are 27" tall). I hope to have mine up and running in the fall.
Too many other projects at this time to complete.
Regards, Ron
After much research it has been determined that they are just Jensen backloaded corner horns.
I have yet to get new baffle boards made for mine. I have JBL D131 12" drivers reconed with 2202 cones (my cabs are 27" tall). I hope to have mine up and running in the fall.
Too many other projects at this time to complete.
Regards, Ron
Greetings Wilbur just dropping a line to say I have been really enjoying this thread.I will be shortly undertaking my own mono horn journey and this thread has been inspiring. Zilch your ace. I will be pm ing you about your boards and I've been a long time admirer and lurker of the econowave thread. Looking fwd to seeing the conclusion but enjoying the journey
cheers fergs
cheers fergs
I'm back from two weeks in beautiful Wyoming, and ready to go to the next phase with this beast with an all-in-one baffle.
So, the question is where do I put the cutouts for the two drivers?
The original baffle measures 29 1/2 " H x 18 1/4 W. The screw holes for mounting to the cabinet are about 1/2 " from the top and bottom.
Next question: the original baffle has the cutout for the woofer, and the outside edge of the cutout has been cut with a router so that the speaker is maybe 1/4" closer to the front than if it were just mounted flat on the rear of the baffle. I don't own a router--will it make a big difference if I just cut out the hole for the woofer? I'm on the fence as to whether or not I should try to do this. I have a jigsaw, but no experience with it.
Thanks again. Zilch, we'll be fine tuning the XO as well. I think I had one resistor or a capacitor wrong... Ha, I'll have to go back and re-read the thread to remember.
Also, due to popular demand, I'm going to rearrange things to finally see how the beast sounds when tucked into the corner of the room. Should be interesting.
So, the question is where do I put the cutouts for the two drivers?
The original baffle measures 29 1/2 " H x 18 1/4 W. The screw holes for mounting to the cabinet are about 1/2 " from the top and bottom.
Next question: the original baffle has the cutout for the woofer, and the outside edge of the cutout has been cut with a router so that the speaker is maybe 1/4" closer to the front than if it were just mounted flat on the rear of the baffle. I don't own a router--will it make a big difference if I just cut out the hole for the woofer? I'm on the fence as to whether or not I should try to do this. I have a jigsaw, but no experience with it.
Thanks again. Zilch, we'll be fine tuning the XO as well. I think I had one resistor or a capacitor wrong... Ha, I'll have to go back and re-read the thread to remember.
Also, due to popular demand, I'm going to rearrange things to finally see how the beast sounds when tucked into the corner of the room. Should be interesting.
Paging Mr. Zilch
Originally Posted by Wilberforce
Zilch, one thing I noticed is that the parts list you enclosed with the PCB specified a different R2 resistor, a 12.5 ohm. I had already ordered the parts from this page you posted in this thread: http://home.comcast.net/~dnewma04/EconowaveBoM.htm
So I have a 30 ohm resistor in there. I know that has something to do with the HF side. Should I change it?
I poked around that thread but couldn't find the info. What do you recommend?
Upon further listening, it seems that the HF is pulled back a bit too much. I've got the L-Pad all the way open, and on some recordings I could stand a wee more high end.
Originally Posted by Wilberforce
Zilch, one thing I noticed is that the parts list you enclosed with the PCB specified a different R2 resistor, a 12.5 ohm. I had already ordered the parts from this page you posted in this thread: http://home.comcast.net/~dnewma04/EconowaveBoM.htm
So I have a 30 ohm resistor in there. I know that has something to do with the HF side. Should I change it?
I poked around that thread but couldn't find the info. What do you recommend?
Upon further listening, it seems that the HF is pulled back a bit too much. I've got the L-Pad all the way open, and on some recordings I could stand a wee more high end.
The parts list in that link is for the standard EconoWave highpass. You need the high-efficiency variant for use with that woofer.
Get the parts I specified on the list I enclosed with your PC board and swap them in. We're talking a couple of bucks here for what I found to be appropriate.
I don't have a copy of the parts list I sent you. Reproduce it here for the record, please, so we're on the same page with that....
Get the parts I specified on the list I enclosed with your PC board and swap them in. We're talking a couple of bucks here for what I found to be appropriate.
I don't have a copy of the parts list I sent you. Reproduce it here for the record, please, so we're on the same page with that....
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The parts list in that link is for the standard EconoWave highpass. You need the high-efficiency variant for use with that woofer.
Get the parts I specified on the list I enclosed with your PC board and swap them in. We're talking a couple of bucks here for what I found to be appropriate.
I don't have a copy of the parts list I sent you. Reproduce it here for the record, please, so we're on the same page with that....
Yeah, I placed my order from that link before the PCB and your instructions arrived. I think there's just two different parts, R2 and C3. Here is the list you sent me:
L1 = 255-040
L2 = 266-552
C1 = 027-422
C2 = 027-430
C3 = 027-412
R1 = 004-16
R2 = 004-12.5*
LP1 = 260-255
Terminals = 091-1247
*Non-standard for the driver/waveguide combo.
I'll get those parts ordered and set it straight. Thanks again.
Hi Dan, it still hasn't gotten into the corner yet--I still have to re-arrange a bunch of stuff that's in the only available corner in the room. I'm going to try to do that tomorrow.
So have you moved it into the corner, enquiring minds want to know the diff.
cheers fergs
p.s. currently tossing up btw this and a University Classic corner horn for my mono setup
Due to popular demand, I moved it into the corner this morning. It's across the room from all the other gear, so the source is just an iPod (but with high quality 320 mp3s).
Man! it sounds great! Bass response is definitely improved and fuller. And Dan, the high end doesn't diminish in the corner, if anything there seems to be more of it. All this is subjective of course, I don't have any measuring gear, but this setup just gets better all of the time. The new cap and resistor have been shipped from parts express, so in a few days, I'll be able to swap those in.
I may just leave it in the corner--it fills the whole room with sound. Good thing the walls in this building are thick!
Next step is the all in one baffle. I flunked Wood Shop, so I'm hunting for a local cabinet maker that can do it for me. At the same time, I'm going to get a quote from him on building me another one of these monsters.
The proper R2 and C3 arrived today, and I wasted no time popping them in.
So that's what it's supposed to sound like! Wow. Certainly no lack of high end now, I've got the L-pad dialed back to about 11:00.
This setup is ridiculously good--it handles any kind of music I throw at it. Classical music especially sounds wonderful, it's so natural sounding, big and clean. The low end is impressive without being in the slightest bit boomy or over exaggerated. The mids are lush and the high end clean and transparent. I've been going through all kinds of music from the Beatles mono remasters to Michael Jackson and Stevie Wonder to the Stones. It all sounds great.
Two of these hooked up to my Sherwood S-5000 II would be insane. It's almost too good for a mono rig. Thanks again, everyone, for all of your help. I'll post more pics when I get the new all-in-one baffle installed, but that might take me a while.
So that's what it's supposed to sound like! Wow. Certainly no lack of high end now, I've got the L-pad dialed back to about 11:00.
This setup is ridiculously good--it handles any kind of music I throw at it. Classical music especially sounds wonderful, it's so natural sounding, big and clean. The low end is impressive without being in the slightest bit boomy or over exaggerated. The mids are lush and the high end clean and transparent. I've been going through all kinds of music from the Beatles mono remasters to Michael Jackson and Stevie Wonder to the Stones. It all sounds great.
Two of these hooked up to my Sherwood S-5000 II would be insane. It's almost too good for a mono rig. Thanks again, everyone, for all of your help. I'll post more pics when I get the new all-in-one baffle installed, but that might take me a while.
Good to hear, nothing like horn bass, then again nothing like ob bass. I'm getting very strong opposition to the university classic so it looks like it might be the jensen, I was hoping to try front loaded as opposed to rear loaded but it sounds like the jensen with a modern wave guide is the way to go. Thanks again for sharing and look fwd to the next installment. Sounds like you need to sit down and dosome serious listening. Enjoy
cheers fergs
cheers fergs
We're not world class, maybe, but we do get 'er done.
[How much have you invested in making this happen?
Cabinet = $50 Craigslist find
JBL 2220 = $50.50 (incl. shipping)
XO = $62 (approx.)
10 x 14 Waveguide = $14
Selenium driver = FREE (Generous mysterious benefactor from this site)
$176.50 total. Not too shabby. When I go to replicate it for stereo, it'll cost more than that just for the cab.
It sounds like I spent thousands.
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