No I did not.
I've since measured the resistance on the test leads and they come in at 0.3 ohm. So adjusting for that the polyswitches would now measure at 1.9 ohm and 1.5 ohm.
I purchased a soldering iron and other related items. I jumped one of the polyswitches by soldering a bare copper wire between the two polyswitch solder points on the back of one of the crossovers. I left the other crossover untouched.
I then proceeded to test the crossovers, tweeters, and other drivers. What I found was surprising, and I'm thinking the results had something to do with the crossovers and speakers being pulled out of the speaker boxes just laid out on the floor.
First, both crossovers sounded the same for every situation, but different speakers had their own characteristics.
When the original tweeters were connected on their own they had the same sound characteristics even when swapped. The original tweeters both still had their muffled like sound, with one being slightly more muffled than the other. They measure at 4.6 ohm.
When the new test tweeters were connected on their own they had the same sound characteristics even when swapped. The new test tweeters played at a higher volume and were definitely clearer with no muffle like sound. They measure at 3.5 ohm.
I then decided to connect all the drivers; tweeters, midranges, and woofers to the crossovers and test the sound. I swapped the tweeters, also mixing and matching the original ones and new ones, to try every possible combination. This is where the surprise came about.
The overall sound seemed much more balanced in general, and the severe muddiness was gone. This was the case using the original tweeters and using the new test tweeters, but I could still tell that the original tweeters suffered their own muffled sound with one being slightly worse than the other. The new test tweeters sounded good, their level pretty much matching the other drivers. Based on these observations it would seem that the crossovers might actually be fine, but it is in fact the original tweeters that need to be replaced.
But, there's also something more. Since the overall sound was much more balanced during the test, it leads me to believe that had something to do with the crossovers and drivers being pulled from the speaker box and just layed out on the floor for testing. That the acoustics from the box might be a significant cause for the muddy sound that I've been getting, amplifying the lower end frequencies which has been drowning out the higher end. That when combined with the original tweeters and their own muffled sound issues created the overall severe muddiness situation.
I'm curious about what your thoughts might be @Galu and @AllenB
I then proceeded to test the crossovers, tweeters, and other drivers. What I found was surprising, and I'm thinking the results had something to do with the crossovers and speakers being pulled out of the speaker boxes just laid out on the floor.
First, both crossovers sounded the same for every situation, but different speakers had their own characteristics.
When the original tweeters were connected on their own they had the same sound characteristics even when swapped. The original tweeters both still had their muffled like sound, with one being slightly more muffled than the other. They measure at 4.6 ohm.
When the new test tweeters were connected on their own they had the same sound characteristics even when swapped. The new test tweeters played at a higher volume and were definitely clearer with no muffle like sound. They measure at 3.5 ohm.
I then decided to connect all the drivers; tweeters, midranges, and woofers to the crossovers and test the sound. I swapped the tweeters, also mixing and matching the original ones and new ones, to try every possible combination. This is where the surprise came about.
The overall sound seemed much more balanced in general, and the severe muddiness was gone. This was the case using the original tweeters and using the new test tweeters, but I could still tell that the original tweeters suffered their own muffled sound with one being slightly worse than the other. The new test tweeters sounded good, their level pretty much matching the other drivers. Based on these observations it would seem that the crossovers might actually be fine, but it is in fact the original tweeters that need to be replaced.
But, there's also something more. Since the overall sound was much more balanced during the test, it leads me to believe that had something to do with the crossovers and drivers being pulled from the speaker box and just layed out on the floor for testing. That the acoustics from the box might be a significant cause for the muddy sound that I've been getting, amplifying the lower end frequencies which has been drowning out the higher end. That when combined with the original tweeters and their own muffled sound issues created the overall severe muddiness situation.
I'm curious about what your thoughts might be @Galu and @AllenB
You are introducing too many variables into the mix at this stage of the investigation.
We need to focus on one variable at a time.
Are you saying that shorting out a polyswitch did, or did not, increase the volume of its associated tweeter?
We need to focus on one variable at a time.
Are you saying that shorting out a polyswitch did, or did not, increase the volume of its associated tweeter?
P.S. If the bass frequencies are too prominent, then try plugging the bass reflex ports with foam, or even a pair of old socks.
Also try moving the speakers further away from the rear wall of the listening room.
Also try moving the speakers further away from the rear wall of the listening room.
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I was thinking of doing this once I put back in the crossovers and speakers once the testing is completed.
My house is made of concrete will no sound absorbing material on the walls and ceiling so I've also thought that most likely has contributed to the overabundance of bass. Though I haven't had this issue with the soundbar and subwoofer that is connected to the TV.
OK, if I read you correctly, the crossovers are fine, but the original tweeters are not.
I'd experiment with plugging the bass ports. I see there are two in each enclosure, so you can compare the effect of plugging one with the effect of plugging two.
I'd experiment with plugging the bass ports. I see there are two in each enclosure, so you can compare the effect of plugging one with the effect of plugging two.
One other thing to check is the polarity of the midrange and treble drivers with respect to that of the bass driver.
Are the + and - terminals of the tweeter and midrange connected in opposite polarity to the woofer's terminals, as shown in my generic Wharfedale crossover diagram?
Are the + and - terminals of the tweeter and midrange connected in opposite polarity to the woofer's terminals, as shown in my generic Wharfedale crossover diagram?
I'll have to inspect the crossover and wiring to check on the polarity. I haven't tried making a diagram of the crossover yet so it's not something I've noticed. I just connected the speakers same as how it was originally based on the photos I took before pulling everything apart.
I'm open to any other suggestions of things to inspect or test before I start to put the speakers back together, might as well do it now while I can easily.
Smart move in making a photographic note of how those five pairs of wires connect to the drivers and to the enclosure terminals. You have no doubt connected everything together correctly.
Two pairs of wires will go to the biwire terminals on the enclosure, and each of the remaining three pairs goes to a driver.
The crossover is simply split in two to allow for biwiring, so concentrate on the two pairs of wires going to the biwire terminals.
1. The woofer section of the crossover will be connected to the lower enclosure terminals (with + terminal on woofer matching + terminal on enclosure).
2. The midrange and tweeter section of the crossover will be connected to the upper enclosure terminals. As an experiment, you can try reversing the connections at the upper enclosure terminals to see how that affects the clarity.
Two pairs of wires will go to the biwire terminals on the enclosure, and each of the remaining three pairs goes to a driver.
The crossover is simply split in two to allow for biwiring, so concentrate on the two pairs of wires going to the biwire terminals.
1. The woofer section of the crossover will be connected to the lower enclosure terminals (with + terminal on woofer matching + terminal on enclosure).
2. The midrange and tweeter section of the crossover will be connected to the upper enclosure terminals. As an experiment, you can try reversing the connections at the upper enclosure terminals to see how that affects the clarity.
I'll do that, it'll be interesting to see how changing the polarity of the drivers will affect the clarity. This is something I'll have to do my research on in order to get a better grasp of the reason behind it all.
Now since I know that the original tweeters need to be replaced, and given that I might have a tough time finding the original ones, I'm wondering what would be a good choice of replacement tweeters. The new test tweeters I bought aren't something I intend to use permanently.
Attachments
You could supply the old tweeter's faceplate diameter and mounting hole diameter to help narrow down the search for a replacement.
To verify polarity you may want to take measurements with a microphone. To replace the tweeters you might also want to measure with a microphone.
I still think that the polyswitches have been permanently damaged, and the fact that they now measure different resistances only reinforces that.
A likely value of a fresh tweeter polyswitch in your speaker system would be in the region of 0.2 ohm to 0.4 ohm.
When overloaded, the polyswitch resistance goes very high to protect the tweeter, but returns to normal when the device cools.
However, after an extended period of overload, the polyswitch resistance will not return to normal, but ends up at around 4 times the normal value.
That information would explain the 1.9 ohm and 1.5 ohm readings you are getting with your polyswitches.
The original tweeters are said to have a "dipole dispersion characteristic" which serves to reduce microphone feedback in PA or performance applications.
It seems you would be best to replace like for like. You could try contacting Wharfedale International Ltd. at Huntingdon.
Wharfedale; IAG House, 13/14 Glebe Road. PE29 7DL + 44 (0)1480 452561 ; https://www.wharfedale.co.uk
You'd have to ask Wharfedale! 😀
P.S. The information, including a dispersion diagram, is given in the KH Series flier to which I linked earlier.
It could well be a load of twaddle! 😉
P.S. The information, including a dispersion diagram, is given in the KH Series flier to which I linked earlier.
It could well be a load of twaddle! 😉
