I measured with imperial measuring tape so the measurements might be off my a millimeter or two from conversion and possibly if they seem odd.
Original Tweeter Diameter > 3 3/4" = 95mm
Mounting Hole Diameter > 3 7/8" = 98mm
I did some research and it seems that there are several options for 94mm tweeters, not so much for 95mm.
I also came across several past threads where you have contributed your knowledge on this subject so my guess is that you already will have choices in mind!
Would I be able to do this with a smartphone using its internal mic and a correct app?
I'm totally willing to just remove both polyswitches then, and just leave wire jumpers in there places.
The current wire jumper I have soldered on is located on the back of the crossover board which will be a problem when reinstalling the crossovers since they attach directly flush to the cabinet. Because of this if I'm permanently going to leave the jumpers installed I'll have to solder them onto the front of the crossover board where it's quite busy in the area, and due to my limited soldering skills I will most likely need me to remove the polyswitches in order to do a good job.
If that sounds fine then I'll do it.
I tired contacted them via email weeks ago and have had no response.
I also contacted the local distributor here and they responded almost instantly and told me the speaker are out of the production and they don't have any replacement parts for them.
I think if I want replacement original tweeters then I'll have to find used ones.
Yes, both original tweeters measure at 4.6 ohm. Possibly there might be a 0.1 difference but that I would attribute to the multimeter.
Checking the ferrofluid and repairing the original tweeters is something I'm not willing to do due to my own limited knowledge and free time available.
So it's either to find used original replacements, or new aftermarket replacements.
Are the temporary tweeters loud enough.. what's their sensitivity.. are there resistors in the tweeter crossover?
Photos supplied show a 2.7 ohm ceramic resistor which appears to be in series with the polyswitch.
Yes, they seem to match the the other drivers well. But, this is with them out of the cabinets. Once installed I think they won't sound as good since I've already tested them with the other drivers in the cabinet and the overall sound was muddy, but maybe it'll different once installed again with the polyswitches jumped.
Their sensitivity as I tested is 3.5 ohm.
96 mm is a known faceplate diameter, but there will be a possibility of installing a larger diameter tweeter.
The KH-2110 loudspeaker has a high 90dB (1W@1m) sensitivity so we need to keep that in mind while searching for a tweeter replacement.
The tweeter crossover point is 3,500 Hz, apparently with a 12dB/octave slope. The 1" soft dome tweeter's DCR of 4.6 ohm indicates a 6 ohm nominal impedance.
The KH-2110 loudspeaker has a high 90dB (1W@1m) sensitivity so we need to keep that in mind while searching for a tweeter replacement.
The tweeter crossover point is 3,500 Hz, apparently with a 12dB/octave slope. The 1" soft dome tweeter's DCR of 4.6 ohm indicates a 6 ohm nominal impedance.
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There's a slight margin of error with the measurements since I rounded to the nearest whole number when converting the imperial units to metric.
The difference when the tweeters are installed isn't much.
What I'll do is take some photos tomorrow of the tweeters and with them installed.
I suggest you buy a ruler graduated in mm and show it measuring the faceplate and mounting hole diameter in your photographs.
I understand now - by mounting hole diameter, I meant the diameter of the enclosure cut out, not the diameter of the rebate.
It would appear to be a 96 mm tweeter.
It would appear to be a 96 mm tweeter.
Sensitivity could be explained as how loud they go for a given amount of signal driving them. If you get a tweeter with too low a sensitivity it will be too quiet compared to the mids. This appears to be something you've called 'muddy', and you want to avoid this. You can't measure it with your meter, you can find it on the datasheet.
You can do the test without woofer playing, just remove the jumper bars from the terminals and connect the amplifier to the upper speaker binding posts.